THE GRAND TETONS – scenery and wildlife

Thursday – a most restful night’s sleep to say the least.  The Cowboy Village Resort is so quiet – that is until the alarm goes off!  Kylie is out of bed first, full of enthusiasm to cook our barbie brekky.  The skies are blue and the sun is shining so we all look forward to a wonderful day in the Grand Tetons.

After Kylie showers she heads towards the bbq – but she is looking rather perplexed. How do we get the fire started?  Another child of the press button age, I tell her to put the coals in with a couple of the firelighters and then light them.  We get our fire started and the smoke is heading towards the inside of the cabin.  Kylie goes inside to try and close the windows but before she does the fire alarm goes off.  Holy crap does it have to be so loud?

Tyler is out of the shower and finally gets the thing turned off and we are inside fluffing towels to get the smoke outside.  By this time the Manager arrives and asks  is everything OK. He tells us not to worry – it happens all the time.  Our faces are as red as the flames and it is just as well we didn’t start cooking at 6am – that would have been a hoot for everyone around.

Finally our brekky is cooked and we sit outside and just enjoy not only the food but the entire place.  We do get looks that say ‘idiots for setting off the alarm’ but we don’t care – we sit and smile at them and eat another piece of bacon and toast.

After we clear up our barbie brekky – it’s time to hit The Tetons.  It is rather a novelty getting into an empty car as all our treasures are inside the cabin.  We arrive at the entrance gate – flash our pass – which is great and we are given maps and directions to the Visitor Centre.  What a friendly man – he is definitely not related to Ms Deliverance on the border!  Welcome to the Grand Teton National Park.

We arrive at the Craig Thomas Visitor and Discovery Centre where we find  in depth maps, displays, helpful Rangers and this fabulous carving.  It seems to sense that the three of us have arrived and is saying welcome to our home. Of course Kylie says she is the one sleeping and no one disagrees.

There are also Ranger Tours that we can book.  I think it is always extra good to travel with someone who can give you a personal feeling for the place which is better that just reading about it in books.   We will see the ecosystems and animals – that’s the clincher – animals.  They don’t say what kind but seeing that elk, moose, bear and beavers are in the park, well, who knows so we sign up and are thoroughly looking forward to it.  There is no charge which is good – and we decide that we will do the late afternoon tour.     But it is time to get a move on so with trusty map in hand we continue.

Our first stop is Teton Glacier Turnout. Teton Glacier is a mountain glacier located below the north face of Grand Teton. It is surrounded by Mount Owen to the west and by Teewinot Mountain to the north, which comprise the peaks of the Cathedral Group. Teton Glacier is the largest of the twelve named glaciers in the park. The glacier is approximately 3,500 ft (1,100 m) long and 1,100 ft (340 m) wide.

The white spot to the right of the photo nearly above the little tree is the glacier.  This mountain range is a popular place for hikers and climbers but one always has to be careful of Mother Nature.  There have been quite a few fatalities on this range – one climber has fallen the day before our visit and during the day we hear helicopters above in the search and rescue mission.  Unfortunately, it is not a good end to this story.

In all the National Park viewing areas we have stopped there is a good turnout area.  Lots of car parking and ample opportunity to get those fabulous Kodak moments.  As it is only early we are lucky and have arrived here early enough to have the place to ourselves.  We can even go for a little wander through the scrub, being ever so mindful that it could be someone’s home – we stay on the trails. It is so quiet – until the engine of a tourist bus and the gaggle of its inhabitants invade so it’s time for us to bid farewell and head for the next stop.

Cascade Canyon – gateway to the Alpine region.  The canyon was formed by glaciers which retreated at the end of the last glacial period approximately 15,000 years ago. Today, Cascade Canyon has numerous glaciers as evidence that demonstrate that glaciers once filled the canyon to a depth of at least 2,000 feet (610 m). The Cascade Canyon Trail  follows the length of the canyon and is one of the most heavily used hiking trails in the park.  The photo on the tourist sign shows a lake but I’ll be damned if I can see one.  Maybe it dried up?

