2009 North to Alaska – Day 16

BANFF to GLACIER NATIONAL PARK – the road to the sun

Friday – we wake to a fine and beautiful morning.  Clear, blue skies, lovely bright flowers but what’s this?  Looking out our balcony window we spy a whole flock of ravens who have decided to have their breakfast from the garbage bins outside the hotel.  Well, that’s a bummer for sure.

Breakfast was another battle of the olds but we survive and are glad to escape – for the time being anyway.  After perusing the local maps and stuff at the hotel reception we decide we will go for a bit of a drive and see some of Banff National Park.  It does not seem very far – only about 5-10 minutes out of town and apparently it is highly recommended.  So we check out, pack the car and head off.

Arriving at the Park we see a sign that reads ‘Lake Minnewanka – the largest lake in Banff’.  Definitely have to see this one – named after Wankers of small stature – I am sure that there is another lake called Majorwanker for obvious reasons  just around the corner.

It is so serene and great for taking photos. Even though the weather is fine the water is definitely on the cold side – this being a glacial lake – but nevertheless there are men all scuba-ed up and ready to go for a dive.

Back in the car and we are stopped on the road by a herd of goats just ambling down the road.  Obviously they are out for the morning feed and their usual ‘how can we annoy the tourists today excursion’ .  Some have even decided to have a bit of a rest while we snap away.

Next stop is Two Jack Lake – why it is named Two Jack Lake is unknown to me – maybe discovered by two people whose name was Jack – and there is no explanation placard. Still surrounded by lake mountains and tall trees- it is very lovely.

We now head for today’s destination – Glacier National Park which is across the border and into the good ole’ USA.  Great scenery of mountains and trees but unfortunately the weather seems to be closing in with lots of low clouds.

Driving along the Trans Canada Highway we are heading towards Calgary – home to the 1988 Winter Olympics.  Calgary is not a stop on our journey but we will stop on the outskirts for lunch.  We spy a shopping complex with a Tim Horton’s so it’s all out and in for coffee and food.

This is our last Tim’s as we will soon be in the Good Ole Land and back to Starbucks.  After lunch we have a wander and I am lucky to spy a store that has a large collection of scrapbooking supplies.  Scrapbooking is pretty big over here – not so back home in Oz so I take the chance to add to the collection of things to take home for when I scrapbook my journey.

Getting organised in the car once again we hit the road and as we pass a bit more of the the outskirts of town I spy the Olympic ski jump used by those most heroic of men whose main ambition in life is to come hurtling down a humungous slope and then take off and fly like a bird.  It is not something that I would relish doing, however I must admit I like to watch the sport.  I get all excited to see this man-made wonder but this excitement is not shared by the other two.  Nevermind –

We leave the Rocky Mountains behind and our drive on the way out of Calgary brings land that is very flat and sparse – bit like Idaho.  Most disappointing to say the least.  Driving through the Plains of Calgary there are lots of ‘hay’ bales. These are one of Tyler’s favourite things. Everytime he sees them he yells ‘hay’ and then smiles.  Unfortunately it does nothing for Kylie and me.

We pass the township of Fort Macleod which was founded as a North-West Mounted Police barracks, and is named in honour of the North-West Mounted Police Colonel James Macleod.  The fort was built as a 70 by 70 meters square on October 18, 1874. The east side held the men’s quarters and the west side held those of the Mounties. Buildings such as hospitals, stores, and guardrooms were in the south end. Stables and the blacksmith’s shop were in the north end.  Just a little bit of trivia I thought I would throw in.

Next we see a very, very huge wind farm.  Must be 100’s of the windmills turning around – out here in the wide open spaces they look good.  In city environments I think they would be a pain in the proverbial.  Further down the track the land is still flat – still more bales of ‘hay’ but to break the monotony The Easybeats are beating away through the speakers.

Continuing to head South to the border, we finally reach the border and the queue up is long and taking forever.  I get my cameras ready for some snaps but Kylie tells me to put them away.  But while I am waiting I grab a photo of the sign – Kylie did not see me so that is good.

Getting to the head of the line we are greeted by the US Customs agent.  If this female was any sign of the lack of friendliness that was to greet us going back over the border then I am here to tell you that we were having second thoughts about staying in Canada.

We had to turn off the engine while she asked us questions all the while swallowing her lips with her lack of friendliness.  We hand over our passports to Agent Deliverance who by this time we agreed was definitely mentally challenged and had absolutely no people skills.  Not a smile – not a kind word – nothing.  Not even the customary question ‘are you carrying any weapons’. Typical of the ‘I have a job to do – I do not like it – so just deal with it!’  brigade that seems to take delight in pissing people off.  Well she succeeded.  Agent Deliverance stamps our passports and then throws them back to us and we are told to ‘move along’.

Now in Montana where we see the Rocky Mountains.  Hooray.  Highway is very straight and very flat so we have a change of music to calm us down – Ella Fitzgerald and her soothing melodies.

We drive past St Mary River and parts of St Mary Lake and a coffee stop called the Two Sisters Cafe which is situated out in the wilderness along the highway.  There is also a Native American encampment – is it real or for the tourists – unfortunately in our haste to get to Glacier National Park we do not stop to check it out.

