1998 Mystery of History – Day 5

London – beefeaters – beheadings and bridges

Wednesday – today I am off to the Tower of London.  Get out the train map and work out how to get there – on the train at Kilburn – change at Westminster and get the train to Tower Hill.  I am getting to be an expert at this. 

Come out of the station and follow the crowd – it’s not too hard to find the Tower so time to line up and go through the gate.  The feeling of history is incredible and I can’t get over the fact that I am actually walking on the same ground upon which many historical figures have walked.

 HISTORY LESSON : Founded nearly a millennium ago and expanded upon over the centuries since, The Tower has protected, housed, imprisoned and been for many the last sight they saw on Earth.  It has been the seat of British government and the living quarters of monarchs — the site of political intrigue and is the repository of the Crown Jewels.  It housed Elizabeth I when she was imprisoned there by her sister Mary.  It has also housed lions, bears and to this day – flightless ravens, not to mention notorious traitors and famed members of court, lords and ministers, clergymen and knights.

On the left is Tower Green with the Queen’s House and on the right is White Tower and this tower is really the emblem of the Tower of London.

HISTORY LESSON : The White Tower is a fortress of enormous proportions, symbolic of William the Conqueror’s fierce suppression of a newly conquered capital. It is the oldest medieval building at the Tower. 

Construction began in the 1070s and was probably completed by 1100.  Its primary function was to serve as a fortress but it was also designed to provide the king with royal accommodation for his occasional use and to provide the setting for both ceremonial and government functions. However, from the 14th to the 19th century, the White Tower’s main use was as a military storehouse.

Tower Green is the site of the scaffold (far left) where the second wife of Henry VIII – Ann Boleyn – was beheaded, along with many, many others.  Creepy feeling. and makes my neck twitch.

I do the ‘follow the map’ suggested guide and this place is unbelievable.  Up and down little staircases; along Tower walls and into many little interesting rooms.  Photos are allowed inside the Tower except for Waterloo Barracks (centre).  This is where the Crown Jewels are housed and they are breathtaking.

Millions and millions of dollars worth of diamonds and precious jewels set in crowns, sceptres, orbs and other items of royal regalia.  In the special section where these jewels are there is no stopping.  You get on a moving walkway and stay on it until the end but the good thing is you can go around and get on it again and again.

Salt Tower is on the right.  The ground floor of this tower would have been used for storage. Archers would also have stationed here if the Tower was under threat. The upper chamber has many examples of prisoners’ graffiti.  It contains a display showing the different kinds of treatment received by the prisoners who were held here.

This tower is part of Henry III’s late 1230s curtain wall which rings the castle. Built on the fortress’s south-eastern corner, this tower overlooked the river.  Archers could shoot arrows through the arrow-loops in this room. Upstairs was a comfortable chamber with a huge fireplace and decorative window. The tower’s exterior and windows were restored in 1857-8.

Middle Tower (left) is a gatehouse originating between 1275 and 1281. It was principally altered between 1717-1719 when the upper floors were rebuilt and the structure was re-faced in Portland stone.

The entrance passage was originally defended by two portcullises, the grooves of which are still visible inside the archway. The interior contains rare 13th century brickwork and a causeway on its eastern side, which originally contained a third drawbridge, links it to the Byward Tower.

The tower is now used as a residence of one of Yeoman Warders.

The water-gate under St Thomas’s Tower has been known for over 400 years as ‘Traitors’ Gate’ because of the number of prisoners accused of treason who have passed through it. The journey of these prisoners was made by barge along the River Thames and often their journey would take them past London Bridge where the heads of recently executed traitors were displayed on the roof of the stone gate house. The heads were placed on spikes, attached to poles and displayed on the Bridge.

The young and tragic Catherine Howard had to pass the gruesome sight of the head of her lover Thomas Culpepper on her journey to the Tower of London and Traitors Gate. This grisly practice continued until around 1678.

The grounds are immaculate and I hear the story of the ravens which is if they ever leave The Tower the Monarchy will fall.  Hence that is why their wings are clipped and they are fed and encouraged to stay.

Taking loads of photos – I stop for a moment and get some good, kind person to take my photo with the Yeoman Warders – otherwise known as Beefeaters.

They have lots of interesting tales to tell.  So much history – the suit of armour made for Henry VIII – and looking at it he sure must have been a decent size – I pity the horse. Apparently old Henry was so big that he had to be lifted onto the horse!

Walter Raleigh’s room in the Bloody Tower when he was imprisoned; a copy of the Coronation Throne of Edward I and Traitor’s Gate.  So much to see and so little time.  You need at least a full day here or maybe two.  Maybe on the next trip I will come back here and take the tour given by the Tower Keepers.

After walking around here for about 5 hours, it’s time to head over to Tower Bridge which is not very far.   I am a bit disappointed with the tour – but hey what the – if you are in London just do it even if it’s only once in a lifetime.

Part of the tour is that we can walk across the span at the top of the bridge where there are really great views of the Thames and the Tower – so that is good.

Am dead on my feet and I still have to go home and pack.  Tomorrow we leave for Athens!!!! WOW !!!!!!

Point myself in the direction of Tower Hill station and head back home. When I get back to Kylie’s I am dog tired after all the walking – but it was definitely worth the sore legs and feet.

Highlight of the day : Spending time with my new mates – The Beefeaters.