EPIDAURUS – theatre and healing
Our last port of call before being able to relax in a comfy hotel is Epidaurus. It is about an hour’s drive and we are heading for the coast – I just know when we are heading towards the sea! It always makes me feel great no matter what.
But I digress – OK – back to history. Arriving in style – the heat has not let up and getting out of the car – it is incredible. How on earth am I going to get around this place? I will have to go from tree to tree to tree looking for shade.
When you say Epidaurus you immediately think of the theatre but there is a lot more here – I am surprised. You can read all about this place on the link above – you will be astounded – but we will come to that as we progress. First up is the famous ancient Theatre of Epidaurus.
It was constructed in the late 4th century BC, around the time when Athens was flourishing in art, philosophy, science, and of course theatre. The theatre can seat more than 12,000 spectators and it is regarded as the best preserved theatre in Greece and famous for its exemplary acoustics. The actors can be perfectly heard by all spectators, and it is said you can even hear the sound of a pin drop.
Originally the theatre had 34 rows of seats divided into 34 blocks by stairs and walkways. It was built by the architect Polykleitos on the side of a mountain and overlooking the Sanctuary of Asklepios.
While I am contemplating climbing to the top to get a great view – there is a lady coming down who slips on the shiny marble – but she is OK. I decide to not tempt fate and I give it a miss. Then we are treated to a tour guide giving an oration – it would be great to be here for one of the ancient dramas – but it is time for some shade – so I head to the museum. The entrance fee is included in my ticket price and it seems to have so many statues etc crammed into a small space.
The Greeks certainly loved their Gods and Goddesses. These three statues were found at the Complex of the Asklepios Baths. Above left is Athena wearing a peplos. You should all know by now what a peplos is. She is standing beside an olive tree.
Centre is Asklepios – God of Medicine and doctors – he leans on his rod.
Right is Aphrodite – wearing a himation which was a type of clothing, a mantle or wrap. It was usually worn over a chiton and/or peplos, but was made of heavier drape and played the role of a cloak or shawl.
There are lots of headless statues – and lots of statueless heads – but time to investigate the large complex.
Holy Asklepios it is hot outside – making sure I have plenty of water I set off. Best plan of action is to hop from shade to shade, follow the paths and hope that there are information boards at the places of interest.
The Katagogion (below) was the main building where the visitors / patients / pilgrims and their companions found accommodation during their stay. It dates to the late 4th – early 3rd C BCE.
It consisted of four square units and each unit consisted of a courtyard, a Doric peristyle and probably an upper storey. It is estimated that the building had approximately 160 rooms. It was also possible to isolate parts of the building for medical reasons like contagious diseases.
After walking through many piles of ruins – this is what is left of the Temple of Artemis. It is also the circular part in the front of the photo on the right. There are of course other bits and pieces laying around.
At the back is the Stoa of Abaton. It was a place in which patients were cured through contact with the healing God Asklepios during the incubation ceremony. The type of healing was a mystery so the Stoa was blocked for those who had not prepared themselves to encounter Asklepios.
The patients made their preparations in the eastern part and the upper storey of the western part of the building, purifying themselves with water from the sacred well and reading stories of the wonderful healing recorded on the stelai erected inside the Stoa. This then led them by power of suggestion to go through the miracle of the cure. They then passed to the ground floor and lay down waiting for the miraculous dream to come. The dream symbolized the death of the ills and when Asklepios visited them in the dream, he bestowed on them healthy new life.
There is no shade here so time to move on to the Stadium.
It is located next to the Sanctuary and was constructed in the 5th century B.C. to host the nude athletic games. These games were hosted every four years to honour the God.
At first the stadium had no seats and the spectators were standing, but in the late 4th century B.C. seats from limestone were constructed. Today the long corridor of the stadium, few columns from the entrance gate and some seats on the left and the right side of the stadium.
The stadium is now included in the restoration programme of Epidaurus as controlled school track and field activities already take place – therefore linking modern times with the ancient site.
I have walked around the Sanctuary and now it is time to head back to the air conditioned comfort of my limo. Collapsing into the back seat – I reach for the icy water and just relax. Even though it was stinking hot it was such an incredible place and I am amazed how on earth people built these places which are so far away from anything.
Mr E informs me that we are now heading for Nafplion – which according to mythology, the town was founded by Nafplios, the son of the God Poseidon and the daughter of Danaus (Danaida) Anymone.
The town’s history traces back to the prehistoric era when soldiers from here participated in the Argonautic expedition and the Trojan War alike. The town declined during the Roman times and flourished again during the Byzantine times. Frankish, Venetian and Turkish conquerors left their mark in the town and strongly influenced its culture, architecture and traditions during the centuries. Ancient walls, medieval castles, monuments and statues, We drive partway up the hill to get some outstanding views and more importantly cool breezes.
Mr E advises that I can climb to the top to see Palamidi Castle if I wish – we have lots of time.
He also tells me that when he was at school they came here for a school excursion and had to climb to the top – I take one look at the climb and practically collapse back in the car. He smiles and says there are 999 steps carved into the rock – Ha! fat chance of me doing that.
Once refreshed we now take a little drive around the town and down to the docks before we head for our overnight stay in Olympia and tomorrow it is a visit to the home of the Olympic Games – but I am getting ahead of myself.
Arriving at the hotel (Mr E is staying at another hotel just in case you have any ideas) – it is the Arty Grand Hotel – looks like your typical hotel on the outside but once through the doors and into the foyer it is absolutely fabulous.
Check in goes without a hitch and Mr E tells me he will see me in the morning – about 8am to spend most of the day at Olympia and then travel back to Athens.
I am escorted to my room, what a palace and what a view – just look at those olive trees. This view has come as quite a shock as usually I get the ‘this is the car park’ view. Not today!
BUT before I get too settled I am really cheesed off because this place has a wonderful pool – actually it has an outside pool and an inside pool – and here am I with no togs! They are in my case back in Athens. Nevermind – I have a large spa bath – not the same I know – but better than nothing.
After a nice relaxing soak it is time for dinner – I think I have worked up an appetite – – and I could do with a glass or two of Vitamin G for sure!
This is the view from the outside dining area – just like a fairy land, but after devouring my oh so delicious all you can eat buffet meal – they even had platters of hot chips – everything is wonderful if there is hot chips – a lovely little bottle of wine – it is time to hit the clouds to sleep with the Gods.
This has been a big day – and tomorrow will be just as fabulous – – I know, because Asklepios told me so.