PHILADELPHIA – all closed down

Monday – Today is Columbus Day and also our first day of experiencing the Government shutdown – not impressed!  Everything we wanted to see today is closed so we are bringing forward tomorrow’s sights.  We will however, go past all the closed attractions and secretly vent our frustration.

To be realistic there are others worse off than us – like the people who work for the National Parks and who depend on wages to survive.

But enough – first up is breakfast.  Even though the eating area is small, it is quaint and there is ample stocks of breakfast goodies.  They have Sugar Frosties – something I haven’t had for ages so of course a dish of those plus the tried and true toast and vegemite, juice and coffee.  Whilst eating away we go over our revised itinerary and then it’s back upstairs to get cameras etc and then out to explore.

Our first stop on the revised plan is Washington Square Park.

HISTORY LESSON : During the 18th century, the Square was used to graze animals and as a potter’s field.  During the Revolutionary War, the square was used as a burial ground for citizens and troops from the Colonial army.

After the Revolution, victims of the city’s yellow fever epidemics were interred here, and the square was used for cattle markets and camp meetings. Improvement efforts began in 1815, as the neighborhoods around the square were developed and became fashionable. In 1825, the park was named Washington Square in tribute to George Washington and a monument to Washington was proposed. 

In 1954, the Washington Square Planning Committee decided that, instead of the original proposed monument to Washington, a monument to all soldiers and sailors of the Revolutionary War would be built.

The monument, designated the “Tomb of the Unknown Revolutionary War Soldier”, includes a bronze cast of Washington as the monument’s centerpiece. The Tomb includes remains which were disinterred, after archeological examination, from within the park from when it was a cemetery. The remains are that of a soldier, but it is uncertain if he was Colonial or British.  An unknown number of bodies remain buried beneath the square and the surrounding area; some are still occasionally found during construction and maintenance projects.

It is very quiet and there are not many people around – most probably due to the shutdown but we take advantage of it and enjoy the park.  Next stop – Independence Hall (formerly known as the Pennsylvania State House) – which, along with the Independence Visitors Centre – is CLOSED. We had booked tickets for the Hall through the Centre and we were looking forward to seeing the inside with its rich history, but it is not meant to be.

Nevermind – outside photo opportunities abound – we even manage a discussion with the security staff who are making sure that no-one climbs the barricades.  Sometimes a little bit of power goes a long way – they snarl at Kylie when she tries to cross the road saying we are not even allowed to do that!

HISTORY LESSON : From 1775 to 1783, the Pennsylvania State House served as the principal meeting place of a body of representatives from each of the thirteen British North American colonies.  On June 14, 1775, delegates of the Continental Congress nominated our friend George Washington as commander-in-chief of the Continental Army and also appointed Benjamin Franklin to be the first Postmaster General of what would later become the US Post Office Dept.

The Declaration of Independence was approved there on July 4, 1776, and it was read aloud to the public in the area now known as Independence Square. This document unified the colonies in North America who declared themselves independent of Great Britain and explained their justifications for doing so.

Oh well,  nothing more to see so we turn around and get a close up view of the famous Liberty Bell.  Even though it is shut away behind closed doors we can still get some good views through the large glass walls.  HISTORY LESSON : The Bell is a major symbol of American Independence. Formerly placed in the steeple of the Pennsylvania State House (now renamed Independence Hall), the bell was cast with the lettering “Proclaim LIBERTY throughout all the land unto all the inhabitants thereof.” It originally cracked when first rung after arrival in Philadelphia, and was twice recast by local workmen. 

On the other side of the Independence National Historical Park is the National Constitution Centre.  Walking closer we see that it is OPEN due to the fact that it is not Government owned.  By the looks of things not many people realise this, there are no queues and hardly anyone inside.  This Centre is a nonprofit, nonpartisan institution devoted to the US Constitution (hence the name).  Centrally located on Independence Mall, the Centre serves as an interactive museum; a hub of civic education; and a national town hall for constitutional dialogue, not to mention pretty good value for money!

On entering we discover that there is a live theatrical production entitled ‘Freedom Rising’.  This tells the story of the U.S. Constitution and is presented in a circular theatre where we are all transported on a whirlwind journey through more than 200 years of constitutional history—from the American Revolution to the Civil War, the Civil Rights movement, and other key historic milestones. The narrator is great and she explains everything with such enthusiasm that we are mesmerised for the entire journey

After the presentation we commence our walk around the exhibitions (here’s a hint – start at the beginning – The Revolutionary War) we discover all sorts of interesting items including a Revolutionary War Drum and a copy of the Declaration of Independence where we can ponder the words ‘In the course of human events etc etc”.

