2009 North to Alaska – Day 8

CRUISING – even too cold for the whales – – –

Yesterday our beloved Oh Captain told us that if we got up early this morning we would have the possibility of seeing whales, especially orca.  Spoiler alert – Oh Captain lied.

We drag ourselves out of bed at the ungodly hour of around 4.30am – put on every bit of clothing we brought with us and head to the Promenade Deck to scan the horizons in search of our frolicking friends. What makes us think that the whales are going to get up this early is beyond my imagination.

Before I go any further, the lifts on the Volendam have mats which are changed daily by the Stewards to reflect what day it is.  (Refer previous post)  I am sure this is for the Fakers in case they lose track of all time whilst eating their cruise away with the free food! Of course I have to get a photo of this so that you will know exactly what day it is – anyway back to the whales.

Arriving outside on deck we discover that during the night we have taken a wrong turn and arrived somewhere back down south at the Antarctic and any minute I expect to see Mawson’s hut. Some joke eh Oh Captain?  It is freezing.  Even at this early hour the people coming back inside from being at the bow have had enough of the cold and look as if their faces are frozen in a perpetual grimace.

Just inside the door to the deck there is a steward offering hot coffee or chocolate but you have to buy one of the Holland America hot drink containers to get it.

Does everything have to cost something on this boat?  Why can’t they just give it to you?  I am sure they get the containers made in China for about 10 cents each so it would be no great expense and would do wonders for public relations.

Opening the hatch or whatever they call it that leads to the bow the cold hits us. If we thought it was cold before then this is a cracker!  Getting out of a snuggly warm bed for this makes my body scream and both Kylie and Tyler have the ‘you have got to be kidding me’ looks upon their faces but undaunted we press on and it is only the thought of the possibility of seeing a whale that keeps Kylie from turning back and racing down to our cabin.

A chilly breeze – and that is putting is mildly – has sprung up and we make our way to the bow and prime viewing spots.  We stand shivering, holding our cameras at an ever ready angle to snap away once someone yells ‘thar she blows!’  We stand, and stand, and stand with eyes peeled for the slightest ripple on the water. Unfortunately the water remains as calm as a mill pond and Kylie says it is quarter past 5.  Thank you Kylie!

Our faces, hands and bodies are frozen to the point that I am frightened to blow my nose in case it breaks off!  Turning and looking up to the Captain’s Bridge – I am sure they are just rolling about with laughter saying ‘look at all those idiots down there in the cold!’

You would think that one of them at least would come down and offer us a medicinal beverage to stop our innards from freezing.

Okay – this is not funny anymore.  No whales and it is getting colder.  We decide to walk around to get our blood circulating as our fingers and noses are turning blue! Even if a whale did pop it’s head out of the water I doubt if I could move my fingers to take a photo!

Where is all this wildlife we see cavorting across our screens during National Geographic programmes?  Where the bloody hell are they?  Not bloody here!  As Kylie says ‘those buggers live in this weather all year round so why don’t they come up and say hello?’

Still no announcements from Oh Captain to look left or look over there like we were promised – just nothing but the sound of teeth chattering and people flapping their arms and jumping from one foot to the other trying to stay warm.

The sun starts to come up so at least we can get some good photos of that and we also see some fishing boats heading in for safe harbour, I hope they were lucky at their adventures.  About an hour later we decide that all the whales have definitely decided not to show so we head inside for the warmth and some hot food for brekkie.

Arriving in our cabin Kylie heads for the shower to get her circulation going and about 2 hours later we head for The Lido. There is no salmon on the menu – double disappointment for Kylie – but I have some bacon, sausages, hash browns, pineapple juice, fruit and muffins along with a scalding cup of strong coffee!  Hooray I can feel my toes at last and my nose has stopped dripping but that is too much information.

We have decided to do some washing as clothing supplies are running low so whilst waiting for Kylie and Tyler I record some details from the Ship’s Log – –

Position: 51”07.23’N, 128”05.99’W. Pool temp (they are kidding right?) 26.7 degrees celsius. Time is 9.31am; humidity is 78%; air temperature 12 degree celsius. Wind is 23.7 knots from the South East with a force 6 strong breeze.  The sea will be smooth (ha!) with wavelets of 1.5 feet.  Speed 20.8 knots.

An announcement from Oh Captain informs us that we may experience some rough seas later and if you suffer from sea sickness then you should take something now.  Hang on – it just said on the screen that the seas will be smooth.  Oh Captain told us that we were going to pass through the rough seas last night.  Obviously we are off track again!

Someone needs to be on the bridge to stick their head out the window and tell Oh Captain what is going on.  Oh Captain is batting zero.

Tyler is one of those poor unfortunates who suffers from seasickness and he is already reaching for the pills and potions.  Kylie goes back down memory lane advising that she will be OK as she doesn’t get sea sick (famous last words) – I don’t know if I do or don’t so I will just go with the flow!

We decide to go for a stroll around the deck before heading off to do our washing.  We locate the machines and it costs $2 to wash and $1 to dry for each machine.  Don’t they get enough money out of us? Obviously not as they have to allow for all the food the Fakers eat.  It is good that no-one else is here as we are using all the machines.