I think we are going to be followed by the tourist bus – here they come again.  Nevermind, we realise they are on a tight schedule so we will let them do what they have to do and we will enjoy the scenery.  The only schedule we are on is that we have to be at the Visitor Centre to meet Mr Ranger at 4.30pm.

Fault Scarpe and The Cathedral Group.  Well – we found the lake.  This pristine area is called Jenny Lake and from our side we can see the mountains in the photo above. From left to right – Teewinot Mountain, the Grand Teton and Mount Owen.

There are a set of stairs (definitely not OH&S approved) down to the water so we take the chance on the narrow, rocky pathway and when we get to the bottom we are glad we did.

It is so quiet and the three of us head off in different directions to do our own thing.  That is a good thing when we travel, we respect each others initiative to go it alone.

I find some nice rocks to just sit and experience this view.  The lake is so calm and to sit in the shade is wonderful.  I could just dive in and have a swim but then I remember that this is most probably a glacial lake and one could say it would not be warm.  I’ll just stay on the shore thank you.

While we are sitting in silence every tourist around must have seen us enjoying ourselves and thought ‘aha let’s put a stop to that’.  Sometimes I think we are Tourist Trailblazers as when we arrive everyone is just standing around like logs and then we do something different and they seem to follow  It’s like having our own travelling troupe of lemmings!

Nevermind – we will mosey on down the trail while everyone else gets to the bottom and thinks – it is only rocks and water – why did they come down here?

There are so many spots to take the Kodak moments so we utilise our ‘lemming free’ time and do just that before arriving at Jackson Lake.

Let me say this lake is huge. The water is so blue – but I think that is because the sky is so blue.  It is not the blue of Crater Lake but a more, well look for yourself.  The surface is not broken by the slightest movement.  There are a few people here walking around and taking photos but they do not seem to detract from the calmness of the place.

This lake is also part of the Jackson Lake Dam and Reservoir.  To the right going downstream there are many campervans and RV’s parked doing some fishing.  So looks like it could be a good spot.  Pity I don’t have a line with me I maybe could have caught some fish for a bbq dinner tonight.

As Kylie says in her blog – ‘this is all very nice but it is not Yellowstone’ and I have to agree. We decide to head for home on the downside of the loop where we visit Oxbow Bend.

Now this is a famed spot for seeing all sorts of animals and birdlife.  Elk, moose, osprey, otters, beavers etc etc.  But obviously these creatures have not read the tourist brochures and after staying here, wandering up and down the bank and even sitting still for ages, not one comes to say hello.

I have come to the conclusion that ALL wildlife be they four footed, finned or flyers are in cahoots with NatGeo.  Surely there is more wildlife around than what we have seen in this trip.  Walking back to the car to continue our journey we see lots of signs that say ‘Wildlife on the Road’. I get excited because I think this is where they are – not Oxbow Bend – but on the road.  But I am here to tell you that the signs lie.

We decide to go back to our cabin for a Nanna Nap and to charge the camera batteries before the big Ranger Tour this arvo.  On the way back we see the bushfire smoke in the distance and hope and pray that it will not effect our Yellowstone Adventure tomorrow.

Awaking refreshed we make sure to collect all the cameras and batteries, jackets etc and we are on our way.  We are in plenty of time to meet Mr Ranger and he explains what he hopes we will see.  Oh-ho – he’s not the only one hoping.  We will also get lots of photo opportunities. Unfortunately, in every group there is always one ‘I know everything trashy tourist’.   She is oh so very bombastic so I will call her Miss Bomb for short.  She is really going to annoy the tripe out of us so we decide that we will do our own thing and keep away.  Mr Ranger asks us to get into our cars and follow him – a Le Mans start – and I am pleased to say that Kylie is off and running and we are first car behind Mr Ranger. This does not set well with Miss Bomb who is driving a dirty big tank.  Oh well, big mouth – big car. Seems to fit.

Our first stop is to see some prong horn antelope – but we are too far away to get really good photos.  The smoke seems to be heading our way – great.  Next stop – buffalo. We get to the end of the roadway at the Triangle X Ranch and can get out and take photos – doesn’t look really natural but hey – a buffalo is a tatonka so out we get.  We are warned about not doing anything to startle them and to remain this side of the fence.

