REDDING to ST HELENS – a very blue day
Sunday – we wake today refreshed and eager to start our journey. The monumental lunch of yesterday is only a warm memory as we head off for breakfast and our only tourist stop today – Crater Lake.
I had not heard anything about this place before it was added to the list of ‘must sees’ and after investigating the web it is spectacular. Surely the lake cannot be as blue as the photos – I don’t care what they say or do with their photos nothing is that blue.
Driving along the ipod is blaring away with Human Nature as we pass some more spectacular scenery. Whilst not the ocean – the lakes and tree covered mountains are breath-taking. We can even see snow on some of the tall mountain tops! We pass through Trinity and Klamath Mountains and drive over Shasta Lake and let me say that as we head further North to Oregon the amount of tall dense trees takes up the whole shot in the camera.
The highways are relatively quiet with an occasional truck rumbling past us on the other side of the road. The roads here are something else with most of them either 4, 6 or more lane divided freeways.
When we stop for petrol at Castella I try and get some film of a whole bunch of hawks soaring effortlessly above on the air currents. It is hard to zoom in but I manage although not good enough for still photos.
There is also some large white mountains called Castle Crags behind the petrol station and this together with the green trees and blue sky makes for a good Kodak moment don’t you think?
Back on the road we pass Mt Shasta on our right and then we see a sign that says we are entering the town of Central Weed. The mind boggles as to why anyone would want to call a town that! Obviously named by a bunch of hippies in the sixties, we chuckle at the thought of the Town Naming Ceremony! We turn off the main Highway at Weed and head further inland.
We are getting higher – by that I mean height wise – not weed wise and the elevation is 5101 feet. Leaving California we are now in Oregon which makes Tyler cheer and grace us with a few of his Duck chants – unfortunately the tall trees have disappeared and we are travelling on flat grassy plains and sparsely covered mountains.
There is a huge grain / hay factory up ahead and as we drive by Tyler does his ‘hay’ cheer as we spy bales of hay standing sentry in the fields. (I think it must be an Oregon thing). We also spy a mining operation on the side of the mountain that has piles of gravel stocked up.
Passing Klamath Lake on our left and further along there are many small townships and farms with some friendly cows munching away giving us a look every now and again. Arriving at Crater Lake – which is only about a 4 hour drive from Redding – we head to the Park Headquarters (elevation 1966m) to work out the best plan of attack.
There are not many cars parked here so hopefully there may not be that many visitors.
After the screams and tantrums of our munchkin friends yesterday – today in the wide open spaces is going to be fabulously relaxing. After talking with the Ranger we decide to do the Rim Drive which is approximately 53km of road that encircles the entire lake. It will take us about 4 hours and he suggests that we should stop at all the lookouts for a while so that we can really enjoy the scenery.
Leaving the centre and driving in a clockwise direction around the lake we call in at Rim Village that has a Visitor Centre. After parking our car we head on up to the centre and glimpse our first view of the lake – see photo right.
Inside the Centre there is a Ranger telling us that the lake is sacred to the Native Americans and then he proceeds to tell us their story of how the lake was created.
Their story is that Crater Lake (this is a different hyperlink to the previous one) includes the idea of an Above-world – a region of light and all things beautiful and enjoyable ruled by Skel; and a Below-world – a place of terror and everlasting darkness ruled by Llao. The mythology of the Klamath and Modoc Indians includes the story of Llao, the chief spirit that lived in the land of Gaywas (gi’was – Crater Lake).
The spirits who were under the control of Llao assumed animal forms when they went onto dry land. Skel’s realm was the Klamath Marsh country. He also had subjects who took the forms of animals. A fierce war occurred between Llao and Skel that caused the great mountain to fall in and the lake to form.
When the story is finished we venture outside to the viewing area at Sinnott Memorial Lookout and are confronted with – –
Yes – it really is that blue! Incredible! I don’t believe it – but there it is right in front of my eyes. Spectacular!
HISTORY LESSON: At approximately 600 metres deep it is the deepest lake in the USA and one of the deepest in the world. It is 8 km wide and is ringed by cliffs almost 670 metres high! The lake rests in the shattered remnants of a volcano called Mount Mazama which erupted and collapsed into itself about 7,700 years ago.
Our next stop is Discovery Point and taking care not to hit the bike riders that are out enjoying the day we manage to arrive safely. I am so glad that the weather today is brilliant – it seems to suit this place.
There are ‘Danger’ signs warning people not to climb over the little brick wall and out onto the point as the ground is not very stable and it sure is one hell of a drop! Ever sensible, we of course, stay well behind the barrier. Not so our little squirrel friends who hop and run all over the place.
