ROME – Ave Cesare – those who are about to die salute you!

Saturday – my oh my – standing in front of the Colosseum and another dream realised. Sometimes you just have to stand by yourself and ponder on how on earth did they built that? Unfortunately there are not many ponderers – only tourists ambling to their next best vantage spot and vendors selling cold water and umbrellas (as you can see in the photo).  Still there is enough space for us three to ponder and appreciate the elegance and history of this building.

In the photo above you can see the ticket line which is so long.  Fortunately for us, we have booked our Tour Tickets and we can bypass standing in line – the down side is that we still have to go through security – although this is not a big problem and once through I get a feeling of how the Romans felt when they were anticipating the days events.

We have about two hours to amble around inside and explore before our Dungeons of the Colosseum tour.  As the dungeons are not part of the normal admittance tickets we decided that we would like to see where the gladiators etc prepared for the sensational events that took park in this arena and even though we have read and seen many documentaries we would also like to have a guide maybe enlighten us further.

The photo on the right is our first view after we enter.  This was one of many passages leading up to the main arena and as you can see it is in a state of ruin, but we will not dwell on ruins – we will imagine the glory days.

Take the time to get one of the free audio guides – they are great and at every numbered stop they point out more ‘hidden’ treasures.  I must admit though it is sometimes a bit of a juggling act as I try to listen and take photos at the same time.

There are hundreds of Kodak moments but this is one place that you MUST stop snapping  at every turn and pay attention to the detail (yes I know; but take it from me you definitely cannot do both) and in saying that there are many pieces of columns strategically placed on which you can sit without doing damage to them or yourself.

HISTORY LESSON :  The Colosseum is probably the most famous landmark in Rome.

(I cannot believe that I am really standing here and looking at this – but back to the lesson -)

Built in the 1st century AD under Emperor Vespasian, this great arena could seat 45,000 spectators and was the largest Roman amphitheatre in the world.  It hosted gladiatorial combats and spectacles with wild beasts.  

Throughout the Middle Ages, the Colosseum was believed to be a place of martyrdom and was therefore regarded as a sacred place, however no evidence of Christians ever being slaughtered here has been found – the slaughter was done at Nero’s Circus Maxima.

It is cool down here just sitting on the stones but we must venture onward and upward to begin our Colosseum experience.  We decide to hike up to the second level and have a good look around before we go down to Level 1 where we have to meet our guide but I digress.

The three of us split up to do our own thing and walking around Level 2, juggling cameras and the audio guide and stopping every now and again in the shade – the temperature has risen to ignition status – I can imagine the thousands of Romans cheering and then I remember that they had large covers over them to protect them from the sun so of course it would be no problem for them to sit all day – maybe I can write to someone and suggest they put the covers back!  Just a thought.

As in the photo above on the right there has been some sort of restoration to the seating to give us an idea – all I can say is that I hope they had nice thick cushions as I would not like to be sitting on marble all day long!

From one of the little alcoves that the other tourists have not discovered I get some great views of the Arch of Constantine.

HISTORY LESSON : After years of civil war, the victory of Constantine’s army over the numerically superior army of Maxentius at the Battle of Milvian Bridge in 312 AD brought some peace to the Roman Empire. 

To commemorate this victory, the Senate of Rome awarded Constantine a triumphal arch that was dedicated just a few years later, in 315 AD.  The large arch with 3 archways is almost 26 meters wide and 21 meters high. During construction, many parts from older structures were reused, which was common practice at the time. The statues at the top were taken from the Forum of Trajan. They depict Dacian captured soldiers, defeated by the Trajan army.

Behind the Arch is the Roman Forum where the other two remaining Imperial Arches remain – the Arch of Titus and the Arch of Septimus Severus, but more about those in our Forum visit.

Time to leave my little shady spot and head to the next where some more great views can be had.  This is the Forum with the Arch of Titus at the top of the walkway and on the right the Temple of Venus and Roma.

The next shady stop is the Exhibition of Nero being housed inside the walkways.  This exhibition is being held at three venues; the Palatine Museum, the Roman Forum and here at the Colosseum.  The details read ‘the exhibition shows the many faces of the cruel emperor and is an attempt to rehabilitate him.

Many aspects of his life are shown: he and his family, his huge Domus Aurea, his need for luxury, his cruelty, his cultural achievements.  Jewels and sculptures of his time are also shown.  This ‘revisionist’ exhibition of the Roman emperor underlines that he can’t be blamed for burning down his home city’.

But on the other side it also shows his cruelty’.  It then goes on to list a few of his sadistic and cruel acts but let’s not go there.

