YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK – better than the average Boo Boo
Sunday – – – today is our day to discover Yellowstone National Park.
We are up early, about 7am and bubbling with excitement and anticipation.
After packing our Nat Geo supplies and other items we may need for today we decide that a Golden Arches brekkie is the way to go so we can hit the road immediately.
Nothing like multi-skilling. Maybe we should call this road trip – Maccas across America.
Arriving at the Entrance Gates with our Maccas in hand we strike up a conversation with a most welcoming man who tells us we have to purchase a car pass to enter Yellowstone; the cost is $25 but it lasts for 7 days – that’s a bargain if you are here for that amount of time, unfortunately we are not and only get to use it once but I am sure that we will get our moneys worth.
We also get a great map so that we can work out where we are because we have a list of places we wish to see. He also tells us to watch out for the animals as they could be on the roads this time of morning and to not get too close to the larger animals like bison and bears because they can run faster than us! WOW – so exciting.
HISTORY LESSON : At the heart of Yellowstone’s past, present and future lies volcanism. About 2 million years ago saw the beginning of the huge volcanic eruptions. The park’s present central portion collapsed forming a caldera and the magmatic heat powering those eruptions still powers the geysers, hot springs, fumaroles and mudpots that you see today. Bottom line is – when you visit Yellowstone you are standing in a giant volcano!
Through the West Entrance and we can see brake lights ahead. For those of you who have not been here – every time you see brake lights or cars stationary on the roadside it is a sure fire sign that there are animals about.
We slow down for a quick look – maybe bears? maybe bison? but it is cute little deer and knowing that we will see more wildlife during the day we give the deer a cheery good morning and head off. We keep on our plan to head towards the Ranger’s Headquarters.
The journey we have decided to undertake today is in the shape of a figure eight (see map) and we will travel anti-clockwise on the bottom loop then head up to the top and back around. Doesn’t look too far to the untrained eye. Really, how big can a park be? Big mistake. Off we go! We head for the Information Station but it is even too early for them so we have a little wander and then decide to go on our merry way.
We are at Madison and a turn to the right finds us following the Firehole River. There is a very pretty loop drive – Firehole Canyon Drive, very steep in parts and a very narrow road and that is why it is one way traffic but a drive not to be missed.
We find a suitable place to pull over out of harms way and as we do we hear the sound of water gushing somewhere. Across the road we go and looking left we are confronted with this pretty waterfall. The sun has not hit this spot yet and it is really chilly but not wanting to miss anything, what I don’t know, I decide that I will tough it out and not get my jacket from the car. This waterfall is Firehole Falls.
After numerous photo sessions we race back to the car and put the heaters on which does wonders for our shivering bodies and chattering teeth.
Still keeping an eye out we come across a lovely sunny spot and there is a magnificent Bull Elk across the river. Making sure there is no traffic and that it is safe for us we stand on one side of the Firehole River and admire him on the other side.
We are very patient and wait for ages for him to turn around and finally we get rewarded with this Kodak moment. It’s as good as it got, isn’t he a beauty? Elk lose their antlers every year and grow new ones and this one is no exception. He keeps on rubbing his antlers against bushes and trees so that he can rid himself of the bloody skin that is covering the framework.
Time to press on and it is not long before we see another magnificent view – our first glimpse of geysers in the park. Please excuse me if I say magnificent or wonderful or brilliant or incredible too many times. Let me say that this Park can stand it.
We are in the middle of an open, grassy plain and off in the distance are these columns of steam rising into the sky. Little do we realise that this is only the beginning – the cameras are going a million miles an hour. This is Lower Geyser Basin and we are passed by numerous cars that don’t even stop to look and we are astounded that they do not want to admire this breath-taking view but maybe they have visited before, maybe they are anxious to get to the geysers – we don’t know nor do we care.
