EDINBURGH – ye’ll take the high road
Saturday – a great night’s sleep and then another hearty breakfast of bacon, tomatoes, mushrooms, fruit & yoghurt, toast with jam and coffee – and we are off on our bus tour. We have a change of driver and guide today as Kenny and Paul are on a break.
Today’s guide is really great, he comes from the ‘lowlands’ and is wearing tartan trousers which, so tells us, only highlanders ever wore kilts and because of that they were thought of as barbarians. He also has a wicked sense of humour.
We drive all over Edinburgh, and I can’t get over the fact that some parts of Edinburgh are flat (the new town) and some are really, really hilly (the old town). We arrive at Edinburgh Castle which is in the old town and after a small talk we are left alone to explore.
HISTORY LESSON: Edinburgh Castle is a castle fortress which dominates the skyline of the city of Edinburgh from its position atop the volcanic Castle Rock. Human habitation of the site is dated back as far as the 9th century BC, although the nature of early settlement is unclear.
There has been a royal castle here since at least the reign of David I in the 12th century, and the site continued to be a royal residence until the Union of the Crowns in 1603.
As one of the most important fortresses in the Kingdom of Scotland, Edinburgh Castle has been involved in many historical conflicts, from the Wars of Scottish Independence in the 14th century, up to the Jacobite Rising of 1745, and has been besieged, both successfully and unsuccessfully, on several occasions. From the later 17th century, the castle became a military base, with a large garrison. Its importance as a historic monument was recognised from the 19th century, and various restoration programmes have been carried out since.
So off I go again with the cameras. Considering it is still a working army barracks there is not a soldier to be seen – no matter. Go through the main entrance gate where there is a statue of Robert the Bruce (below right) on one side and William Wallace (left) on the other.
A very formidable narrow gateway to be sure and between these statues is where the Massed Pipes and Drums enter the esplanade for the Tattoo.
After admiring these two Scottish icons I decide on a plan which is to make for the top without stopping and looking at anything and then take my time walking back down.
On the way up there are lots of little narrow walkways and places with steep steps if you are that adventurous – I am not. These people who lived here must have been fit – that’s all I can say!
It sure is a climb and a half – but wonderful views when I get there.
Even though Edinburgh is shrouded in a Summer haze the city is still glorious from way up here although I have to catch my breath before my hands are steady enough to take any photos!
To stand and look out over Edinburgh and see as far as the North Sea inlets is incredible. It is such an old city and definitely it shows signs of wear and tear but that together with the black and grey sooty buildings gives a sense of character and history. There are many tourists along the balustrades but I find a nice quiet spot so that I can snap away or just enjoy my own company
Whilst enjoying the views I come across a great big cannon called Mons Meg. A medieval bombard – it appears from the accounts of Phillip the Good, Duke of Burgundy that it was made to his order around 1449 and sent as a gift 8 years later to King James II in 1457 with other artillery supplies.
This is not to be confused with the one o’clock gun that is fired everyday.
Of course everyone wants their photo taken with Meg – I stand and wait and wait and wait until I say enough is enough. I would like to take a photo please. As I take the snap, the ever present ‘I don’t give a tinker’s cuss about anyone else’ tourist appears and gets in the way and after my snap the cannon is covered with tourists yet again.
Walking around it is a very compact castle. I also get to see the Scottish Crown Jewels and also the Stone of Scone (pronounced skoon).
HISTORY LESSON: this stone was used as a Coronation Seat for Scottish Monarchs and was stolen from the Scots by an English invader and put under the throne of all the British Monarchs. The stone was returned to Scotland in 1996. Bummer, no photos in there for obvious reasons.
There is so much history and a sense of tradition that our time here of an hour is not nearly enough and after walking, walking, walking all around the castle it is time to leave. Back on the coach and heading for Edinburgh town we stop at the Palace of Holyroodhouse for a little walk around outside the main gates. We don’t go in but we can take photos – albeit from a distance and of course Tina the tourist must get in the photo. Some people have no idea!
HISTORY LESSON: Founded as a monastery in 1128, the Palace of Holyroodhouse in Edinburgh is The Queen’s official residence in Scotland. Situated at the end of the Royal Mile, the Palace of Holyroodhouse is closely associated with Scotland’s turbulent past, including Mary, Queen of Scots, who lived here between 1561 and 1567.
Successive kings and queens have made the Palace of Holyroodhouse the premier royal residence in Scotland. Today, the Palace is the setting for State ceremonies and official entertaining.
We go back to the city and are dropped off so that we can roam around for about 5 hours when the bus will take us back to the Marriott. It is a shame that the hotel is so far out of town. You can get a bus into town from it but hardly seems worth the effort for the small amount of time we have here, so I have to make the most of Edinburgh now – – cannot come back – – – well, not this tour anyway.
I have made a plan of what I want to see and I immediately get out the map and put it into action. I know exactly where to go and heading towards the little church where Greyfriars Bobby and his owner are buried – I promptly get lost.
That cannot be right – but alas it is.