Let’s just say he wasn’t a very nice person.  Let’s also say that there is not many items showing Nero himself in this part of the exhibition.

This boars head is from the top of a column located in Nero’s Golden Palace which no longer exists.

Time is getting on and we have to meet our guide at the large cross on the first level – see photo on the left.

The Colosseum was threatened with demolition by Sixtus V for town-planning reasons but it was declared a sacred monument dedicated to the Passion of Christ by Benedict XIV, placing a cross on a pedestal, as a symbol of the sufferings of all Christian martyrs.

Since then, it has become an object of worship for Christians and was protected from further destruction and ruin; in fact, Popes after that restored and consolidated it.  This cross is still the starting point for the Stations of the Cross on Good Friday.

Waiting at the cross our guide arrives and we have only a small number in our group.  The number of people allowed in the lower levels are limited and after a little talk we head off with the guide unlocking gateways and tourists jealously eyeing us.

This is our first stop – the floor of the arena.  We get a gladiator’s eye view of what they would see when they entered the arena.  Well, not exactly what they would see, you have to use your imagination for that but you can get the general idea.

The floor was once made of wood but that disappeared years ago only to be replaced by a portion to show how it looked.

The highly ostentatious opening ceremony, lasted one hundred days during which people saw great fights, shows and hunts involving the killing of thousands of animals (5000 according to the historian Suetonius). For the opening, the arena space was filled with water for one of the most fantastic events held in Roman times, naumachias – real sea battles reproducing great battles of the past.

That would have been one helluva show and would leave all the modern day rock shows for dead – not to mention it was free admittance for all Roman citizens!

The photo of the hole in the ground is where large wooden columns with lifts and pulleys were placed that would enable scenery and wild animals to be hoisted into the arena.  Each hole was numbered – this one is VIII which is number 8.

The most popular of all were the battles between the gladiators.  The gladiators came from an underground passageway linked directly to the barracks and were welcomed by fans like real heroes.  After a brief walk around the arena, the gladiators paid homage to the Emperor’s stage saluting with the famous words “Ave Cesare morituri te salutant” (Hail Caesar, those who are about to die salute you).

The all too quick tour of the ‘Dungeons’ is over as there are still many tours after us – so now we head outside for the top level. My knee is acting up so I ask the guide if I can get the elevator up to the top level.  The lift is only for special cases – I think I am one – and as soon as the guide says yes, Mr Hypochondriac (there is always one idiot in the group) wails about his back.  Strange he hasn’t complained about it so far as he raced around up and down everything.  So we both get into the lift where I am bombarded about his alleged canoe accident (visions of Deliverance come to mind) and thankfully it is not a long ride.

Escaping the elevator to meet the group this wonderful sign greets me. I think to myself ‘is it any wonder the Roman Empire fell?’

This top level has only been open for a short time and only to people in tours so we make the most of it.

I thought the views from Level 2 were great.  The views of the interior and of the surrounding areas are quite fabulous! Even though it is still quite hot the breeze is lovely and of course we are allowed to wander around and take photos.

 As you can see the afternoon is getting away from us and the sun is setting on another glorious day at the Colosseum.

After the more than usual amount of photos have been taken we make our way back down the stairs – yes Mr Canoe seems to manage well – and while going down we are passed by another group coming up.

Back through the ‘dungeons’ and out through the Gladiator’s walkway for our last emotion of gladiatorial splendour and our tour is over.  We thank our guide – they do not take tips (even better) and we make our way to what we think is the exit but it is the entrance – the attendants will not let us out – they tell us the exit is around the other side so as if we haven’t walked enough we now have to walk some more.

Time to head back to the apartment for a well deserved rest and then we will figure out what we will do later this evening.

Going to the supermarket in our little street we get some more groceries and then decide we are hungry.  Dining at the local eatery aptly named – Ristorante S. Anna – we sit outside in the evening air – but that means we are sitting in the street which is not very wide and every now and again a little car or vespa tootles by.

Enough to make us have another slurp of alcohol.

It is nice just sitting and relaxing and I have one of the best meals so far – the Entree which was plated up buffet style inside and you could choose what you wanted – mine consisted  of rosemary potatoes, baked capsicums, breaded onions and herbed zucchini not to mention the baby octopus for Kylie.

The main meal was veal scallops in lemon sauce – this was truly delicious.  Wish I could cook like that.

After our meal it’s back home – about a 5 minute walk – and then shower and early into bed because we have another full day tomorrow.

Wish I had bought the bottle of Amaretto at the supermarket. Only 14 euros, come to think of it should have bought two!

Highlight of the day – walking in the footsteps of Spartacus!