OLYMPIA – a Museum of Winners
I am bushed – it is a long walk from the ruins to the museum but it is an easy walk and there is lots of shade so it is not too bad. A little slurp of my water every now and again keeps me going.
This Museum houses the artefacts that have been discovered at Olympia. That is – all except the Statue of Zeus which was hijacked to Constantinople where it was destroyed in the great fire. But enough – the statue is not here but there are loads of other goodies waiting for me.
Looking through my photos – where do I start? There is so much but we have to start somewhere so let’s go – – I will try not to make this like the Labours of Heracles but I do apologise beforehand – just in case.
This bronze female winged figure is one of the rarest and most valuable examples of hammered free-standing works. The incredible eyes are inlaid with bone and it is not known if it was only a bust or part of a full statue. It has been interpreted as Artemis, Nike or a Sphinx and is indicative of the early technique of bronze statues, dating from 590-580 BC.
The terracotta and architectural items on display come from coverings on the roofs of the Treasuries (see part 2) in which the valuable votive offerings of the cities were kept.
Most of them were built by the cities of Sicily and lower Italy – but what is surprising is the large Greek cities like Athens, Sparta and Corinth did not build treasuries in Olympia.
The upper part of the Treasury of the Megarians has been restored together with the pediment made of limestone on which is depicted in relief a most famous battle – the Gigantomachy. The scene containing five pairs of Gods and giants fighting is preserved in fragments and only the figure of the giant has survived. He is shown wounded and about to fall under the blows of Zeus. The other gods would have been Athena and Poseidon on the left and Heracles and Ares on the right. Probably from an Eleian workshop, it dates to the end of the 6th century BC.
Terracotta statue of Zeus carrying Ganymede from Troy to Olympus. Ganymede was special in the eyes of the gods for he had the reputation of being the most beautiful of all mortal men. This beauty was so great to have even the gods lusting after the mortal prince; and it was the most powerful of the gods, Zeus, who acted upon his desires. No shock there let me say!
Zeus looked down from his throne upon Mount Olympus and spied Ganymede looking after the livestock of his father Tros. Ganymede was alone, and so Zeus dispatched an eagle to abduct the Trojan prince; or maybe Zeus transformed himself into that eagle. Ganymede was plucked from the land of his father and carried rapidly to the palaces of the gods upon Mount Olympus where Ganymede would become the lover of Zeus and also given the role of cup-bearer of the Gods serving the ambrosia and nectar at the Gods’ feasts.
Two items that always catch my eye are dolphins and lions. Below left is a terracotta dolphin bounding over the waves. I love dolphins – they are such happy creatures. It probably decorated the upturned roof which acted as a gutter (known as a sima), dating from the end of the 5th century BC.
On the right is a recumbent lion. It was most probably a votive offering in the Sanctuary or it formed part of an altar. Mid 5th century BC.
Remember the tall Base of Paenios’ Victory that we saw? Well, this is the statue that adorned the top.
This statue (2.11 metres high) was a votive offering to Zeus from the Messenians and the Naupactians for their victory against the Spartans in the Archidameian war (421BC).
The leaning forward of the figure, the opening of the wings and her right foot presumably resting upon the eagle – all give the impression of her flying descent from Olympus to proclaim the victory.
She surely is a beautiful goddess and what a wondrous piece of work. How wonderful it would have been to see her on top of the pedestal in all her glory.
Perhaps the most famous of all the statues in the Olympia Museum is The Hermes of Praxiteles who is considered the greatest of the Attic sculptors of the 4th century BCE and one of the most original of Greek artists.
Hermes is holding the infant Dionysus in his left arm, while he dangles a bunch of grapes in his missing right arm. It is a typical pose that was reproduced almost identically in many ancient statues, but the original one was attributed to Praxiteles.
The marble is beautifully carved to describe the anatomy of the body in accurate forms, while the treatment of the surface contrasting sheen and texture reveal the different roles of the stone: skin, cloth, tree, and hair. Hermes has assumed the pose, typical of classical standing figures (contrapposto), in an effortless and natural way – his hip is pushed upward on the right side to support the entire weight of his body.
To stand before this statue and appreciate the finishes on the marble – it is incredible.
We now leave classical Greece for the time being and get a chance to wander around some Roman statues unearthed at Olympia. Of course there are Emperors but there are also many statues of Emperor’s wives and family.
Above left is probably Emperor Marcus Aurelius. It was erected in the east part of the Nymphaion. Centre is Faustina the Elder who was the wife of Antoninus Pius. In Rome there is a temple in the Forum dedicated to them. On the right is probably Athenaides, the daughter of Herodes Atticus (who built the theatre at the Acropolis)
OK – what museum or archeological site would not be complete unless there was a statue of my favourite – Emperor Hadrian – below left. No matter where you go – Hadrian is always there to greet you.