Tyler decides to stay in the laundry to keep an eye on his socks (it is really warm in there but too claustrophobic for me) and Kylie and I mosey on up back to the cabin.  A little ‘lobster surprise’ from our friend Sunday Sandy.  I wonder if he is related to the stewards in Egypt?

Don’t worry we do take turns in visiting Tyler in the laundry so that he does not feel neglected. Oh Captain is back again telling us we may not make Tracey Arm tomorrow.  Something to do with the currents in the shallows – but we will keep our fingers crossed.  Everything Oh Captain has told us seems to turn out on the negative side.  Oh well, it’s not like we can change our minds and get off so looks like we just have to make the best of it.

Unfortunately the weather has turned really nasty and as Kylie and Tyler return to the cabin with all the washing – Tyler makes a run for the bathroom.  It is not going to be a good afternoon as now Kylie is looking rather green.

Both of them take to their bed but in a while Kylie decides to take her special Alaska Quilt and pillow out onto the deck and the fresh air.  It is really squally (is there such a word?) but our verandah is in a good spot.  The dreaded rough seas have taken their toll on two of the group.

After making sure they are OK and feeling extremely hungry I head up to the Lido to see what food is on offer.  Not a Faker in sight!  I must be the only one still able to walk around.  Amazing.  After putting away a healthy lunch and a cheese and fruit platter (much to the amusement of the catering staff) and still feeling fine I head off, camera in hand to see what mischief awaits.  On deck and no-one.

This is incredible. Here are a few photos – the weather is the pits as you can see – rain and wind – but it is so exhilarating.  Love the salt spray and rain on my face and the wind rushing through my hair – love it – just love it.

Anyway enough of the rain and cold it is back inside for some temporary defrosting. Catch a look at myself in the mirror and I look like the wreck of the Hesperus! Quick visit to the little girls room to make myself look presentable and then it’s back to the Lido for some more coffee and cake and then a look around the inside.

There is a wonderful lit column that goes from the entrance foyer right up to the ceiling (see photo left).  Depending on where you stand – the colours change.  There are lots of fresh flowers and it all does look very grand.

Following is an excerpt from the Holland America overview on the Volendam: The beautiful garden theme of the ms Volendam is reflected in an artful floral motif throughout the ship’s spacious public rooms and elegant staterooms. “Flowers” can be found in abundance in the forms of floral fabrics and tapestries, as well as huge vases of tropical floral arrangements and chrysanthemums.  In addition to fresh flowers throughout the ship, Holland America Line has drawn on its collection of incredible artwork to enhance the interior of the ship’s public spaces.  Everything from pre-Columbian fetishes and sculptures to Renaissance-era fountains imported from Italy are included in its hallway galleries. At the heart of the ship an elegant sculpture by Luciano Vistosi, inspired by the myriad of moods and colors of a kaleidoscope, greets visitors in a soaring three-story atrium.

With no Fakers around I certainly do not have to worry about them popping up in the photos.  Deciding to return to see how the invalids are progressing – Kylie is still asleep on the verandah under her special Alaska quilt and Tyler is still unconscious in the bed, so I head back outside and the stormy seas. 

Still no-one about – the deck chairs are empty but look resplendent on the sea sprayed teak decks (Kodak moment) so I decide to go upstairs to the Crows Nest to just sit, relax and look at the stormy seas.

The Crows Nest is right at the front of the ship and has the most magnificent windows all around. I love stormy seas – there is something about raw nature that is so hypnotic.   About 4.30pm it’s back downstairs to the cabin and they are awake – albeit looking the worse for wear. Oh Captain is back on the intercom and apparently the entire ship is crook (except for me).

He advises that anyone suffering from ‘motion of the ocean’ (chuckle, chuckle) should order some broiled chicken and rice as the weather will be with us for a while longer. Tyler collapses back on the pillows!

I have told Kylie and Tyler that our lifeboat is still there and I know a short cut just in case!  They are not amused.  Some people just don’t have a sense of humour!

Kylie orders the chicken and rice and several pots of strong tea and after devouring her meal she is feeling a bit better so we both decide to leave Tyler to the peace of the cabin and head off.  I am feeling hungry (shock, horror as Kylie just looks at me).

We head back to the Lido and I have some dinner – Kylie has more tea.  The Lido has a few more people now so I don’t feel so obligated to eat all the food by myself!  Kylie says that all the Fakers are down for the count and even the free food cannot tempt them.  Oh so true!

She asks me what have I been doing while they were asleep and I tell her eating, walking, taking photos, eating, walking, taking photos and eating.  She looks at me in disgust!

When we get back to the cabin, Tyler is awake and feeling a tad better so both he and Kylie sit outside on the verandah and enjoy some more tea in the fresh air and the inky blackness of the ocean.  The verandah has been a Godsend for Kylie as she has been able to lie out there in the fresh ocean air instead of being cooped up in a cabin – it has worked miracles.

They both feel a little better now and hopefully after a good night’s sleep will be rearing to go on our Photo Safari when we dock in Juneau tomorrow.

Highlight of the Day: having the boat to myself with the Fakers down and out!