WHEATLAND to JACKSON HOLE – time to become a cowboy

Wednesday – after the usual morning rituals we head for brekky but alas once again the Fakers have beaten us to it.  There is absolutely no room and to add insult to injury – there is no hot breakfast only cereals, danish and muffins so we get an assortment and take it back to our room.

We have an eight hour drive today with nothing planned.  Yes folks – you heard right – NOTHING PLANNED.  That however was to change –

The statue of the cowboy is still in attendance so grabbing the camera I get some happy snaps.  Apparently the guy that made it is towing it to Dallas (I think he said). His customer is supposedly very wealthy and he wants the statue to put out the front of his building.  It is an incredible work of art.

Back to the room – between eating and packing we soon have everything done and it’s time to check out and be on our way.  This hotel was not flash – but it was nice and comfortable.

Last night when we were researching ways and means to get to Jackson Hole,  Tyler brought it to our attention that Independence Rock was out this way.  Not one to miss an opportunity to learn more about history we put it in because we will most probably not come this way again!

It is a long drive to our piece of history and after three weeks our energy levels are just a tad drained, however with our goal in mind we get that spark back.  Kylie and I made a bet this morning.  Kylie said that when we get to Independence Rock Tyler will, pretending to be the one and only Sir Sean Connery, say  ‘Welcome to the Rock’.  In case you don’t know this was a movie starring Sir Sean and it was about Alcatraz – but that’s another lesson best left  to another time.  Because Tyler doesn’t have an idea of our bet we have an odd smirk every now and again which mystifies him.

On our way we pass many interesting little towns with even more so interesting town signs.  Around 3 hours later we stop at the town of Casper where we get our morning coffee fix and a quick bite.

Continuing we reach our destination – Indepence Rock.  HISTORY LESSON : Named for a fur trader’s Fourth of July celebration in 1830, this huge rock became one of the most famous of all Oregon Trail landmarks. The giant piece of granite is 1,900 feet long, 700 feet wide, and 128 feet high.  The landmark was a favorite resting place for travelers along the trail. Called the “Great Register of the Desert”, more than 5,000 names of early emigrant were carved on this boulder.  Starting the trail in the early spring, emigrants along the Oregon Trail hoped to reach Independence Rock by July 4, Independence Day. If they had not arrived by then, they knew they were behind schedule.

We grab our cameras and head off to explore.   It is just like Ayers Rock – or in these days of political correctness – Uluru.  This is another huge monolith in the middle of Australia – but we are not here to discuss that.

There is a small Visitor Centre – but there is no-one there nor are there any pamphlets – a couple of diagrams on the wall and that is it.  We read that it is best to stay on the pathways due to the rattlesnake population – no argument from me on that one and we set off.

We will take a leisurely stroll around the base so staying on the pathways we arrive.  Tyler has still not said the magic words and wonders why we are both looking at him.  Nevermind.  We see some early days graffiti but most of it is so worn with the weather it is hard to read.

After scouring the sides we are about half way round when Tyler decides to climb to the top.  Kylie and I look at each other and think no thank you.  The last thing I need is to come hurtling down after losing my footing.  So we bid Tyler safe trip and continue to take photos down the bottom.

Doing the usual trick of getting down close to the ground – yes, checking there are no little slithery things about – I like to get some sort of foregound plants in my photos.  I think is gives them a certain feeling.

It is so quiet here. What it was like for those who stopped at this spot on their way west is very hard to imagine.  Black at night except for moonlight – bitter in Winter, hot in Summer, there doesn’t seem to be any running water, just nothing.  Nothing except for what they had carried in their wagons.

When Tyler comes back down he tells us that he was disappointed that there were no carvings on the top.  Maybe by the time they got there they had no energy left?  My theory is that these people wanted those who came after them to see the names and most people would not climb to the top – so they scribbled them on the sides of the rock.

We come to a makeshift cemetery that is fenced. There is no sign, no markers – which is a shame. I don’t think that it was even mentioned at the Visitor Centre. Even when we get back home we cannot seem to find anything about it.

Maybe there is no information – maybe no-one knows who is there – maybe there are no records.  It just would have been nice to make mention of it somewhere.

Lazing around not far away are some wild deer just giving us the once over every now and again.  We also get to see either a bald eagle or a large hawk.  Too far away to be positive about what it is – at least it is wildlife.  Back on the trail again we complete our journey around the rock.

