ROME – of angels and forums
Sunday – instead of waking to the pealing of church bells in la bella Roma we hear the sounds and snarls of traffic in the not too distant surrounds. Did I mention that our apartment is in the Largo Torre Argentina which is one of the busiest transport areas in Rome? The saying goes ‘all roads lead to Rome’ well it should have said ‘all trams leave from Torre Argentina’ – not to mention emergency sirens! But we are here so we make the most of it.
My brekkie consists of toast, vegemite, juice, coffee and a banana. In anticipation of the days events we pack our lunch or wraps with ham, lettuce & cheese and of course we have done our own frozen water bottles – we are prepared. Even leaving the apartment early in the morning the day is starting out quite warm nevertheless we are on our way.
I must apologise now because it is hard to describe what I see in Rome without giving some sort of history lesson. I will try to be brief with these but if you have read any of my other posts, my sense of briefness is nearly always mission impossible. But we will press on and see where the roads of Rome take us.
Down the little street, across the tram tracks and we are at Largo di Torre Argentina. Strange how the most interesting of ruins pop up when you least expect them. About 5 minutes from our apartment we walked past these yesterday and after doing a bit of research we find that this is the square in which Caesar was assassinated. How great is that? The Theatre of Pompey is on the right of the photo.
HISTORY LESSON : The assassination of Julius Caesar was the result of a conspiracy by approximately 60 Roman senators who called themselves Liberators. Led by Gaius Cassius Longinus and Marcus Junius Brutus, they stabbed Caesar to death in a location adjacent to the Theatre of Pompey on the Ides of March (March 15), 44 BC.
We have planned to get the Hop On/Hop Off bus for the day – that will take us to just about everything we want to see without walking in the hot sun. A further short walk to the Victor Emmanuel Monument where the buses leave, we buy our ticket – 18 euro – and when we get on we are given a set of earphones to plug in so that we can listen to the commentary. Unfortunately the reception is not the best so we do without. Our first stop is near the Castel Sant’Angelo.
HISTORY LESSON: The Castel Sant’Angelo (Castle of the Holy Angel) was originally built in the 2nd century as a mausoleum for Emperor Hadrian and was later transformed into a large castle where the Popes could take refuge in turbulent times.
On the top of the castle there is a statue depicting the archangel Michael who, according to legend, appeared on top of the fortress in the year 590 and miraculously ended the severe plague that had infested the city of Rome. After the purported event, the building was renamed Castel Sant’Angelo – literally translated ‘Saint Angel Castle’ – in honor of the archangel.
We are lucky so far, there are not many tourists so we take our photos before they arrive which I am sure they undoubtedly will.
The Bridge of Angels that crosses the River Tiber in front of the Castle was built by Hadrian as an avenue to his mausoleum (or Hadrianeum). It dates from the 2nd century and was originally named “Pons Aelius” (Bridge of Hadrian) in his honor. The ten angels on either side were designed by Bernini in 1669 and most were carved by his pupils but two by the master himself – considered by the Pope who commissioned them to be too lovely to expose to the elements – were later given to the church of Sant’Andrea delle Fratte; copies were put in their places.
One good thing is that the bridge is only open to pedestrians which allows us to take many, many photos without the fear of being run over by Roman traffic!
After taking loads of photos it is then time to find the closest bus stop on the HOHO Route which will take us to the Roman Forum. It is a bit of a long walk but only a short bus ride and soon we are at our destination.
Only thing is we have to find the way in. Asking directions we are told we have to go further down the Via di Fiora Imperiali and then turn left and up a hill. That cannot be too hard so we are on our way noting that this main thoroughfare is closed to vehicles on Sunday and it is only pedestrians for which we have to watch out. Our walk finally ends with us arriving at the Main Entrance. Our entrance fee was covered in our Colosseum Dungeons Tour so scanning our passes we find ourselves smack dab in the middle of Imperial Rome.
HISTORY LESSON : The Roman Forum is located in a valley that is between the Palatine Hill and the Capitoline Hill. Originally it was a marsh, but the Romans drained the area and turned it into a centre of political and social activity. The Forum was the marketplace of Rome and also the business district and civic centre. It was expanded to include temples, a senate house and law courts. When the Roman Empire fell, the Forum became forgotten, buried and was used as a cattle pasture during the Middle Ages.
Our ipods at the ready it is time for another Rick Steves Audio Tour, but this one starts at the Arch of Titus which is left of where we entered. So another little walk and we are there. I think this is much better than the Audio Guides offered at the entrance.
The Arch of Titus is one of two remaining arches on the Forum and is the oldest surviving example of a Roman Arch. The triumphal arch was built in 81-85 AD to commemorate the capture of Jerusalem over the Jewish Zealots.
Titus captured Jerusalem in 70 AD with four legions and the revolt was completely crushed after the fall of the Masada fortress in 72 AD. On the inside of the arch are two panels with reliefs.
