VERSAILLES – sun gods and revolutions
Saturday – another full day excursion, this time we are visiting with Louis XIV at the Chateau de Versailles. It is going to be a big day so I may have to split this post as well. Breakfast of some toast and juice and we are once again on our way to the Metro for our daily dose of train travel. Hopefully it will be a much better experience than we have previously encountered. The weather is kind and it looks as if it will be a lovely day, maybe a bit hot but I am sure we can deal with that.
The train trip to Versailles is comfortable and uneventful and we get to see some of the French countryside. We arrive at Versailles and head to the Visitor Centre where we can buy our tickets instead of lining up when we get there. I stand in the queue while K&T have a look around the rest of the shops. We are told there is a short easy walk to the Palace and as we start off we see it is shaded by large trees and doesn’t seem to be such a task.
The Palace of Versailles is a royal chateau or castle. When the château was built, Versailles was a country village; today, however, it is a wealthy suburb of Paris, some 20 kilometres southwest of the French capital. The court of Versailles was the centre of political power in France from 1682, when Louis XIV moved from Paris, until the royal family was forced to return to the capital in October 1789 after the beginning of the French Revolution.
Arriving at the start of the long, long, long roadway to the Chateau we are greeting by good old Louis himself. Unfortunately behind his impressive statue is an iron structure that resembles whale ribs. We do not find the reason for the strange structure.
Louis XIV, known as Louis the Great or the Sun King, was a monarch of the House of Bourbon who ruled as King of France and Navarre. His reign of 72 years and 110 days is the longest of monarchs of major countries in European history. He became one of the most powerful French monarchs and consolidated a system of absolute monarchical rule in France that endured until the French Revolution.
Walking up the impressive way to the gates of the Palace, we get an idea of the importance of such a place. Imagine the carriages of the well-to-do all coming along here on their way to enjoy the lavishness of this incredible place.
In 1624 Louis XIII ordered the construction of a hunting lodge and eight years later, he began to make enlargements to the château. This structure would become the core of the new palace. In the photo on the right – the building in the centre – Louis’ bedroom was on the top floor which was built so that the windows face the sunrise.
At the end of the impressive carriageway we join the queue and shuffle along on our way. During our shuffle we arrive at these Golden Gates. The golden gate and fence has finally been replaced, more than 200 years after being torn down during the French Revolution. After two years of work, a replica of the original 80m wrought iron and gold leaf gates now graces the entrance to Louis XVI’s former power base.
A total of 100,000 gold leaves have been crafted into the shapes of fleur de lys, crowns, masks of Apollo, cornucopias and the crossed capital Ls representing the Sun King.
With the sun shining, the gates look magnificent and give a glimpse of the extravagance that this place must have enjoyed. There are many people taking photos but they are mindful of others and everyone gets to take a photo that is ‘tourist free’.
Through the security checkout and it is time to discover Versailles for ourselves.
Our first stop when we enter the Palace is the Royal Chapel. We are on what you call the ‘Ground Floor’ and the only place to view the Chapel on this level is through a rather small doorway. Nevertheless, the tourists all seem to be very thoughtful – makes a nice change – and after having a look and taking the customary photos they move aside for the next group. We then progress upstairs where we can get a better view of the Chapel.
The two storey Royal Chapel is designed on the model of the Holy Chapel in Paris. A masterpiece of Jules Hardouin-Mansart, it was finished after his death by his brother-in-law, Robert de Cotte in 1710.
It is dedicated to Saint Louis, patron saint of the Bourbons. The tribune in front was reserved for the King and the Royal Family. Apparently there is to be a recital and we get to hear part of the organ practice session.
We are now on the way to discovering the main rooms of the Palace. The State Apartments (‘Grands Appartements’) is the main attraction inside the palace. These rooms were used mainly for official ceremonies and special balls. At the start are several drawing rooms which are named after Roman gods and goddesses: Venus (the goddess of love and beauty), Diana (goddess of nature, fertility and childbirth), Mars (the god of war), Mercury (the god of trade) and Apollo (the god of music). Apollo has particular significance because he also represents the sun, which was the symbol of Louis XIV (known as the “sun king”). Mercury, Venus and Mars have been chosen because these are the planets which (together with the Earth) are nearest to the sun.