We arrive at Glacier National Park and are welcomed by a sign that says Bear Country.  Oh really.  We have travelled all over to see bears and whales and have not seen either.  No, that is not entirely true – I did see the tail of a whale on our cruise.  Alighting and walking up to the St Mary’s visitor centre, the Ranger is pulling down the flag.  The centre is now closed, but we are allowed inside to have a look around and get some maps of the area.  We are also advised that there are road works along the way so we should expect delays in some areas.

As you can gather our travelling trio loves America’s National Parks.  We have even purchased a Park Pass which is good for 12 months so that will save us money in the long run with the amount of National Parks we will see.

It is a 50 mile drive along the Going to the Sun Road through the Park before we reach our accommodation for the night so we set off – map in hand.  No sooner do we enter the park before we are out capturing our Kodak moments.  What a great place.

First stop is St Mary Lake – it is very windy but not cold.  The scenery is of course breathtaking with the Lake so blue and the mountains in the background.  These mounts are called Triple Divide Peak.  Summit hikers on these peaks experience a vast alpine world; 360 degree panorama of glaciated peaks and wilderness valleys.  From the three sided pyramid, rain and snowmelt travel to three major river systems and enter the Pacific Ocean, Hudson Bay and the Gulf of Mexico.

Next up – Wild Goose Island.  Consulting our paperwork we are informed that this Island is one of the most frequently photographed spots in the park.  It is late in the afternoon and the sun is beginning to get low in the sky so it is flaring on the waters which makes it hard to take movies but I persist. I do manage to get a couple of still shots which I think look good.

Further down the road we get the chance to see St Mary Lake and Wild Goose Island in their splendour. From here the lake shows her true size with Wild Goose Island appearing as just a tiny dot somewhere out there in the blue.

We think of how great tomorrow is going to be when we have the chance to discover more of this park.   Next up is Jackson Glacier – we read on the signs posted that the Glaciers are disappearing because of ‘Global Warming’.  Personally I am not a believer in this – yes, the climate is changing just as it has for the past millions of years.  Anyway – back to the glorious scenery.

Back on the road – we come to a stop due to the saying ‘cars parked on the side of the road must mean wildlife about’ because there doesn’t seem to be anything else of interest.  This means that we get out of the car and take some more photos.

Tiny waterfalls cascading down the slope and after scouring the mountain sides wondering what we are looking at we are told by a lovely group of people that there are mountain goats up there.  Well, I cannot see any of the blessed creatures with the naked eye so out come the zoom lenses etc and this is what we see.  Those tiny little white specks are yep – the mountain goats.  How they keep their footing and not fall is beyond my thinking.  The lovely people also tell us that just around the corner is another waterfall with a rainbow shining through the cascading waters.

Always on the lookout for a Kodak moment we venture around the corner to see a lovely cascade with the rainbow as promised.  We are able to actually cup our hands and grab a mouthful – the water is so crisp and cold and oh-so refreshing.

Back on the road and we come to another stop.  Unfortunately it is not wildlife or wonderful views but the dreaded road works.   The queue is so long and it takes us about an hour to get to the top of it.  During this time we decide that because of the delay of the roadworks along the Going to the Sun Road we should give our journey back around this area a miss tomorow, and anyway we have seen everything along the road today.  We are escorted through this portion of the road by a Pilot Car and by now the lights are on not only our car but for the road workers as well.

Finally getting through the park we now have to find our hotel – The Glacier Vista Motel.  This Motel seemed really nice on the web when we booked – but we pull up out the front and see something that resembles a one level Bates Motel.  Crap – what is this?  Admittedly it is dark and we cannot see the place all that well but it still does not look too good.  We look at each other and the look says ‘I am not staying here’, but being adventurous and also out of time to find anything else we discover the reception area and it is locked.  Oh great.  A few knocks and we are greeted by a very friendly lady who is glad to see us.  We are checked in and during this time Kylie falls in love with her cat – so that’s a good sign I think.  She tells us that breakfast will be served from 7am and that the pool is open all night should we care to avail ourselves.  Bit chilly for me – so no thank you.

We ask about somewhere to get dinner and she tells us that the Diner down the road is good but they close at 9pm. Panic stations as we think it is nearly that time now.  This changing time zones is completely doing in my head.  Pacific Time, Mountain Time who knows.

We head off to our room in a rush to unload our gear and what a surprise – lots of inside alterations and wonderful hand made quilts which we discover later have been made by our lovely hostess.

Finding the Diner we race through the door only to discover that it is only 8pm.  The staff are amused and ask us where we are staying. We tell them The Vista Motel and they say ‘oh, Mary’s place’ and they laugh.  Apparently poor Mary does this to everyone.

We have a lovely relaxed dinner and buy some post cards  and then head back to our Motel.

On further examination, the beds are lovely and soft, everything is clean and the showers are strong and hot.  With our references to The Bates Motel, K&T take delight in teasing me with the screech out of Psycho when I am in the shower. Ha, some fun. I saw that movie when it first came out and it took me forever to be really relaxed while having a shower.

We jump into bed only to discover that the only down side of this place is that the trains go past on the other side of the highway – no big deal you say, but when they do they give four blasts on their horn.

Highlight of the day: St Mary Lake

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