When we speak to Mr Ranger he advises us that the fires in Yellowstone are now so bad that they are using Pilot Cars to escort people. Great!  So not only is one of the major roads closed – which we knew about – we have bushfires at West Thumb to deal with.  Oh stuff it – will think about that tomorrow just enjoy today.

After taking numerous photos our next stop is to see some beavers.  The sun is setting so Mr Ranger wants to get us there before we lose the light.  When we get into our car Kylie reverses to follow Mr Ranger and all of a sudden Miss Bomb who wants to be first, cuts us off and nearly runs into our car.  This is going to be great. Kylie is furious and is screaming at this piece.  We try and calm her down and by the time we arrive at the beaver dam at Schwabacher Road she seems to have settled – but she has a long memory and so do I.  On the way we get some great photos of the sun highlighted by the bushfires.  Pretty eh but devastating to some.

Anyway back to the beavers.  We park our car – right away from Miss Bomb and we approach the dam.  What a pretty place and Mr Ranger has told us all to be quiet so that we do not disturb the beavers and other creatures.  That is going to be near impossible for Miss Bomb unless someone has a roll of gaffer tape concealed on their person.  As we get to the dam there is a little clearing on the path and Kylie spies a squirrel.  Being very quiet so as not to frighten the sweet little thing she manages to get a couple of photos – I am standing back – and then as she adjusts the camera setting – yep the partner of Miss Bomb which explains it all – Kylie calls him Mr Knob-tastic comes crashing through with the subtlety of a Sherman Tank and says ‘what’s going on, what are you looking at’.

I’m telling you that if Kylie or I had a weapon then we would have used it.  Kylie’s eyes are flashing red.   It’s a miracle that the poor little squirrel  didn’t just keel over with its little paws in the air.  On second thoughts it has most probably gone home to call 911 for heart massage.  Really, some people should be taken out of the gene pool. This is a nature walk not manouevers through the Black Forest. Can’t they go slow – can’t they have some idea of what is going on?  Obviously Mr Knob and Miss Bomb have no consideration for anyone except themselves.

Mr Knob is only saved by Mr Ranger saying that one of the beavers is coming.

The light is fading quickly so we endeavour to get some beaver snaps – I take video Kylie takes stills so this photo is hers.

They are just the cutest things and this little one goes back and forward up the river swimming its way through  some ducks.  With the lack of light it’s really hard to get clear photos but we do our best and anyway we have had the pleasure of experiencing a visit with Mr or Mrs Beaver.

Photo on the left is taken by Kylie – one on the right by me.  Just goes to show how the sky changes within a short span of time and a different angle.

We still have one more stop but Mr Ranger tells us that because of the light we may not get to see any elk. He’s right on that one.  When we reach Windy Point Turnout it is black as pitch.  We do not see any elk but we can certainly hear them.  Mr Ranger tells us that if we get up early in the morning we will most probably be able to see them on their early morning graze.

Just when you thought it was safe – Kylie walks past Miss Bomb and utters the immortal phrase ‘f***ing idiot’ and then heads to our car.  Miss Bomb turns around to reply with something very clever I am sure – and then cops a mouthful from me – she realises she is definitely out of her league and decides to make a hasty retreat with Mr Knob.  We sit and watch them take off as if they are marching through Georgia – we just look at each other as if to say – yep, f***ing idiots – both of them.

As we are driving along – slowly I might add as it is really dark, discussing our dinner options  – – a herd of elk come hurtling across the road.  Holy Cow – or should I say Holy Elk!  Kylie slams on the brakes and we all sit there stunned.  These creatures are huge – and to hit one would have certainly put an end to our holiday for sure.  We stay silent and still for the time, practicing our deep breathing before heading off at approximately 5kph.  Now I know how that squirrel felt!

It is about 9pm when we get back to Jackson Hole – we take a quick drive through the town and then head off home as we want to get up early in the morning to see elk and/or moose as we head to Yellowstone.  We arrive safe and sound – our little car breathes a sigh of relief and we head for showers and bed.  We either write in our journal, read a book or listen to iPods before we decide to put the head down and nod off.  Doesn’t take much – –

Highlight of the day : just being at one with nature