2003 Discovering Britain & Ireland – Day 14

LONDONDERRY to BUNDORAN – Londonderry air

Saturday – another big brekky and we head off for our guided tour of Londonderry or just Derry.  After all the bad publicity about this city over the years there are a few of us that are just a tad apprehensive – but life goes on and so do we.

The police stations are all covered in barbed wire, surveillance cameras and armaments. How can people live like this???

HISTORY LESSON: The name of the city is the subject of a dispute between nationalists (mostly Catholic) who call it Derry and unionists (mostly Protestant) who call it Londonderry. Although many unionists will call it Derry in casual conversation, they generally insist on calling it Londonderry during political discussions while nationalists call it Derry at all times. Only in Ireland – – – –

We have a local guide who is an Irish Buddhist. That’s a great combination and he is very informative, he also has a great sense of humour. We see where lots of violence has happened over the years – I can’t help thinking what a waste of life.

Zipping past in our coach we see the centre of the walled city the Diamond which was once occupied by the Town Hall but since 1927 it has been the site of the War Memorial.

The bronze statues and Portland stone which stand 40 foot high and 27 feet wide are in memory of those from Derry who fought and lost their lives during World War 1 (1914 – 1918).  Each year the November Poppy Day Parade commemorates the war heroes and the memory of all who lost their lives.

Next up a bit of excitement – we pass the sight of where a recent car bombing has taken place and there is a news crew beside the road doing a story.

That night – our big black coach makes the news – only because we were passing by and got in the film. We are celebrities!

Parking our coach and head off on our walking tour – – the police presence is incredible because – – – – our day in Derry coincides with the Annual Apprentice Boys March. Over the years this March has been at the centre of many bloody riots but recently things have changed for the better (so they tell us) – let’s hope it stays that way.

HISTORY LESSON: In December 1688 the people of Londonderry were faced with a Catholic regiment to take over the garrison. The Protestants feared a repetition of the 1641 massacres when a letter – later to be declared a hoax – was found stating that Irishmen were going to murder man, wife and child on 9th December 1688.

On 7th December 1688 when the first companies of the Regiment crossed the River Foyle – a group of young apprentices took matters into their own hands by closing the gates of the city. By April 1689 only Londonderry and Enniskillen had yet to fall to the Jacobites. NO SURRENDER!

A wooden boom was then constructed across the Foyle by the Regiments to prevent ships arriving to relieve the city. The siege lasted 105 days until three merchant ships – Mountjoy, Phoenix & Jerusalem sailed towards the boom protected by the frigate Dartmouth. The boom was broken and the ships were able to unload the supplies for the city.

We get the chance to speak with some of the marchers and the police – – and they explain the situation over the years – – incredible. Then we hear the marchers approaching.

They come by us heading for the main meeting place and the banners, sashes and uniforms are something to behold.  Even in these times these people continue to stand up for what they believe.

We watch the parade pass and it seems to go on forever.  After it finishes our guide has a few words to the police asking if our group can walk a small way along the Walls of Derry.

The Walls have been closed because of the march but apparently our guide is well known to the police – in a really good way I hasten to add – and they say it is OK.

After our little walk and another history lesson from our guide we walk around and see the St Columbus Cathedral and the Guildhall and then it’s time for lunch.

We are left to our own devices to explore this city but I am feeling rather peckish I head off to the local shopping mall. I get some salad and fruit for lunch and buy some postcards then it’s time to board our coach and leave Derry. We have not heard of any disturbances so that is a good sign – –

let’s hope that peace becomes a permanent way of life in this place  –

We head off for Enniskillen on Lough Erne for our highlight cruise which is included in the cost of this trip.  We arrive at the dock and board our little boat. Still misty weather but a relaxing cruise with a bit of refreshment sees us arrive at Devenish Island.  Founded around the 560’s and situated on once well-wooded land it was a key port of call on the chain of island monasteries.

Round Tower on the right (circa 9th century). You can climb 81 feet to the top – no thanks. Some of the group decide to make the climb and then annoy everyone by yelling out like Banchees when they get there.

Round Towers were either used for bell ringing or a place of refuge for the monks who inhabited the island.

On the left is St Mary’s Priory or The Abbey.  Built for the Augustinian Canons – both the prominent tower and bell chamber were added later.

After a relaxing time walking around the island we board our boat and have a relaxing cruise back to the dock and the coach and head toward Bundoran in County Donegal for a two night stay.

Our hotel is the Allingham Arms Hotel– right on the water. Across from the hotel there is a long walkway which goes along the coast. Sounds interesting and looks good – but I’ll just wait and hear about it from the brave few who did it. I don’t want to upset my feet and legs any more than I have to. The hotel is nice and clean with big rooms and the dining room overlooks the sea which is great.

#8 OPTIONAL: Dinner at the Pier Head Hotel – Cost ₤27.00.

Heading off for dinner at the Pier Head Hotel in Mullaghmore, Sligo we pass Lord Mountbatten’s home.

It is a fair distance from the road – and from what we can see it’s really just a bit of a blur – but we can at least see it – so I take a photo – natch!

The pub is right on the water, the dining room – small but cosy, wooden floors and the meal from what I remember – I think I had fish – is nice. (I didn’t write it in my journal – nor did I walk out with the menu, I must be slipping).

After dinner and a glass or two of wine I walk out onto the seawall. It is late – about 10.30pm and still the sun has not set.

It is a lovely balmy evening. The sea is dead calm and there are a few birds soaring overhead, there are even a few kids in having a swim. Looks relaxing I must say –

Highlight of the day: The Apprentice Boys March in Londonderry