I cannot remember what this room is called. Let’s just call it the ‘Pink Room’. There are many paintings and lots of little items of interest.
The painting on the far left is that of how Versailles was originally planned to look. Bit of a difference to today I assure you. The main focus is on the statue of the monkey riding a goat. Interesting don’t you think?
I do not know what purpose this room had – it is only small so maybe just a sitting room?
Next stop is a ‘Green Room’ then a ‘Red Room’ and by this time I have the brilliant idea that I should be taking photos of the plaques that tell us the name of the room. Unfortunately the crowds of people are rather large and growing so there is no going back.
These rooms are all small – didn’t they believe in having space? So, after the ‘Nameless’ rooms we arrive at The Hercules Room. A Chapel once stood on the site of this room and it is the last of the State Rooms constructed in the palace measuring 18m x 14m x 45m. The Hercules Room connects the Royal Chapel and the North Wing of the palace with the Grand Apartment of the King.
The room was completed in 1736 with a painted ceiling called ‘Apotheosis of Hercules’ and that is how the room got its name.
Apotheosis is the largest ceiling painted on canvas in Europe—480 square meters of surface area. It depicts some 140 figures representing the gods and goddesses of Olympus. They have gathered for the arrival of Hercules after his successful labors raised him to the rank of God. The corners have the Four Princely Virtues: Justice, Fortitude, Constancy, and Courage. These are separated by Cup[ids pointing to the Labors of Hercules. In the center of the ceiling, Hercules arrives at Mount Olympus in his chariot where Jupiter offers his daughter Hebe in marriage. You can also see Mars and Vulcan along with Apollo.
Moving right along – next room is the ‘Abundance Room’ (on the left) which was the former vestibule which housed the ‘ Cabinet of Curiosities’. The ‘Venus’ room (centre) was the main entrance of the Grand Apartment of Louis XIV who you see here dressed as a Roman Emperor. Big ego this one! For evening receptions tables were set up with silver bowls holding fresh and crystallized fruits.
On the right is the ‘Diana’ Room. You most probably have noticed by now how all the rooms are named after Roman Gods and Goddesses as mentioned earlier. Even though the rooms are small in size there is still a feeling of incredible wealth which must have been required to fill them with treasures.
Through the ‘Mars’ room and the ‘Apollo’ room to arrive at the ‘War’ room. This is the former ‘Jupiter’ room which comprises mirrors, precious marbles and gilt bronze trophies and which leads us the to amazing ‘Hall of Mirrors’.
The Grande Galerie (La Grande Galerie in French), as it was called in the 17th century, served daily as a passageway and a waiting and meeting place, frequented by courtiers and the visiting public. ‘Grande’ is such an understatement. It is jaw-droppingly incredible. The wealth of Louis is demonstrated by the dimensions and quantity of the three hundred and fifty-seven mirrors that decorate the seventeen arches opposite the windows. Up until that time Venice had the monopoly on mirrors (a luxury item) – but the new French production was just as capable.
The show of power rarely reached such a degree of ostentation; thus, the doge of Genoa in 1685 and the ambassadors of Siam (1686), Persia (1715), and the Ottoman Empire (1742) had to cross the entire hall, watched by the Court gathered on each side of the terraces! There were also the wedding celebrations of the Duke of Burgundy, grandson of Louis XIV, in 1697, of the son of Louis XV in 1745 and the masked ball for the wedding of Marie-Antoinette and the Dauphin, the future Louis XVI, in May 1770.
It was also here that the Treaty of Versailles was signed on 28th June 1919. The Treaty sealed the end of the First World War and it was exactly five years after the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand which caused all the trouble in the first place! As you can see, there is a mural of those present to commemorate the event.