I decide discretion is the better part of valour and decide to ask directions – I was going in the wrong direction wouldn’t you know it – the place is right at the other end of the town where I am. So walking, walking down hill I arrive to find a little statue of Bobby outside a place called Greyfriars Bobby’s Bar. More photos.
The little church where he is buried is not far so I have a bit of a wander around there. Bobby’s owner – John Gray is also buried there.
Back towards Edinburgh centre I go and all uphill. The buildings are fabulous and the older ones are really grey / black. I remember our guide from this morning telling us that this is because of all the years of soot. The council did try and clean them but in the process it was damaging the stone so it was decided to leave them be. Personally, I think they look great. Most of the streets are like little alleyways and there are lots of alleyways joining the streets and I would imagine it would be creepy here at night.
As it is Summer, the Edinburgh festival is on and there are loads of street performers. One particular interesting act was 3 girls dressed in white and laying on the ground head to foot in a circle. They didn’t make a sound. And the meaning of this was ??????? Who knows. I also come across a girl dressed as a very big pink bird – lots of buskers, some good and some should have stayed at home but I decide that it is time to grab something to eat and find somewhere to sit.
There is a really nice park near the Scott Monument – –
This monument is dedicated to the memory of Sir Walter Scott (1771 – 1832). Scott was a Scottish novelist and poet. The monument is 200ft high and 55ft square at the base and is constructed of Binnie stone which supposedly contains natural oils to aid in its preservation.
There are 287 steps to the highest gallery. The monument also has a Carrara marble statue of Scott. You will notice that it is extremely dark coloured. But what character it has!
What a lovely place – even though you have to walk down lots of stairs to get to the seats in the park and of course that means you have to walk back up. But never mind – the feet and legs are already in shock and I really have to try and compensate for those big breakfasts.
Off again – see St Giles Cathedral, Princes Street and do a little bit of shopping for some souvenirs. After spending a bit more money it is time to turn around and walk the other way – all the way up to the Nelson Column on Calton Hill. Yes, another hill!!!!
HISTORY LESSON: Perched high on Calton Hill, at the east end of the city centre, is the monument to Admiral Lord Nelson’s victory and death, at the battle of Trafalgar October 1805.
The upturned telescope was designed by the architect Robert Burn, and built between 1807 and 1815. In 1852, a large time ball was introduced, which is lowered as the one o’clock gun is fired from Edinburgh Castle each day.
‘Climb the 143 steps to see the tremendous views, framed by Fife to the north, the Forth estuary to the east, the Moorfoot hills to the south and the Forth Rail and Road Bridges to the west’.
As good as that sounds – no thanks – I’ll take your word for it!
There is a really old cemetery a bit further on with many interesting headstones where you can get good views of the train yards – – and a rather large hill called Arthur’s Seat. Why? Haven’t got a clue!
After wandering back and forth and up and down all of Edinburgh – and let me tell you I saw a lot and took a lot of photos – it is time to find the place where the coach is going to pick us up.
I am glad to sit down and rest these poor legs and feet. While I am sitting on the seat two tourists come up to me (do I look like a local?) and ask me ‘Do you know where the Botanical Gardens are?’ Well, out comes the map, yes the one that got me lost – and I am a bit loathe to try and help remembering my directions to Greyfriars Bobby but I try and assist.
When they leave I get the distinct feeling they went in the wrong direction. Oh well, they will find out the hard way – in about an hour or so. The coach is here and we head back to the hotel. I have a nice relaxing bath and get ready for :
#2 OPTIONAL: Scottish Cabaret. – Cost ₤35.00
What a great night. The show is called ‘Jamie’s Scottish Evening’. Well worth the money.
Place was the Thistle Hotel (formerly known as The King James). Meal consists of Traditional Scotch Broth – Angus Beef and vegetables and Cranachan. Very simple dinner but it was very good. Then it is time for the Ceremony of the Haggis. The piper comes first and the haggis arrives and is placed on the table.
The show’s MC – Bill Torrance recites ‘The Address to the Haggis’ written by Robert Burns before stabbing the ‘wee beastie’ and serving it up. We all get to taste it. Can’t come to Scotland and not do that – so I close my eyes and have a go. It tastes like gluey spicey mince. But that taste is forgotten after a glass or two of wine – which comes with the dinner.
The show is great. The accordionist is a fellow named Jimmy and he is wearing a kilt and halfway through a song Bill looks at Jimmy – looks at me and looks at Jimmy again and then stops the show. He tells Jimmy to put his knees together but I say that’s OK – leave him alone and then it’s on from there.
We laugh and chuckle all night and I end up singing a chorus of – ‘Daisy, Daisy give me you answer do’. Isn’t it amazing what wine can do????
Everyone is having a great time. One performer is a highland dancer and he is Japanese with a few jokes made along these lines. Apparently he is a student at the University here in Edinburgh. Well that’s an odd sight I must say but after loads of chuckling we realise that he is really good. Anyway, we have a fabulous night. There are a few other tour groups there as well so this must be the place for a good time. Well fed and watered – I am glad to get into bed.
Highlight of the day: Edinburgh Castle