FLORENCE – statues and piazzas
Wednesday – after our monumental tour of the Basilica Santa Croce where we are trying to digest everything that we saw – thank God for digital cameras – we find ourselves, after a short walk, standing in the centre of the Piazza della Signoria – a town square surrounded by incredible buildings, statues from history, cafes and the many, many ever present tourists.
Piazza della Signoria has been the hub of Florence’s political life since the Republic at the end of the 15th Century. This L-shaped square is surrounded by its most famous buildings. Among them, the Palazzo Vecchio (pictured here) home of the Florentine government, the Galleria degli Uffizi and the Ponte Vecchio. There is also a reproduction of Michelangelo’s David and the Fountain of Neptune by Bartolomeo Ammannati.
Our first encounter is the Fountain of Neptune. HISTORY LESSON : the Fountain of Neptune has been standing proudly in Piazza since 1575, having taken 10 years to complete.
Neptune, one of Florence’s favourite sculptures to hate, was carved by Michelangelo’s apprentice Bartolomeo Ammannati. Created as a tribute to Cosimo I’s naval ambitions it was nicknamed by the Florentines Il Biancone, “Big Whitey.” (Sounds like a gangster from the 1920’s!)
Michelangelo, to whom many a Renaissance quip is attributed, took one look at it and shook his head, moaning “Ammannato, Ammannato, what a beautiful piece of marble you’ve ruined.” To add insult to injury the locals began to use the fountain to wash their clothes.
A sad reminder of the human tragedy that the Neptune is actually a copy of the original and was made in the 19th century. The original is safe and sound inside the National Museum. As we walk around the Fountain taking photos from every angle I realise that there are so many other items that require my attention. The Medici Florentine Lions; the Statue of Cosimo i de’ Medici and there are oh so many more. K&T have taken off to explore so I am let loose to wander this magnificent area and soak up the history.
To the right of the Neptune Fountain is a long, raised platform fronting the Palazzo Vecchio known as the arringheria, from which soapbox speakers would lecture to crowds before them (we get our word “harangue” from this). We will start our walk around the Piazza from this point.
Donatello’s Marzocco (left) is on the far left corner of the arringheria and is a copy of symbol of the city – a Florentine lion resting his raised paw on a shield emblazoned with the city’s emblem – the lily.
The centre photo is Giambologna’s equestrian statue of Cosimo I de’Medici (12 June 1519 – 21 April 1574). Cosimo was Duke of Florence from 1537 to 1574, reigning as the first Grand Duke of Tuscany from 1569.
On the right is a copy of Donatello’s Judith beheading Holofernes. The Book of Judith tells how Judith saved her people by seducing and killing Holofernes, the Assyrian general. Judith gets Holofernes drunk then seizes his sword and cuts off his head which makes for a nice bedtime story.
Moving to the right I find myself face to face with a copy of Michelangelo’s David.
The last statue in this group is that of Hercules and Cacus. It does not in my opinion have the character nor the fire of David, it seems to be a statue devoid of soul and feeling. The statue dates to 1508 when a marble block was ordered for Michelangelo to carve as a counterpart to the David. However, the marble was not delivered until 1525 and was given to Bandinelli as Michelangelo was working on the Medici Chapel.Bandinelli’s first model was incompatible with the block but he continued on the project through the 1527 expulsion of the Medici. In 1528, with the republicans in control, Michelangelo was given the block for a Samson and Philistine but after the Medici return in 1530 he was instructed to resume work in the chapel and Bandinelli was to continue.
After seeing it installed in the vast Piazza, Bandinelli concluded that the muscles were “too sweet” and further exaggerated it. The basic theme of victor over vanquished seems forced and devoid of tension in comparison to Michelangelo’s Victory. In trying to outdo the David, it is rigidly posed and the facial grimaces are like deeply drilled caricatures.