The final conditions were determined by the leaders of the “Big Three” nations: British Prime Minister David Lloyd George, French Prime Minister Georges Clemenceau and American President Woodrow Wilson. Even with this smaller group it was difficult to decide on a common position because their aims conflicted with one another.
Typical of the male species but I shall say no more.
After such eloquence we head off to the King’s Chamber. In 1701 Louis XIV moved his bedchamber into the drawing room lying east-west in the Palace, facing the rising sun. The carved and gilded wood balustrade separated the alcove from the rest of the chamber and it became the visible sanctuary of the monarchy. The ceremonies of the King’s rising and retiring took place every day. It was likewise in this chamber that Louis XIV died on 1 September 1715 after reigning for 72 years.
In close proximity to the King’s Chamber is the Queen’s Chamber. It is in the main room of the apartment, the one where the Queen spent most of her time. She slept here, often joined by the King. In the morning, she received here during and after her Toilette, which constituted a Court event as regulated by etiquette as the Lever du Roi [Rising of the King]. It was here, too, that births took place in public: nineteen “Children of France” were born here.
When the palace was invaded by the rioters on 6 October 1789, Marie-Antoinette managed to escape from them through the little door on the left of the alcove, leading onto a corridor which gave access to the Queen’s internal apartments, a dozen small rooms reserved for her private life and her servants.
Next room and the last of our visit through the Grand Apartments is the Grand Couvert. The Salon of the Grand Couvert is part of the Queen’s Grand Apartment. Couvert means place setting in French, and this is the room where the royal couple had dinner.
The King and Queen sat on armchairs, facing the audience. Duchesses had the privilege of sitting on a row of stools arranged in a semi-circle a few feet in front of the table. Further away stood the rest of the courtiers and the public, for anyone decently dressed was admitted to the palace.
After all that history it is time for some fresh air. Leaving the apartments we now find ourselves standing in the massive garden & fountain complex. Due to water restrictions the fountains only operate on a roster basis during certain times of the day. Can you imagine what it was like when all the fountains were going all at the one time?
The complex on the left is one of two pools of the Water Parterre. These two large rectangular pools reflect the sunlight and light up the façade of the Hall of Mirrors and they are incredible. Each pool is decorated with four reclining statues symbolising the rivers of France: the Loire and the Loiret, the Rhône and the Saône, the Seine and the Marne, the Garonne and the Dordogne; to which are added four nymphs and four groups of children.
On the top terrace there is a magnificent view of the fountains and gardens. The fountain in the foreground is the Latona Fountain and further down the way is the Grand Canal. This was taken after our little tram adventure (read on) so you can see the fountain in action. It is announced that there is a drought so they are being careful with the water. I would have thought they had recycling systems in place but apparently not.
This place is HUGE! It is a shame that we do not have time to wander through the gardens so we opt to take the little hop on – hop off tram that shuttles between points of interest. The price seems a bit over the top – but that is only to be expected. Nevertheless we line up and patiently wait our turn. We will not visit all the stops but we still get a good idea of the gardens.
Our first stop will be the Petit Trianon which was the domain of Marie-Antoinette. She is the only queen to have imposed her personal taste on Versailles.
Sweeping away the old court and its traditions, she insisted on living as she wished – a modern woman of her time. In her Trianon domain, which Louis XVI gave her in 1774, she found the heaven of privacy that enabled her to escape from the rigours of court etiquette. Nobody could come there without her invitation. We line up to see the inside but the place is so small and there are loads of tourists so K&T decide to wait outside while I venture forth. It is like a doll’s house.
About 30 minutes later it is time to get back on the shuttle and when we arrive back at the palace the fountains are happily splashing away. What luck.
Although there is not a torrent of water gushing and splashing it is still amazing. The plants in the gardens are just about in their final stages so imagine what it would be like when all the flowers are in full bloom. The aromas would be breathtaking.
It is getting late in the afternoon and we still have to make our way back home so time to say au revoir to Louis and his court but not before I show you one more photo.
It has been a great day – tiring – but great.
Highlight of the day : The Hall of Mirrors