Agrippina the Younger – centre – was the wife of the emperor Claudius. On the right is Emperor Titus.
I really enjoy looking at these statues that have heads. I feel as if I can look into their faces from all those years ago.
Next room is the East and West Pediments from the Temple of Zeus – but first – – – –
The Bull of Crete. The fourth scene (or metopes) on the west end of the Temple of Zeus, shows Heracles’ (Hercules) capture of the Cretan Bull, which he was to bring alive to King Eurystheus.
Herakles has already roped the bull and is bringing him under control and in order to emphasize the huge size of the bull, the sculptor created a new composition for the first depiction of this episode on a monumental scale. Herakles and the bull form two crossing diagonals, with the head and right foreleg of the bull pulled back in order that its body can occupy the entire breadth of the scene. The heads of both Herakles and the bull are turned back and face each other in order to knit the composition even more closely.
Now for the Pediments from the Temple of Zeus. It is extremely hard to get suitable photos to stitch as the pediments are approx 25 metres in length.
This length combined with tourists is not good. I wonder if I could ask the guards to keep people back but I think even for me that is going too far. I have managed to stitch some photos – the others are single shots. I have kept them in order from left to right of the pediment.
The West Pediment shows the battle of Lapiths and Centaurs. According to myth the Centaurs were invited to the wedding of the King of the Lapiths, Peirithos to Deidameia. The Centaurs, half horse half man, drank too much wine and attempted to abduct the Lapith women. In the fight which followed, Apollo (below right) stands calmly at the centre while Peirithos, the Lapith king and bridegroom, leads the attack on the Centaurs. Lapith women watch anxiously from the corners of the pediment.
The figures at the ends of the pediment were destroyed in 460 BCE and they were replaced at a later date with the ones found in excavations.
Now to the East Pediment. It depicts the chariot race between Oinomaos and Pelops.
They appear in the moments before the race – calm and orderly. In the centre of the group, Zeus is the ultimate observer and is flanked by the two heroes and their wives.
Next to them are their horses and chariots (now lost) and several additional figures.
The reclining figures at the two ends of the pediment represent the two rivers of Olympia, Alpheios and Kladeos.
Sitting and looking at these statues I am amazed at how people from so long ago managed to sculpt these lifelike statues.
The best preserved and one of the finest metopes (scenes) is that portraying the myth of the Apples of the Hesperides.
It contains three figures – in the centre Heracles is turned to the right as with an effort he holds up the sky on his shoulders.
On the left, Athena wearing a tranquil expression assists him, easily supporting part of the sky with one raised arm while holding her spear with her right hand. In front of Heracles stands Atlas who has brought back the golden apples guarded by the Hesperides Nymphs and presents them to him.
There are many more metopes, artefacts and statues but if you want to see them you will either have to go to the Museum yourself or google them. There are far too many for me to keep adding photos.
After this treasured time it is time to meet up with Mr E and head back to Athens. On my way out I get a wonderful, freshly squeezed, icy lemon juice from one of the stands along the way. Mr E is waiting for me and he has parked the car in the cool shade – how wonderful. He asks me what I thought of Olympia – my answer – I want to come back. He smiles.
Before we arrive in Athens Mr E takes the drive half way up the Mount Lykavittos. ‘Hill of Wolves’. It gives the finest panoramas of the city and the Attic basin, – pollution haze permitting. Unfortunately today is one of the hazy days – but never mind it is still a wonderful view – especially with The Acropolis in the distance.
Heading back to the hotel I ask Mr E if he knows a good Yeeros place close to the hotel as I do not want to walk to the Plaka. Apparently there is one just down the street and not too far so I decide to visit there once I get back to the hotel and recover for an hour or two.
My private tour for the last two days has been amazing. Not only was my driver, Evangelis, a careful driver but he was knowledgeable about the places I visited and I never felt hurried to race around and get back to the car which I must say was spotless. He was a true delight and over the two days we talked about history, his life in Greece and of course Australia. I hope that you have enjoyed these days as much as me. As we arrive back at the hotel, he continues to be a true gentleman and opens the door for me, helps me with my luggage and wishes me well for the rest of my holiday.
The hotel staff are glad at my safe return, I recover my stored suitcase, grab some Turkish Delight and head for room 217 which is a bigger room than the last effort. I have space to stretch out.
Recovered, it is back into the heat and heading for dinner. The food looks delicious and seeing that I have done nothing but walk for the last two days a helping of baklava will certainly up my energy levels – or kill me.
I stop and get an Iced Frappe from Coffee Island and I am set to enjoy my feast in the cool and quiet of my room.
I look at my agenda for tomorrow – it is the Acropolis – can’t wait to see all the restoration.