OLYMPIA to ATHENS – ready – set – go
Wednesday – what a wonderful nights sleep – everything is so quiet and I could lay here for ages but today is the day to be energetic and physical because I am visiting the site of the ancient Olympic Games at Olympia.
A nice moderate breakfast after the pig out last night and I am packed and waiting for Mr E. It is a wonderful day with lovely blue skies but I am sure that the temperature will climb as the day moves on.
It is a short 10 minute drive to the entrance and as usual Mr E does not come in so armed with cameras and hat, my trusty back pack containing batteries, water, sunscreen etc I am ready. As usual Mr E tells me to take my time, there is no rush – so OK – off I go. It is early so not a lot of tourists although I notice that there are a few early morning groups with their ‘umbrella in the air’ guides so whatever way they go I will head the other way. Gazing over the size of the place I silently think this is going to be split into two parts – maybe three – there is just too much history here to skimp on details. It is huge – you don’t get the size when you see it on the TV – but wait until you get here! More excitement – there are lots of shady trees – what a bonus.
Down into the complex I head and not far from the entrance is the Kronion Thermae. This was a large building complex with many architectural phases and functions.
Over the central court and baths of the Hellenistic period, rooms with impressive mosaics were constructed in Roman times. Unfortunately it was destroyed by an earthquake at the end of the 3rd century AD.
Next door is the Prytaneion (below) – 5th cent BC. It has been restored on several occasions and it was the seat of the dignitaries of the sanctuary.
They were responsible for the sacrifices carried out at the altars. In the interior of the building was also housed the hearth of the Goddess Hestia (the virgin goddess of the hearth, domesticity, family, home and the state and the daughter and firstborn child of Kronos and Rhea) where the sacred and everlasting flame was lit. Here the guests of honour and the visitors feasted when they visited the games.
It is nice and cool standing here in the shade – but the crowds are gathering so time to move on.
Heading further into the complex there are lots of ruins but I don’t know if they are parts of the previous buildings or other ones without names.
Across the pathway is the Palaestra. Dating from the 3rd century BC, it was a square building with an inner central court surrounded by a colonnade and enclosed by roofed areas. These areas were sectioned off into special rooms for undressing, anointing the body with oil, powdering the body with dust, baths etc. It was also a training area for wrestling, boxing and jumping. Philosophers, orators and poets used to give their lectures and communicate their ideas within these precincts.
As you can see there is lots of shade and no tour groups, so I linger for quite some time on a well placed shady seat while my imagination roams around the ruins.
Close by and just across the roadway is The Philippeion, which was erected by Philip II, King of Macedonia after the victory of Chaeroneia in 338 BCE.
Originally there were 18 Ionic columns and inside contained gold and ivory statues of Philip and his family – Alexander the Great, Olympias, Amyntas III and Eurydice I.
Time to venture out of the shade and into the hot sun – down the path is the Temple of Hera.
This is the oldest temple of the Sanctuary and among the best specimens of archaic Doric architecture. It had six columns at the narrow ends and sixteen along the sides. The original wooden columns were replaced by these Roman times the statue of Hermes made by Praxiteles was kept in the inner chamber.
This temple is also where the Olympic Flame is lit every four years.
On the other side of the road is the Nymphaion built in the 2nd century AD. This was a monumental fountain that collected the waters of a huge aqueduct originating in the nearby mountains.
It was donated by Herodes Atticus and his wife Regilla and consisted of a rectangular basin and also a larger semicircular one. In the niches of the two storey building there were statues of Herodes Atticus and the Emperors Antoninus Pius, Hadrian, Marcus Aurelius and members of their families. I love it when there are boards with plenty of information and what these ruins actually looked like in their heyday. Speaking of which – time to head for the Temple of Zeus.
On the way is the Pelopion. It is a low artificial mound in the centre of Altis where the worship of the hero Pelops took place. Pelops was the king of the city of Pisa in Peloponnesus, in Greek mythology.
His father Tantalus wanted to make an offering to the gods and decided to kill his son; he cut Pelops into pieces, and served him as a stew to the gods. Most gods realised that there was something wrong and did not eat, but Demeter ate the left shoulder. To read what happened next in this interesting tale click here.
The next part of my journey will take us to the Temple of Zeus – – stay with me