EDINBURGH to NEWTONMORE – we go Forth by Firth
Sunday – after a very comfortable night in my nice big bed – the expected early start to the day – the customary ‘Waltz of the Bags’ outside the hotel room by 7am and we head for breakfast.
Yet another hearty meal of bacon, tomatoes, mushrooms etc etc. and we get on the coach and head north towards the highlands. The seating plan is working well. We cross the ‘Firth of Tay’ – – – – and we see the famous Firth of Forth railway bridge.
HISTORY LESSON: The Forth Bridge is a cantilever railway bridge over the Firth of Forth in the east of Scotland, to the east of the Forth Road Bridge, and 14 kilometres (9 mi) west of central Edinburgh. It is often called the Forth Rail Bridge or Forth Railway Bridge to distinguish it from the Forth Road Bridge. It was opened on 4 March 1890. The bridge connects Scotland’s capital city with Fife and acts as a major artery connecting the north-east and south-east of the country.
Heading East we stop at St. Andrews Cathedral circa 1130 AD. These are the remains of the largest cathedral in Scotland.
There is also a cemetery that contains the grave of the man who invented golf. We get to walk around the ruins and have a really good look. What a great place – very old, very large, very interesting and it is set right by the sea on the east coast.
HISTORY LESSON: St Andrews was the focal point for the Scottish church from the 10th Century up to the reformation of 1560 when the cathedral was stripped and abandoned. Building on the Cathedral started in 1160 but it wasn’t until 1318 that it was consecrated. The sprawling Cathedral complex encompassed St Rules Church, which predates the cathedral, the priory built for Augustinian Canons, which was enclosed within a great precinct wall which leads down to the bay. Its magnificent Pends Gate marks the drive through entrance to the area.
We get back on the coach and head off for St. Andrews town for the usual pit stop and morning tea. We park just near the St. Andrews Golf Course and no – they don’t provide the morning tea – if we want it we have to buy it at one of the local shops. Pretty setting but I am not a golf fanatic.
HISTORY LESSON: Golf has been played on the Links at St Andrews since around 1400 AD and the Old Course is renowned throughout the world as the Home of Golf. The game grew in popularity and by the 19th century it was part of the way of life for many local people, whether as players, caddies, ball makers or club makers.
Golf still plays a major part in the culture and economy of St Andrews today. As the 600 year history of the Links has unfolded, one simple track hacked through the bushes and heather has developed into six public golf courses, attracting hundreds of thousands of golfing pilgrims from around the globe. St Andrews Links is the largest golfing complex in Europe and all 18 hole courses can be booked in advance. The Castle Course, the seventh course at the Home of Golf, is situated on cliff tops overlooking St Andrews to the east of the town.
The ladies make a bee line for the loos or the cafes but I just want to see as much as I can – so I take a little walk down the 1st fairway (just so that I can say I walked St Andrews) – and then I head off for St Andrews Castle. It is a nice walk along the coastline – about 10 minutes from the Golf Course.
Do not have time to pay and go inside and have a really good look around but I take lots of photos from outside and of course visit the shop and buy a book! This castle (circa 1100 AD) is right on the sea as well. The sea is really flat but I suppose it can get really stormy at times.
There is an aquarium right next to the castle. It’s a shame that we were not given the choice of the golf course or the castle as I would have preferred the castle for sure, and anyway I am sure that many of the coach group would rather have their tea and scones than actually walk around and see anything.
Ah well, back on the coach and heading north we go through Dundee, turning south-west to Perth and then north for the highlands. Weather is still holding. Very mountainous countryside and the heather is starting to come into bloom. Pretty pinks and mauves. Incredible scenery and I feel strangely drawn to this place. I don’t know why as there is no Scottish ancestry in my family. Well, not that I know of. Weird eh?
Paul says that in another month the heather will be in full bloom – but never mind – it’s pretty now and of course I keep humming tunes from Brigadoon – The Heather on the Hill etc. I am sure that there is a song for every place on earth. My travels will provide the challenge to sing them!