Moving along, we all have a turn at a phantom Presidential Poll – my candidates were JFK and Bush the elder.  Needless to say JFK won by a thumping majority 68% to 32%.

Next stop – the Signers’ Hall.  One of the most popular and iconic attractions, Signer’s Hall allows you to walk among the Founding Fathers who added their name to the Constitution on 17th September 1787 —as well as those who dissented.

This array of statues brings to life the final day of the Constitutional Convention in the Assembly Room of the Pennsylvania State House, now known as Independence Hall. There are numerous famous faces in the room, including George Washington, Benjamin Franklin, James Madison, and Alexander Hamilton.  We are allowed to stand beside our favourites and take photos – so of course we do!

As you can see in the photos, I told the truth – there is hardly anyone there!  Good for us – not so good for the Centre.  Outside this hall is a large enclosed hall and hanging from the ceiling are the flags of all the US states and territories.  This hall has a fabulous view looking over Independence Park to Independence Hall.

After our casual walk around we decide to visit the feature presentation of Pulitzer Prize photos.  We are told it will be uplifting and we will recognize lots of photos from past years.

OK – sounds interesting so in we go.  Yes we do recognize lots of photos but I did not find it uplifting.  A great majority of photos were of war, desolation and tragedy.  Don’t get me wrong though, the photos were fabulous from a photographic point of view and I can see why they were winners  but uplifting – not on your Nelly.  That concludes our visit to the Constitution Centre.

Next stop Christ Church Burial Ground.

HISTORY LESSON :  In 1719 the burial ground next to Christ Church was becoming full, and the neighboring lands proved too marshy to be useful for burials. (Ducks swam in a nearby pond!) An entry in the minutes of the Christ Church Vestry from May 15, 1719 reads “The Church wardens are desired to agree…for a plot of ground which they have already viewed for a burying place and to collect the money [for it] with all convenient speed.” A June 23 record continues in the same vein: “The Vestry being Mett considered the unhappy circumstances of our Church Yard for a burying place & Mr. Trent & Mr. Assheton are desired to find out a convenient purchase of Ground to add to the Church Yard…”

Land was purchased along Fifth Street “in the suburbs” from a Mr. James Steel. In 1719, the city of Philadelphia was only 37 years old and Fifth Street, only about three blocks from Christ Church, was considered the “suburbs” or outskirts of the city.

The cemetery is the final resting place of Ben Franklin and four other signers of the Declaration of Independence – Benjamin Rush, Francis Hopkinson, Joseph Hewes and George Ross.  

For those of us who love history, it is a very interesting place; the grave sites of the Signers have flags fluttering away in the breeze; squirrels dart from one place to the next and back again; autumn leaves fall and every now and again we come across a head stone that brings a smile to our face.

This is one of those : makes you wonder just why would he want Safecracker chiseled on this for eternity?  You may wish to do some web surfing and find out exactly what this is all about – but I just like the headstone.

When the Burial Ground is closed or if you are too stingy to pay the $2 entry fee, you can still view Ben’s resting place from the outside pavement.  The iron rails in the brick wall were added in 1858 for public viewing at the request of his descendants and leaving pennies on Franklin’s grave is an old Philadelphia tradition.  This is the burial site of Benjamin Franklin and his wife Deborah.  You can see that there have been many people who have thrown pennies to fortify Ben’s philosophy ‘a penny saved is a penny earned’.

SPOILER ALERT : Pennies seem to be a tradition at a lot of sites we will visit over the next month or so.

After our ‘Cemetery for the Day’ it is time for lunch.  I saw a restaurant on a travel programme so a bit of internet surfing and we are lunching at The City Tavern – established 1773.  This is a bit of a walk from the cemetery so we have good appetite when we arrive not to mention a healthy sweat.  The temperature has risen to Summer heat – so much for the cool of Autumn!

We are greeted by staff in period costume – how quaint – are are guided to the front dining room.  Everything is in period style – down to the large pewter goblets that adorn the tables.  We are served some early breads and ice water which, being served out of pewter jug is icy cold.  Just what I needed.   Time to order drink – cider which is delicious and my lunch order consists of Schnitzel with seasonal vegetables and PROPER chips.

We take our time and enjoy the rest – cold drink and scrumptious lunch.  Deciding that we have done enough for today we decide to get a cab back to our hotel, but before we do we stop and get some postcards and also a quick visit to Old City T-Shirts ( home of the $5.00 custom made shirt) to take back home.  Last of the big spenders are we!

A relaxing afternoon – resting feet and bodies and all of a sudden it is time for dinner.  Still pretty full from lunch we go to Wendy’s just around the corner where I have grilled chicken on flatbread with salad.

HIGHLIGHT OF THE DAY : NATIONAL CONSTITUTION CENTRE!