Finally we must tear ourselves away. We arrive at the tourist viewing area and there is a walkway around the geysers and bubbling mud pools. This walkway is very close to ‘the action’ and there are mostly no handrails – just uninterrupted views of everything.
The only handrail fences we come across are those around the boiling mud pots and the geysers. But that’s OK – because there are also information boards telling you what you are looking at. The smell of sulphur is incredible but everyone is going to smell of it – so who cares?
Producing the list of things to see and do – otherwise known as Loz’s 10,000 photo opportunities in Yellowstone – first stop is the Fountain Paint Pots where boiling air, water and mud all rush to the surface and then just go berserk. Speaking of which, on our journey around this brilliant spot we run into a bus full of Japanese tourists with children. The Japanese are, on the whole, a quiet, very polite race and definitely someone to have around if you need to have your photo taken as they know which button to push without having to be told.
Unfortunately sometimes coach tours and young children are not a good combination and this is one of those times. There is one little girl who will not walk along smiling and happy with everyone and continues to scream a la Psycho – so her parents just walk off and leave her – that’s great. I would have done the same but this situation is not allowed and as the kid is still screaming, the father has to go back and pick her up and then she stops the screaming.
I can think of a better way to stop her but Kylie gives her and the father one of ‘those looks’ and he takes off with her back to the safety of the coach. But I digress – back to the Paint Pots – they are fabulous and make a wonderful blurp-blurp-blurp noise when the air reaches the surface. You could stand here for hours just watching them.
The geysers and pools we see here are incredible. There is a really strong sulphur smell and it’s like having a steam bath – albeit a smelly one – I am sure it is doing wonders for the skin – but it doesn’t matter about the smell because as I said everyone will smell the same.
We see some incredible remnants of trees that are called ‘bobby sox’ see photo below.
These trees are aptly named due to the fact that over many years, thermal waters have flowed in this area not only killing the trees, but preserving them. Since the hot water is rich in silica, the wood absorbs the mineral several feet up the trunk of the tree.
Normally in this dry humidity with long, cold Winters, wood decomposes very slowly. Once a tree falls to the ground, it may take well over 100 years for the wood to break down and return to the soil. But if the wood has been silicified as it has here, these trees may stand for centuries as skeleton trees.
Such ‘Bobby Sox’ trees are just the right backdrop for K & T who are in the right spirit and have their bobby sox on as well!
There are many different types of features here. Boiling mud pots, little bubbling geysers, geysers that have spasm attacks and open areas of calcified trees and earth. Brilliant! Lots and lots of Kodak moments. Digital cameras are a wonderful invention!
After a leisurely walk around this area trying to squeeze all the information into the brain – it’s back to the car to continue our drive south to Midway Geyser Basin. This is another area of geysers and spectacular pools.
We park the car and then have a rather lengthy but comfortable walk to the walkway but it gives us time to stretch our legs and appreciate further the wonders of this place. On our approach we see the waters from the top area running down to the river and ending in a hiss of steam. The colours from the waters have turned the run off areas a bronze colour and we cannot wait to get up the incline so we can see everything.
The walkway is another unfenced area except for the ‘danger’ spots. The smell of sulphur is still strong and there is a spritely breeze blowing.
The area is an open plain with geysers and deep pools.
The geyser on the left has not erupted for quite some time but the water from the plain runs down the sides and together with the bubbling water in the pool creates a wonderful sensation.
There are also quite a few hats down there. The Rangers have to come along every now and again and fish them out with a long pole. Now that would be a good job!
We just do not know where to look next. Continuing on our walk we are lucky that we do not fall off into the surrounds as we are busy snapping away. It is very quiet except for the hissing steam. There are no crowds pushing us along and there doesn’t seem to be any screaming children either so that can only be a good thing.
Tyler ‘Livingstone’ points out to us the ‘Two Tit Mountains’. I am sure that is not their real name. In our innocence we think maybe they are part of the Grand Tetons. We are once again proven to be ‘tourist idiots’ – not only are they not part of the Grand Tetons (a fact that will be proven on our next journey in 2009) – they are definitely not called ‘Two Tits’. Tyler’s sense of humour has just kicked in!! Ha!!
