2003 Discovering Britain & Ireland – Day 6

YORK TO EDINBURGH – on to Bonnie Scotland

Friday – up early of course to get the bag outside the room for pick up and then head downstairs for breakfast that was a self serve big English buffet. YAY!!!!!!!

Starting with juice with fresh fruit & yoghurt closely followed by lots of bacon, tomato, sausage, mushrooms & toast and coffee.

The sensible person in me decides to give the black pudding a miss (yuk!) Whilst eating my breakfast I am amazed to watch how some people on this tour stash a large amount of ‘keepable’ food away in their bags. I would presume that they think this will save them having to spend money and buy lunch later in the day.

After breakfast back up to the room to collect my gear – the lift in the hotel is still so slow, so lugging the cabin bag, shoulder bag and camera bags I decide it is quicker to walk down the stairs that way I won’t miss the bus!  Leaving York we head north-west.

RhegedWe call into a place called Rheged. It is a huge shopping Mall built into the countryside and you have to see it to believe it.  It is near the town of Penrith in Cumbria.

This place is incredible and it is a great opportunity to  walk around and stretch our legs. You wouldn’t even know it was there. Inside the Mall there is a waterfall, lots of shops, a theatre, restaurants – all hidden away.  What an incredible place.

Back on the coach and we travel through the Lakes District – so pretty –

The area consists of a number of lakes, innumerable mountain tarns and streams, and a range of mountains rising to a height of over 900 metres in four points.   The Lake District extends 50km from north to south and 40km from east to west. Lowlands occupy the northern, southern and eastern borders of the county, with agriculture being very important, in particular sheep raising and dairying.

The district became famous after a group of British poets made it their home at the beginning of the 19th century. The most famous of  these poets are William Wordsworth, Samuel Taylor Coleridge and Robert Southey.   These poets were described by critics as the Lake School of poetry and from then on they were referred to as the Lake Poets.

Through Cumbria and we cross the Scottish border on the far west side of Scotland.

We arrive in Gretna Green for lunch. This is where people from England used to elope when they wanted to get married but did not have permission from their parents.

We are lucky (?)  enough to be here when there is a wedding at the famous Blacksmith’s Shop – see photo left – and we get some wedding cake (I am sure it is done up for the tourists). The groom doesn’t look too pleased.  I am sure it is all put on for the tourists – it is the cynic in me. Pipers (again typically touristy) but great none the less.

There are lots of tourists falling over themselves to have their photo taken with the piper. Waiting, waiting for the piper to be by himself and playing his bagpipes to get some shots. Done and now to explore some more.  Outside of the real shop there is a rather strange looking metal sculpture in the courtyard.

I think it has something to do with William Wallace, who we all know as Braveheart – NOT Mel Gibson!  If anyone can shed some light on this it would be good.

In the parking area there are lots and lots of coaches all heading for Edinburgh and the Tattoo. Decide on a cheese and chutney sandwich and coke for lunch. Very sparse and not overly exciting but I was hungry and it served the purpose.

Back on the road – we pass Lockerbie – site of the disastrous plane explosion and crash in December 1988 – turn a little bit north-east and arrive in Edinburgh. Kenny gives us a bit of a quick coach tour of Edinburgh.

We are going on a proper guided tour tomorrow with a local guide – and then on to our lodgings – Edinburgh Marriott Hotel.

This hotel is a fair distance from Edinburgh (bummer) and nothing against the previous hotels but after the last two nights this is sheer luxury.  I have a large room, large bath and even larger Queen size bed.

Complimentary shortbreads on the pillows and hot chocolate sachets as well as coffee and tea. The décor leaves a bit to be desired but oh well, you can’t have everything.