On the left is the triumphal procession with the spoils taken from the Second Temple in Jerusalem – the seven-branched candelabrum or Menorah, the silver trumpets and the Table of the Shewbread.
The right shows shows Titus in a chariot accompanied by the goddess Victoria and the goddess Roma.
Time for us to split up and my next stop on the informative RSAG is the Basilica of Constantine.
The original name was the Basilica of Maxentius and was the last of the great civilian basilicas on the Roman Forum. The construction of the basilica was initiated by Maxentius in 308 CE, and finished by Constantine after he had defeated Maxentius in the battle of the Milvian Bridge in 312 CE. As other similar buildings, it was destined for commercial and administrative activities. It is likely that the basilica housed the offices of the Prefect of the City, the highest imperial official in late antiquity.
This is just one side of the basilica. The remaining part at the top left of the photo is all that remains of the great arches that spanned this complex. As Rick says there is not a lot remaining but it gives me time to appreciate the carvings on the inside of the roof not to mention the sheer magnitude of the building.
As Rick tells me some history it is time for us to walk like Romans down the Via Sacra so leaving the basilica we turn right.
The Via Sacra (Sacred Way) is the main street of The Forum. During the reign of Nero it was lined with colonnades and during the high times of Rome it was the setting for many solemn religious festivals, triumphal marches by victorious generals who led captive slaves and kings not to mention all their plunder and also daily assemblies of the normal Roman life.
The imagination has another chance to run wild and I think I could be walking on the actual stones that even Caesar himself may have walked upon. As you can see in the photo there are tops of columns strewn around and these make handy seats in the shade when the tootsies need a rest.
On the right side of the Via Sacra is the Temple of Romulus. It has to be said that one of the most amazing things about the Temple of Romulus (Tempio di Romolo) is the front door. It is green, made of bronze and about 1700 years old surviving the sacking of Rome and numerous other disasters intact.
The Temple of Romulus was built in the early 4C. Originally it was thought that this was dedicated to Emperor Romulus who died in 307. The building of the Temple of Romulus was started by Maxentius and completed by Constantine. Part of the reason this temple has survived in such good condition is that in the Middle Ages it was incorporated into the atrium of the church of St. Cosma and St. Damiano.
Continuing down the Via Sacra, the Temple of Antonius Pius & Faustina comes into view. This temple was built in 141 AD by Antonius Pius, to commemorate his wife, Faustina. She was an empress, who had died that year and officially canonized. Since 161 AD Antoninus himself was also honoured here.
The temple was changed into a church, which prevented later destruction. The facade was embellished with stairs and columns and the sculptured frieze extends from the front across the side walls of the church.
Typical, it is under restoration which is good for the Temple but disappointing for us.
Rick and I amicably part ways for a short time while I take advantage of no tourists and get some quick photos of the Temple of Vesta. In ancient times the Temple of Vesta – contained the “Sacred Fire” which was guarded by the Vestals (virgins selected from the best families in Rome).
The six priestesses who served in the temple were between the ages of 10 and 14. The Romans attached great importance to this “eternal fire”; on the first day of the new year (March first) they put out the fires in their houses and lit new ones from the flame in the temple of Vesta.
The present remains, dating from the time of Septimus Severus (A.D. 193-211), indicate that the temple was circular, with 20 slender columns supporting the roof. Archeological investigation has established that there was an opening in the center of the roof to let out the smoke from the sacred flame.
The House of the Vestal Virgins is directly behind this Temple but as I am walking down hill and trying to judge when is the best time to beat the tourists at some of the attractions, my next stop is the Temple of Julius Caesar.
There is only one place in the Forum where fresh flowers are placed everyday and that is at the spot where Caesar was cremated. It is not in plain view and if you did not know it was there (thanks Rick) you would go straight past it. Just before you get to the Forum Square you will see a rather out of place structure. This is what is left of Caesar’s Temple. Behind a rather nondescript wall and under a rather tacky tin roof there is a low earthen mound which is the remains of Caesar’s altar.
After Caesar was assassinated across the other side of town, his body was brought here to this spot and cremated. It was during this time that Mark Antony, according to Shakespeare, uttered those immortal words ‘Friends, Romans, countrymen – lend me your ears. I come to bury Caesar not to praise him’.
While Antony was off chasing Caesar’s killers, the Emperor Octavian completed a temple to the Divine Caesar. If Octavian could say that Caesar was a God, then he, as son of Caesar would of course be classed as the son of a God. The temple stood unused until Octavian finally achieved sole authority in Rome.
After paying my respects to Caesar it is back up the hill a little ways to admire what is left of the Temple of Castor & Pollux. Castor and Pollux – are the subject of numerous myths with the first temple of Castor and Pollux being built in 484 B.C. by the son of the dictator Aulus Postumius.