It is still early in the morning so after our circle of Midway – we head back to the car and off to the Upper Geyser Basin.
During the drive we see the ‘animal alert’. It is some ‘tatonka’ which is Native American for bison. They are huge and are just munching along without a care in the world. They look up every now and again with eyes that say ‘I don’t care – I am not smiling for the photo’ and of course we remember what the Ranger said about getting too close, tempting as it is.
Obviously some people did not listen to the advice and continue to edge closer. Idiots! We get excited because we think we may get footage of a charging tatonka – but no, they even think these people are idiots and not worth the effort. Tatonka were numbered in the thousands years ago but indiscriminate shooting led to a decline in numbers.
On a good note – they are gradually increasing and will continue to do so within the confines of the park where they are protected and after many Kodak moments it’s back to the car and onto Upper Geyser Basin.
Another well planned walkway around the area – and our first geyser is Cliff Geyser, a very pretty albeit sporadic geyser. I have to give up trying to film it but will get it on the way back! Every time he has a little splutter I don’t have the camera ready and every time I have the camera ready he just sits there and does nothing.
Some of the deep pools in this area are Sunset Lake which has orange colours around the edge with brilliant blue water and Emerald Pool which is of course a deep emerald green. Looks good enough just to hop in and have a bath doesn’t it but definitely out of the question. Kylie is far ahead of Tyler and me but that’s OK. We have plenty of time.
Before we leave the area I do manage to capture the rascal Cliff and while not a towering gusher he is very active in a cheeky sort of fashion.
After all of this it’s back to the car and onto Old Faithful keeping our fingers crossed that we do not have to wait ages for her to erupt.
She is called Old Faithful because she erupts faithfully every 90 minutes or so. We head off to the Ranger Station to check the next time and we are in luck – we have about 5 minutes to wait so we rush on down to the viewing area and it is not long before ‘thar she blows’.
Wow! It is as spectacular as I imagined and it is great to actually watch it in real time rather than on a computer screen as I have been doing for the last umpteen months!
Click here to be taken to the Yellowstone Webcams.
Old Faithful is a cone geyser and was named in 1870 during the Washburn-Langford-Doane Expedition. It was also the first geyser in the park to receive a name.
It’s also hard to watch real live action through my eyes, the digital still and the digital DVD all at the same time – but Nat Geo would be proud of me and I manage all three. The skies are so blue and the geyser so white – it really is breath-taking and in about 10 minutes it is all over until the next time in about an hour and a half.
When we are leaving we stop at the sign because we always take photos of signs – and with K&T’s particular sense of humour this is the photo. We call back in to the Ranger & Information Station where K&T become members of Yellowstone National Park. They will receive newsletters and offers and also receive a lovely Yellowstone Bag. I keep to my custom and buy a book, DVD and fridge magnet.
Time to move on – we are still going anti-clockwise around the park – through Craig Pass to West Thumb and Grant Village to have lunch. We decide that we will not have the fast food variety but will dine at the fine establishment – The Grant Restaurant.
Being seated by the staff – we feel a bit out of place in our extremely casual attire – but no matter our money is as good as anyone else’s – we order a pre dinner drink except for T who has – yep Dr Pepper and then to the food. I order Rocky Mountain Trout with pecans and lemon butter and salad, accompanied by another glass of chardonnay.
It was a nice light lunch and more importantly – scrumptious. Tyler has a blue cheese burger and Kylie has Wild Salmon. We spend about an hour there just relaxing, talking about what we have seen and what is left to do and in general admiring the view that we get from our table.
The whole back wall of the restaurant is glass so the views are spectacular from the front tables. As there are about only 6 tables occupied we were able to get a front row seat!