As we have time to ourselves for a couple of hours I make myself a nice big bubbly bath and indulge with some hot chocolate as I laze in the water and contemplate what has been and what is to come.  Paul has given us a list of 15 optionals for the tour ranging in price from $ – $$$ and after huffing should I or shouldn’t I – I decide to do the lot.  My good old trusty Visa card comes in handy but I look on the positive side – more frequent flyer points. I’ll worry about the money when I get home. Tonight gets the ball rolling –

#1 OPTIONAL: Pre-Tattoo Dinner at a local pub – Merchants. Cost ₤24.00

Tonight is the night we attend the Tattoo so most of us opt for this option to have dinner. We are guided to an old Edinburgh pub – Merchants.  This pub is hidden away underneath the George IV bridge in the heart of Edinburgh’s old town and the place is packed. There is no room anywhere and we are squeezed in like sardines. They must love this time of year.

Our dinner consists of – Salmon Mousse with Dill Cream (yum); Angus Beef with Veggies (yum, yum) and Cranachan (cranakin) for dessert. This apparently is a traditional Scottish dessert. Loads of fresh raspberries covered with a mousse type cream with oatmeal and raspberry syrup through it plus a good slurp of Scotch whisky (yum – hic). I feel the weight going on!!!

The pub is showing signs of age when, after deciding to visit the rest room prior to leaving, we have to fill a bucket with water from the taps and use this to flush the toilet!  Apparently the poor old place cannot handle the large amount of diners and the system has collapsed.

You are given the water filled bucket by the person in front and then after doing what you had to do and emptying the bucket you then fill it up again for the person after you. Talk about an interesting night.

To The TattooAfter our dinner and loo experience we head up to the Edinburgh Royal Military Tattoo.  Us along with 10 million other tourists and locals all heading for Edinburgh Castle.  The photo on the right is of the street that leads up to the castle and it is jam packed as you can see.

The street is known as The Royal Mile and it is very narrow and very much uphill.

When we get to the top we stand in a queue on the narrow footpaths and wait for the gates to open. Coaches with the Tattoo participants go past us up to the castle and we all give a big wave and a rousing cheer. Programmes are ₤5.00 – got to have one. The show is starting at 9pm and they start to move us at ¼ past 8.

We have great seats right at the top of the grandstand and about half way along the esplanade. It is not cold –so  I have brought my dirty big coat, hat, gloves and scarf for nothing.  Sitting beside me is a kindly little Asian lady who has a look of ‘I don’t know why I am here’.  Here we go – the Official party comes in and there is a slight pause while they are seated and then the commentator greets us all and asks for cheers when he mentions our country. Of course, the Aussies win the cheering competition.

The massed pipes and drums come through the gateway of the castle and it is breathless. Edinburgh Castle on dusk with pipers – brings a tear to the eyes.

As the sun goes down – the torches around the castle cast an eerie light and the atmosphere is electric. It is great !!!

Unfortunately some of the acts are just that – acts.  I think there should be more traditional pipers and drummers etc – but we cheer everyone. There are the Royal Artillery Flying Gunners and considering how small the space is, they are fabulous with all the ‘death-defying’ tricks they do. Definitely not for the faint-hearted.

There is a group called The Swiss Army Secret Drum Corps. Now I ask you, what can be secret about a drum corp? They are incredible.

A precision US drill team takes to the arena and they are great. Deadly silence, except for the sound of their feet on the esplanade and the clacking of their guns as they swing them around all over the place.

The Aussie participants ‘ The Sth Australian Pipes and Drums’ get a rousing coo-ee from all us ‘Convicts’. Unfortunately they are intermingled with other groups.

A great night – especially the lone piper standing high on top of the castle.

We all cross hands for the singing of Auld Lang Syne – I practically have to accost the little Asian lady to hold her hand – she wonders what I am doing and has a rather nervous smile on her face, but she gets into the mood of things and seems to have enjoyed the night.

Edinburgh Castle at the end of the night – fabulous!  Fireworks overhead at the end – loads and loads of photos – both cameras haven’t stopped. Between taking photos and watching the Tattoo I am feeling rather dizzy.

After everything has finished all us ‘Insights’ fight our way out through the crowds and back to the bus. We are still excited from the night’s events and Edinburgh is still full of people making merry.  When we get back to the hotel I am glad to get into bed and don’t surface until the wake up call.

Highlight of the day : the pipers coming through the gateway at the Tattoo.