Moving to the right and across the little alleyway is the Loggia dei Lanzi. This is another of Florence’s historical monuments and is known by this name because it is where, in 1527, the Lanzichenecchi set up camp on their way towards Rome. Such a small area, it houses more famous sculptures of Florence.
HISTORY LESSON : Erroneously attributed to Andrea di Cione, known as Orcagna, it was then recognised as the work of his brother Benci di Cione and Simone Talenti. Built to host the numerous public assemblies of the Florentine Republic (1376-1382), in a Gothic style, it features the innovation of round arches, typical of the Renaissance period.
These three statues in the Loggia I think are the best. On the left is the bronze statue of Perseus which is considered the highlight. Holding a sword which was a gift from Mercury, he holds high the head of Medusa.
The statue in the centre is that of the forcible abduction of Polyxena by Achilles. The warrior encircles the form of the maiden with his left arm, while his right is uplifted and in its hand is a sword with which he is about to strike down the mother, Hecuba, who, kneeling at his feet, implores his mercy while she clings piteously to her child and the betrayer.
The statue on the right is ‘Hercules slaying the Centaur Nessus’. It was created in 1599 but only added to the loggia in 1841.
On the steps of the Loggia are the Medici lions. The two sculptures were placed at the Villa Medici in Rome around 1600 and since 1789 have been displayed here. The two male lions are standing with a sphere under one claw, looking to the side.
As you stand at the bottom of the entrance the lion on the right originates from a 2nd century (BC) marble relief which was reworked by Giovanni di Scherano Fancelli in 1598.
The lion on the left pictured here, also of marble, was sculptured between 1570 and 1590 by Flamino Vacca.
The three of us meet up again and decide it is time for something to eat. We think how nice it would be to sit at one of the outdoor cafes that border the Piazza and after looking at a few menus make our decision – the Letizia Caffeteria. It had a large patio area out front where we could dine and in reality it is quite a nice spot. Venturing into the place to order however, is another story. We are lucky to find a table tucked away in the corner and then decide that I will go in first to order and K&T would ‘mind’ the table.
As I lined up in front of the counters looking at what I wanted – the serving staff were quite pushy and rude and I felt that I was being made to order quickly and move along so that they could serve someone else and make some more money. I order a plate of fruit and a large glass of Coke and then I head to the cash register to pay. Yikes – very expensive – 19 euro.
So back outside and wait for the waiter to bring it out and K&T take their turn. On their return they report the service was no better and after waiting for quite some time the waiter brings out my food and I have been given practically a litre and a half of Coke. Oh well, at least it is full of ice so that’s a good thing and it does provide us all with a laugh.
After we have eaten and rested we feel ready to go discovering again so we head back in the general direction of our apartment which leads us back to the Duomo and the Baptistry so of course more Kodak moments.
The queue for the Duomo is still long so we give that a miss which in hindsight was an error in judgement. Most everything in Europe has a booking arrangement for certain times, but alas, the Duomo is free, Yep something in Europe for free and consequently the lines are v-e-r-y long as you can see in the photo.
The colours of the buildings take on a different perspective in the day with the blue sky background. The pinks and greens along with the paintings and intricate carvings all come to life.
Seeing that we have given the Duomo a miss we head for the Baptistry which is also free admission but the lines are not long. The photo on the right will give you an idea of the proximity of the Baptistry to the Duomo and the Campanile. Everything in Florence is so central it is great.
The Baptistry shown in the front of the photo, is an octagonal building, and one of the oldest buildings in the city, built between 1059 and 1128. The architecture is in Florentine Romanesque style.
First up before we go inside we see Ghiberti’s Gates of Paradise. The panels are a richly decorated gilt framework of foliage and fruit, many statuettes of prophets and 24 busts. The two central busts are portraits of the artist and of his father, Bartolomeo Ghiberti.
Michelangelo referred to these doors as fit to be the “Gates of Paradise” and they are still invariably referred to by this name. Ghiberti himself said they were “the most singular work that I have ever made”.