Kylie wants to feed them but it is not allowed! I can imagine what this place would be like in Winter when it is covered in snow. Maybe another one to add to the ever-growing list? I just cannot get over the colour and stillness of this lake. Thousands of years of rain and melting snow have filled this crater.
Back in the car and on to the Watchman Overlook. This pullout offers unmatched views of Wizard Island which is a cinder-cone volcano named for its resemblance to a sorcerer’s pointed hat. To me it looks like a huge bird with wings outstretched.
The island erupted out of the lake around 7,300 years ago and features a 27 metre deep crater in its summit. There is also a wonderful green pool in the rock which is in total contrast to the blueness of the lake.
Here we encounter lots of grasshoppers in the sparse vegetation on the side of the lake. They are chirping and hopping all over the place but a car full of noisy tourists, one of which has a yappy dog, arrives and we decide to move on to our next port of call – Merriam Point.
It is from here that we see Llao Rock and Llao Bay. We are only about one third of the way around so far – and it is very enjoyable. After leaving here we pull over into an area that overlooks the Pumice Desert.
From this overlook we see the mountains that surround this wonderful pace. Mt Neilson, The Three sisters (not like ours back home – these are mountains), Red Cone and then there is Diamond Lake.
Behind Diamond Lake is Diamond Peak, Mt Bailey and Bald Crater. Behind Bald Crater is Garwood Butte. Here endeth the Geography Lesson.
From Pumice Point we see a cruise boat. Apparently you can take cruises on the lake which would be wonderful if we had a spare day or two however we don’t.
Compared to the size of the lake the boat is so small, just like a little piece of floating wood. We are half way round.
Next stop is Skel Head – and on Mount Scott there is even a small patch of snow remaining.
Continuing the drive we arrive at Pumice Castle. This is a layer of orange pumice rock that has been eroded into the shape of a medieval castle.
This place is on an unmarked viewpoint so we had to watch carefully and follow our map to find it. Why it is unmarked I don’t know as it is fascinating. Such a contrast against the grey volcanic rock.
Also near here is Sentinel Rock where we just stop to rest. I think we all must be enjoying our day as we all have smiles on our little faces and are more than willing to pose for photos.
Dramas and black clouds of days gone by have disappeared and we are all happy little Vegemites. I think it may have something to do with the sun re-energising our batteries or could it be due to the fact that there are no children around! Anyway whatever the reason we seem to have been given a new lease on life.
We stay here for quite some time just sitting in the sun and looking at the lake but after quite a lengthy visit we decide we better make a move so we head to the car.
Next stop is Phantom Ship Overlook.
What a pretty place and isn’t this an incredible photo – even if I do say so myself. This little island is hidden against the Eastern Shore and escapes detection by many a tourist. Resembling a small pirate ship it is as tall as a 16 storey building and is made of erosion-resistant rock 400,000 years old.
It is the oldest exposed rock within the caldera. The typical tourist photo on the right shows the little ship through the trees – there are just so many photo opportunities – once again I thank whoever for inventing the digital camera!
Our last port of call is the Pinnacles Overlook. Detouring away from the rim we drive down an 11km spur road. We are not too sure what we will find – but it was recommended by the Ranger. When we get to the end of the road we have to walk a short distance down the Pinnacle Trail to see ‘The Pinnacles’.
These are a colourful collection of 30 metre spires being eroded from the canyon wall. The spires are fossil fumaroles each marking a site where volcanic gases rose through hot ash deposits, cementing the ash into more solid rock. They really are worthy of the detour.
This then concludes our tour of Crater Lake. If you haven’t already been there then do yourselves a favour and go. It really is that blue!
Feeling the pangs of hunger we head for North Entrance Road which means we have to go past Discovery Point and Wizard Island again.
That is no big drama as they can stand a second look. We find a diner a little ways out of Crater Lake and after much discussion we decide that instead of stopping at the Wildlife Safari tomorrow we will head for home today.
The down side is that it’s about a 5 hour drive – the good side is that we will be home tonight.
We head on up the highway with our little car happy at our decision. I bet it is thinking ‘after all this time I can finally get all this crap out of here and have a good rest’. We arrive home and decide to just unpack the main things.
Question is what are the main things – they all are! Kylie is glad to be home with her ‘children’ and we are all glad to be home and not have to worry about packing and unpacking anymore. Well, I still have to pack to go back to my ‘real home’ but that’s different.
Even though the driving trip is over I still have a couple of days before getting on the plane and flying back to Oz. I am sure that as we climb into our beds tonight we are thinking of our experiences – well I know I am.
We have had such a great holiday – yes – it was great. We have experienced the vastness and beauty of the American South West. We have gained an insight into the Native American Heritage and gone over John Wayne territory.
We have flown with Peter Pan and paid homage to Mr Walt Disney. We have seen such great places and we have done things we may never do again.
Highlight of the day: THAT LAKE!