We stop at the Caithness Glass Factory for lunch – a cafeteria type place – and we get to look around. They specialise in paper weights – there are some lovely ones – but my luggage is getting heavy what with me buying a book from every place we visit so I decide against adding to the weight. We go past Blair Atholl and Killiecrankie where ‘Bonnie Dundee’ met his end. Who is Bonnie Dundee? He was John Graham, 1st Viscount of Dundee and was called “Bluidy Clavers” (Bloody Claverhouse) by his opponents, but Bonnie Dundee by his followers among the Jacobites. He died for the cause at the Battle of Killiecrankie and a century later was immortalised in a poem by Walter Scott. The poem was later adapted into a song.
We have two optionals today – the first being:
#3 OPTIONAL: BlairCastle – Cost ₤10.50.
Ah, Blair Castle – just a little bit out of Blair Atholl and what a picturesque place. This is the ancient home of the Dukes of Atholl (circa 13thcentury). There is a piper out the front to welcome all the tourists and he does a good job.
I will not venture into another history lesson just click the link above and you are there. Lots of very old highland traditions here and we get a tour of the castle after which we are let loose to go adventuring over the fabulous grounds – and they are so big! There are lots of little babbling brooks with wonderful clear water.
I even get a glimpse of the deer in the grounds. I wait and wait for them to come closer but they won’t have anything to do with it. Nevermind – I still take photos. It’s getting late in the afternoon so I go to the Souvenir shop to – yep, buy a book. We all get back on the coach and we are on our way to:
#4 OPTIONAL: A highland sheep farm visit – Cost ₤9.00.
The farm is owned by Neil Ross and he shows us how to work up to 9 sheepdogs at once. Now you might say what would an Aussie girl want to see sheep and sheepdogs for?
Who knows but I am not going to miss a thing. Neil is incredible with his dogs, they know exactly what to do with just a whistle. A young lass who is working on the property gives us a sheep shearing demonstration and asks if we would like to have a go – no thanks from me.
I like all my fingers exactly where they are all the same. One of the big, brave look at me types in the group has a try – after proving to everyone that he was an idiot I feel like saying let’s leave it to the experts shall we?
There are some little puppies that I just have to cuddle. They are only about two months old and one of the people in the group step on one – the puppy lets out a yelp but it is not hurt. What a klutz. I would have liked to step on the oaf with the big feet.
We have a lovely time there and after visiting the souvenir shop it is getting late, not to mention a bit chilly (finally cold weather) so back on the coach that has taken our luggage to the hotel and returned and we head for our overnight hotel at Newtonmore – THE HIGHLANDER.
On arriving it seems a really quaint family operated place – very homely and inviting but the saga was yet to unfold! Dying for a hot shower – no bath here – I practically race to the room in anticipation only to find that the hot water doesn’t arrive, even after running the taps for 5 minutes. Oh, oh! So back on go the clothes and I head off for reception to lodge a complaint and ask for a room with hot water.
I keep my calm, after all I am a guest and was told the reason – ‘it takes a while for the hot water to go through the pipes dearie and you must have been the first person who wanted to take a shower (doesn’t anyone else here wash??) – just go back and let the tap run for a while’. Are they kidding????? NO!!!!!! Back to the room – 10 minutes more of running water and I am able to have a hot shower. Well, that’s a hoot!!
After finally warming up I have worked up an appetite so off to the highlight traditional Highland Dinner which is in the Hotel. Am looking forward to a nice hearty dinner consisting of: The Laird’s Pot – Vegetable soup and Highland Herbs / Fresh local Trout Fillet, grilled and served with a light Tarragon Sauce / Fresh Fruit Salad and Coffee. The food is lovely but the entertainment is not a patch on the one in Edinburgh. But then again this is just a country hotel not a big city establishment. Just look at it as another experience.
The guy playing the accordion looks like a real grump – he doesn’t smile and the piper is a bit scratchy which sounds like someone stepping on a cat’s tail. There are also a couple of highland dancers – and that’s the end of the show.
The Haggis comes out for the Ceremony and it is dressed up to look like I don’t know what. Obviously city haggis and country haggis are not related. What is the plural of haggis? Haggi?
Anyway I am not tempted – I have done my bit for Scottish culture in Edinburgh! We take the usual touristy photos – sit around for a while and have chat over a glass or two about what we have seen so far. Not much happening here after dinner and the show so an early night.
Highlight of the day: the lovely little border collie dogs