So it’s on with the Rick Steves Audio Guide again and away we go – –
The inside of the Baptistry is practically empty except for the pews, a baptismal font (Dante was baptised here), some large candle sticks, a couple of funerary monuments and a small altar. The main highlight is the mosaic ceiling – which includes including the Last Judgement. More details can be found on this link, and that way I don’t have to go into another history lesson.
Considering that some of the mosaics date from 1225 it is in immaculate condition and obviously has already gone through the restoration process – that’s a plus!
You have to admit that it is incredible. The best views are when you lay down on the pews (no feet on seats please) and that way you don’t get a sore neck and you can get some great photos.
This font was installed here in 1128.
Dante is said to have broken one of the lower basins while rescuing a child from drowning.
The font was removed in 1571 on orders from the Grand Duke Francesco I de’Medici. The present, and much smaller, octagonal font stands near the south entrance. It was installed in 1658 but is probably much older.
OK that’s enough of the historical side for the time being, it’s on to fresh air, shopping and the Ponte Vecchio.
The Florence Straw markets are a treasure trove of fine Florentine leather and it is here that both Kylie and I meet our downfall. Oh so many beautiful leather bags which ones to choose? To cut a long story short – I get one and Kylie gets two.
Also at the Market is the worldwide famous boar (Porcellino) that tourists who are visiting the city have always had the habit of touching the snout for good luck.
According to popular tradition, if you rub the nose of the statue, you’re guaranteed to make it back to Florence at some point in your life. Needless to say, the snout is very, very shiny and I give it an extra big rub!
But before we get carried away – this is a replica of the original boar.
The snout of the original (cast in 1634) deteriorated to the point that the Fine Arts Superintendence decided to replace the boar with an identical copy cast by the Ferdinando Marinelli Artistic Foundry.
Little bit of trivia – this statue also featured in Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows Part II. Saying goodbye to the Porcellino – our last stop for the day is the Ponte Vecchio which is along the pedestrian zone south of Piazza della Repubblica towards Palazzo Pitti.
The bridge is resplendent in the gold of the setting sun and it seems only fitting as there are many goldsmith shops on the bridge. These came into being when the Medici’s closed the butcher shops that had monopolised the bridge since 1442 and used to dispose of their offals in the river (yuk).
HISTORY LESSON : built very close to the Roman crossing, the Old Bridge was, until 1218, the only bridge across the Arno in Florence. The current bridge was rebuilt after a flood in 1345.
When the Medici moved from Palazzo Vecchio to Palazzo Pitti, they decided they needed a connecting route from the Uffizi to the Palazzo Pitti on the other side of the Arno that would enable them to keep out of contact with the people they ruled. The result was the Corridoio Vasariano, built in 1565 by Vasari and which runs above the little goldsmiths’ shops on the Ponte Vecchio.
During World War II it was the only bridge across the Arno that the fleeing Germans did not destroy. Instead they blocked access by demolishing the medieval buildings on each side. On November 4, 1966, the bridge miraculously withstood the tremendous weight of water and silt when the Arno once again burst its banks.
Walking across the bridge I discover the ‘Golden River’ which refers to the little goldsmith’s shops that line the bridge. They are just like jewellery chests that lower their awnings at the end of the day.
Once again looking for a gold charm that says ‘Florence’ I find exactly what I want. The Dome of the Duomo so another purchase is made.
Back across the bridge and heading for home there are many artists doing chalk drawings on the streets. They are incredibly talented and we throw a couple of euros in their collection plates.
We finally get back to the apartment – this day has been full on so to speak and our little tootsies are practically on fire. After a short rest in the cool and serenity of our beds we decide that it is time for food again so we head out to a little place we saw last night.
I get bruschetta and salad; lasagna and a glass of wine all for 9 euro. The food was good and as we sit in the cool of the night enjoying our wine we look forward to tomorrow’s excursion to Pisa.
Highlight of the day : Santa Croce