DELOS – back with the gods
Monday – another great night’s sleep but I awake to an overcast morning. Today we visit the Island of Delos – so hope we do not get too much rain. One good thing it is not cold. Lovely sunrise – some rain and a rainbow; time for breakfast.
Not a very good morning to sit outside but at least it is not windy. Can’t imagine that there will be many swimmers today. Once brekky is finished it is time to gather cameras etc and wait for my transfer. I have asked the hotel to book a transfer to the harbour – EURO 25.00. Sounds a bit rich but too bad.
I am getting picked up around 9am so time for some photos of the hotel – as I said earlier it doesn’t look much when you arrive. This is the walkway from the parking area – there are rooms off to the left and right – ideal for families I would say but I am glad I got a room in the main part overlooking the sea.
My driver arrives and we are soon on our way. The ferry leaves at 10am so we have plenty of time. Unfortunately the cars cannot go into the main part of town – unless you are delivering something to the shops and restaurants etc. Delivering me to the harbour does not count so I have to walk down through the streets to the harbour and then walk right around to where the ferry departs – it is a pretty harbour but the rain is doing a major threat.
It is not as straightforward as it looks. There are detours through alleyways that are full of little shops – I will check them out on my return but I am not a shopper except for the usual fridge magnet.
I note the clothing is very expensive not that I plan on buying any clothing mind you – but some ladies will stock up for sure. I arrive at the Delos Kiosk and change my voucher for the ferry tickets.
This is the ferry – not as large as the main ferries but it looks seaworthy so that’s a plus. We can get on and check out where we can stand or sit – there is no allocated seating so that’s another plus.
The seats are just wooden benches but I plonk my bag down on one near the railing. Seems like a good plan.
The smaller ferries etc are heading out of the harbour – hope it doesn’t get too stormy for them.
We finally get underway and the minute we leave and get past the entrance the skies open up with the waterworks. Everyone rushes for cover and secretly prays that it will soon stop.
I have a feeling that this is not going to be a good day to walk around, still, maybe when we arrive Apollo and Artemis will take pity on us and ease up with the weather.
I am glad I have my umbrella although not too sure how I am going to manage with it and the camera – I will find a way.
After a rather uncomfortable trip trying to dodge the rain, we spy the ruins and a miracle has occurred – the sun is starting to shine through the black clouds.
Coming into Delos I spy one of these rather strange statues (above right). I think this one is titled ‘Another Time’ and we discover that this is just one of many created by Antony Gormley. Personally I think these statues should not be on such sacred ground – but I am sure that some people would appreciate them. Once off the boat we head towards the entrance where our guide is waiting – holding an umbrella in the air. Hope that this is not a bad omen as it has started to rain but it is only light.
HISTORY LESSON: According to Greek mythology, Delos was the birthplace of Artemis and Apollo, the twin offspring of Zeus by Leto. When Leto was discovered to be pregnant, Zeus’ jealous wife Hera banished her from the earth, but Poseidon took pity on her and provided Delos as a place for her to give birth in peace.
The Ionians colonized Delos around 1000 BC and made it their religious capital. The island was so sacred that, at one point, no one was allowed to be born or to die there – those about to do either were rushed off to the nearby islet of Rinia. A great festival, the Delia, was hosted here in honour of Apollo, Artemis and Leto, as described in Homeric Hymn 3.
Our guide is a lovely lady by the name of Athena. She informs us that she is a qualified archaeologist and has worked on Delos for a number of years. She has also travelled to Sydney to lecture in the University and as she speaks about the history of Delos I can’t wait to get going.
First stop – the Agora of the Competaliasts.
This one of the main markets of Delos and is an open square near the Sacred Harbour; it is paved with large flat stones many of which have post-holes for tents. The Competialists were Roman merchants and freemen who conducted annual festivals in honour of the Lares Compitales: Roman gods of the crossroads associated with Hermes. These were minor gods, but as patrons of travellers and commerce they were very important to the island’s inhabitants.
Below is the Stoa of Philip V – this imposing stoa was constructed by Philippos V of Macedonia in 210 BC, in honour of Apollo.
It is 72 metres long and 11 metres wide, and was supported by 16 Doric columns. This dedicatory inscription, ‘The king of the Macedonians, Philippos, son of the King Demetrios, dedicates this to Apollo‘ is still legible.
From the left side of the Agora, the Sacred Way (or Dromos) leads to the Sanctuary of Apollo.
A paved road 45 feet wide, the Sacred Way is lined with marble bases that once supported statues and monuments donated by kings and generals. This was the route travelled by ancient pilgrims and the annual procession during the Delia festival.
Unfortunately it is raining a bit heavier now so the juggling of camera, map and umbrella becomes a right royal pain. Never mind, I will continue on – – entrance to the Sanctuary from the Sacred Way was marked by the Propylaea – three portals made of white marble and supported by four Doric columns. Sadly, little remains of the great temples.
The Great Temple of Apollo begun around 477BC was neglected after the treasury was transferred to Athens in 454BC. It was a doric structure with six rows of 13 columns measuring 30m x 13.5m. The metopes were left plain and the architrave was decorated only with palm leaves and lion spouts.
Once again there is no notification of what belongs where and because of that I can only hope that someone out there may recognize them. These ruins are all part of the Great Temple.
On the right side of the sanctuary is the House of the Naxians 7-6th century BC. This is a place where the sanctuary treasures were stored.
Against the north wall is the base of a colossal Statue of Apollo (7th c BC) that was made of Naxian marble which Plutarch said was destroyed when a bronze palm tree blew over onto it.
A piece of the foot is in the British Museum, a hand is in the Delos Museum (keep an eye out) and part of the trunk and thighs are behind the Temple of Artemis on Delos.
Below left is part of the Temple of Apollo Complex – not much of it left and the rain is not doing it justice – everything has a brown tinge – but it adds to the character.
At a curiously oblique angle to the fronts of these last two temples is the base, in blue marble, of a dedication to Philetairos, founder of the dynasty of Pergamon in the 3rd century BC,
Bearing a long inscription that praises him there is an adjacent base in white marble with a doric frieze. You can read all about him in the link above.
Moving right along our next stop is the Poros Temple (below) which is the oldest Temple of Apollo. It was built of poros stone during either the period of the Athenian tyrant Peisistratus or that of his sons in the 6th century BC. The famous statue of Apollo originally stood in this temple but was later transferred to the Great Temple.
Only the foundations in ‘poros’ stone remain. The building may be the first visible expression of Athenian dominance at Delos. It was here that the treasure of the Delian Confederacy was originally lodged until its removal to Athens in 454 BC.
I will finish this part with The Dodekatheon.
Dated from the third century BC – the name indicates that it was a temple of the twelve Olympian gods and goddesses of ancient Greece. Some of the statuary from this small temple is housed in the Delos museum.
OK – let’s take a break. We still have lots to see including the wonderful Delos Lions – not to mention the museum – please contain your excitement.