After lunch we head off again driving along the shores of Yellowstone Lake to Bridge Bay – Lake Village and we stop at Fishing Bridge. Lovely views and you can see the bush fires in the distance. People really did fish of the bridge once but that has all stopped now. A little walk is good because we are stuffed to the gills from lunch.
Past Mud Volcano and Sulphur Cauldron. Again following the Yellowstone River our next stop is Hayden Valley. This is supposedly where we will have a chance of seeing a larger herd of tatonkas!
Yep there they are out in the valley just chomping away. Unfortunately there are the tourist dare-devils that insist on getting as close as they can and especially like to stand right in front of you when you want to take the photo. I call them dare-devils because it would be oh so easy just to dislodge them and send them into the valley below to get first hand knowledge of what exactly a tatonka will do when you enter his space! There are males, females and little tatonkas who are just so cute.
These animals weigh about 700kg so to have one of them sit on you would be rather unpleasant to say the least. We leave the tatonkas behind and head off for Yellowstone Grand Canyon and the Yellowstone Falls.
BUT on the way – what do we see – brake lights – so we stop and get to visit with our very own tatonka who has come to say hello. He is just ambling along the road and then decides that’s enough and heads off into the bush to join his herd.
He is the size of Kylie’s car and you really don’t get an idea of how big they are until you are practically close enough to pat them. Photo courtesy of Kylie as I was too busy taking video. After he disappears we head off again and when we reach our destination, Yellowstone Falls, and when K&T see the amount of stairs to the view point they chicken out so once again I venture into the unknown wilds by myself.
It is blowing a gale out on the view point and very difficult to hold the cameras still while holding onto the rail but I do my best and succeed in not being blown off the landing! Idiot people are positioning their kids in trees on the other (gasp) side of the safety fences so that they can get a good photo.
Could have been good action shots if the kids decided to explore the Canyon head first! Definitely the land of Deliverance!
After all the wind I can stand and nearly having a breakdown on more than one occasion because of the idiot parents I decide it is time to join the other two members of the party. I tell them about the incredible falls and how it would be great if you could actually go down to the bottom and look at them falling but all I get is a ‘don’t even think of it’ look. Some people are just no fun eh?
Still heading anti-clockwise we travel through through Canyon Village and up to Tower-Roosevelt. We think we will stop and see the petrified tree as it sounds interesting but it is too far to walk, and after all it is only a tree standing there petrified. I would be too if I had that amount of tourists looking at me all the time so we stay in the car and use our zooms!
Our poor little tootsies are ever so grateful and I can feel mine smiling in my sneakers.
Next stop is Mammoth Hot Springs – we are finally at the top of the figure 8.
The sign says to allow 2 hours for the walk around the springs so a unanimous decision to give the big walk a miss so we drive to the top and take a short walk down the decking. I think the amount of walking we have done so far plus the lunch is starting to take its toll on us.
We stop for a good rest and see the boiling water trickling over many of the springs. Mammoth is an extremely large field of calcium carbonate (travertine) that has been forming for many thousands of years. There are different levels of terraces and the water falls over each of them on its way to the bottom.
This is such a magic place that would be good to come back and actually do the 2 hour walk. Lots more good photos but it is getting late – we have been in the park all day and still have about 50 miles to go before we get back to West Yellowstone. It is not dark yet – not even close.
We get out of the park at 7.30pm and decide that takeaway at the good old Golden Arches will suffice for dinner so we can get back to the room, eat in peace and collapse – we are dead.
It has been a big day full of spectacular scenery – sadly no bears – and we are really looking forward to tomorrow (NOT) – the killer 12 hour drive to Monument Valley. (I think K&T plan to kill me tonight and cancel the drive – so I will not get any sleep that’s for sure because I will have to keep an eye on them!!!!!) Especially since we have booked another 5.30am wake-up call! I really am taking my life in my hands with this holiday.
Highlight of the day : everything but especially our very own tatonka!