According to legend, after the victory Castor and Pollux rode to Rome and watered their horses at a spring in the Forum. The temple was rebuilt in the reign of Tiberius (A.D. first century), and of this temple there survives three Corinthian columns 12m high, popularly known as the “Three Sisters”.
Continuing back to the Temple of Vesta it is now time to visit with the Vestal Virgins.
The House of the Vestal Virgins lies like an oasis in a devastated Forum. Stepping over the stone that reads ‘Atrium Vestae’ I am in another world. Grassy areas, cool water pools and statues of the most venerated of the Virgins.
The House was home to Rome’s only female priests. The rather large complex contained a rectangular courtyard consisting of three ponds. The six Vestal women were selected from Noble families at the age of 10 and were expected to serve 30 years as priests. The white statues that are visible on the far side of courtyard are of the chief Vestals. This grounds of this house must still be revered because it is still maintained.
Rick and I walk down to the far end of the Forum Square where I turn around and get a fabulous view of the Forum leading back up to the Palatine Hill.
You will recognize all the ruins from the photos so far and it is here where you get a sense of how big this forum was. Put the imagination to use again and you will see this magical place in a different light.
Unfortunately there is not much shade from the relentless sun so we press on. Turning back to face the Column of Phocas – and trying to take some photos – the Canon tends to bend the Column of Phocas – bugger.
The Column of Phocas – in front of the Rostra in Rome is a Corinthian column 13.8m high, erected in A.D. 608 in honor of the Byzantine Emperor Phocas and in recognition of his presentation of the Pantheon to Pope Boniface IV for conversion into a church.
The Arch of Septimius Severus – it was a regular practice for the Senate and people of Rome to set up triumphal arches in honor of victorious Emperors and generals, and in A.D. 203 this arch, opposite the church of Santi Martina e Luca, was erected in honor of Septimius Severus and his sons Caracalla and Geta after their victories over the Parthians and various desert tribes.
On the arch, 23m high and 25m wide, are four marble reliefs with vigorous representations of episodes from these wars, the figures standing out prominently from the background. Goddesses of victory with trophies and a large inscription proclaim the glory of the Emperor and his sons (though the name of Geta was later erased).
Other features of the arch are: the base of a column commemorating the 10th anniversary of Diocletian’s accession and the remains of the Rostra, the ancient orators’ platform, which was originally decorated with the prows of captured enemy ships.
Our last sight of the Forum is the Temple of Saturn. Unfortunately from where I stand up through the Arch is closed for restoration. Gee, what a shock!
The first temple in the Forum was dedicated to Saturn, a god who was probably of Etruscan origin but was adopted by the Romans and worshipped as the supreme god. Built about 497 B.C., soon after the expulsion of the Tarquins, the temple was one of the most important and most venerated of republican Rome. It was several times destroyed by fire (the last occasion being in the A.D. fourth century) but was repeatedly rebuilt. It is represented by eight columns with Ionic capitals, now much weathered. Under the Republic the state treasury was kept in this temple.
We have walked the Forum for about 3 hours and it certainly has been worth the constant heat, the usual minority of rude tourists and the restoration to see and experience Imperial Rome. It is time to head to the HOHO bus again as our next stop is the Mouth of Truth.
As we start our walk, we pass the Arch of Constantine and come across the Circus Maximus.
This was the largest stadium in ancient Rome. Popular chariot races were held here and at one point the Circus could seat 250.000 people, one quarter of Rome’s population. The last race was held in AD 549, almost a millennium after the first races were held at this location during the 6th century BC. Today only the layout of the original Circus can be seen in what is now a large grassland. Most of the original structure has been used as building material for medieval and Renaissance constructions and hardly anything remains.
It is only natural for my imagination to take off and think of the great Circus in the epic movie Ben Hur when Judah and Marsala were racing around.
Seeing that we are nearly at the Mouth of Truth we continue our walk. The Mouth is situated at the church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin.
We put this stop on our itinerary for no other reason that we had seen it in the movie Roman Holiday with Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck. A most exquisite movie when Gregory pretends to lose his hand after he puts it in the Mouth of Truth.
The Mouth of Truth derives its name from a rather macabre legend associated with the mask since ancient times. If a liar puts their hand inside its mouth, they will lose it due to a violent bite!
Fortunately the three of us all get to keep our hands. After visiting the inside of the church we head back to our apartment for a well earned rest.
Across the road from the church is a lovely little park that contains the Temples of Hercules Victor and the Temple of Portunus (left). Also in the park is the Fountain of the Tritons (right).
Due to the ever increasing length of this post, I must admit I am just as tired writing this as what I was walking it, you can peruse the history on these for yourself through the above links.
It is heading towards late afternoon and as we walk along the River Tiber we make a few stops in the shade to take the necessary photos. We are anxious to get back home so we press on and are so glad when we reach our doorway. Up the stairs and all head for our beds to rest before showering and heading out with Rick later in the night to do some night photography.
Highlight of Part 1 – Ricks Tour of the Forum