Heading back to the car Tyler says ‘Yes, Welcome ….. to The Rock’.  Kylie shrieks I WIN I WIN and we both double up with laughter. Tyler looks at us with utter amazement – he has no idea what is going on.  Kylie explains to him about our bet and he is not amused.  We have disintegrated by this stage and Tyler does manage a laugh – but not at the joke – at us.

Time to get the 4th member of our troupe in a photo.  On the left is the way the pioneers travelled – on the right is our poor little car laden with three weeks of souvenirs. I am sure it has more in it than what the wagons carried.  Getting back in the car – we head off down the highway.

Stopping for gas and the necessary pit stop at Fort Washakie, Chief Eagle Eye Tyler spots a sign reading ‘Sacagawea Grave Site’.  Now if you read the 2007 blog you will remember that Sacagawea was the Shoshonian lady who travelled with Lewis and Clark on their westward expedition. If you haven’t read it then click here and you can find out some more information about this incredible lady. You may also want to check out the Ken Burns DVD set of Lewis & Clark – The Journey of the Corps of Discovery, but I digress AGAIN.

We wonder if the sign is authentic but in true pioneer spirit we decide to chance it.  We finally reach what looks to be the Native American Cemetery and then we are on the search.  There doesn’t seem to be any signs but we do see a statue at the top of the hill.  By the time we climb to the top of the cemetery in the heat we are exhausted but alas THIS IS a statue of Sacagawea but it IS NOT her grave site.  However it seems to be very well cared for and there are lots of flowers and items left in remembrance.

Looking, looking we are lucky to have some satellite coverage and Chief Eagle Eye tells us that if we head toward the central part of the cemetery then we shall find 3 markers.

Two will be her sons Bazil and Jean Baptiste and one for the lady herself.  It is hard to stand here in these days of press button appliances and automation and realise that she had none of these luxuries.

She helped forge a way through the wilderness, had two children and then found her way back to her Shoshonian family all without the aid of an automated navigation system saying ‘in 300 metres turn left at the creek’!

We spend some time here not just at her gravesite but looking over the others as well.  Kylie and I love to walk through cemeteries, they have such interesting stories to tell.

Back on the road, the scenery is fabulous but we still have to finish our day’s trek to Jackson Hole.  Every now and again we spot a ranch snuggled up close to the range.  Considering there are no supermarkets around they must have a rather large supply in the pantry to get them through.

I’d like to know how they manage to store everything when they are snowed in.  Jackson Hole is about 3 hours away so we are keeping our fingers crossed and hoping there are no road works.  The sun is beginning to set as we arrive at the Grand Tetons.  This is on our itinerary for tomorrow as it is only a short drive from our lodgings.  Not far now and seeing that the day had nothing planned – we have not done too bad.

The sun is now nearly gone but the sky has the most incredible pink/orange hue.  Then we smell smoke – yep bushfires.  It would not be a Stansbury & Clarke expedition unless there were bushfires.

Still, it gives us some good Kodak moments – let’s just hope that it does not interfere with what we want to see in the park.

We reach our Cowboy Cabins about 7.30pm and the people welcome us – we had given them prior warning we may be a tad late – and they were fine with that.  We get our keys and head down the way and spy our little log cabin with a verandah and a bbq.  Whacko!  We pull up out the front, say hello to the neighbours who are on their verandah enjoying the evening not to mention a bottle of wine, and decide we better get some dinner.  We also decided that we will have a barbie brekky in the morning.

Into town we go to the supermarket and get our provisions – bread, butter, bacon, sausages, eggs, juice and of course bbq fuel and matches.  We also decide that we will get some cold meat, salads, rolls and drink to take with us tomorrow instead of floundering around in the park looking for a restaurant – seems like a great idea to me.  We do not buy a lot as when we leave we will not be able to take it with us – we do not have an esky or a fridge.  Maybe a car fridge is on the agenda for the next Road Trip?

By the time we get back to our Cowboy Cabin it is about 10.30pm and we are bushed.  We stow the supplies, put the drinks in the freezer – shower and get into bed.  There is the main bedroom area at the back of the cabin with two queen beds – Kylie and I have these and as Chief Eagle Eye wants to watch some TV he takes the pull out couch.

We decide to get up about 6.30am (WHAT!!!) so that we have plenty of time to get our bbq brekky and head out about 8am.  Sure – we will. Another plan that will never see the light of day.

It is so quiet and as soon as I get into bed I am off with Sacagawea and the Corps of Discovery!

Highlight of the day : paying our respects to a great lady – Sacagawea.