Luxor – the boy king & craftsmen
▲▲▲Saturday – we set off early this morning – we have so much to see today and our first stop is to see the Colossi of Memnon. I am surprised to see that these statues are virtually right beside the road.
Although the surrounds are lovely, the statues seem out of place because the rest of the temple of Amenhotep III has disappeared.
HISTORY LESSON : These two gigantic statues, 20 metres high, were cut out of single blocks of sandstone and represent Pharaoh seated on his throne with his hands on his knees.
Certain legends have become attached to the statue on right. One theory is that in 27 BC an earthquake shook all the monuments at Thebes and split open this enormous block of stone. The upper half, down to the waist, fell to the ground.
It was observed that every morning at sunrise the remains of the statue gave out an indefinite and prolonged sound which sounded like a sad harmonious song. After restoration work in 193-221 AD the sound was never heard again.
After spending time taking photos of every view we get back on the bus and head off for the Valley of the Kings. One of the villages we pass – note the sign Valley of the Queens.
We didn’t see one that said Valley of the Kings – – – strange. I hope we are going in the right direction. Here it is – The Valley of the Kings and the Theban Peak. I just can’t tell you how I feel – –
We have to park the bus outside the main part of the valley and we get some quaint little motorised carriages to take us to the main part of the valley and to the tombs. But before we get in them – I see this sign and take a photo of Kylie.
Mohamed has nicknamed Kylie ‘Sekhmet’. This Egyptian goddess was the ‘Powerful One’, the mistress of dread who gives life eternally. She is associated with war and retribution, and was said to use arrows to pierce her enemies with fire, her breath being the hot desert wind as her body took on the glare of the midday sun. If you know Kylie you will agree it’s an apt name for her.
Sekhmet is depicted as a lion-headed woman with a sun-disk and serpent head-dress. She was a goddess of Upper Egypt and I think Kylie has taken a fancy to the nickname. As a comparison – my name is Thoth – God of wisdom and the moon. Yep – I can cope with that. The eternal scribe of the Gods!
Mohamed gives us a quick history lesson on the Valley and as the guides are not allowed to talk in the tombs he also tells us about each tomb before we go in.
We are given three vouchers for ‘Three tomps’ as it says on the ticket. Chuckle, chuckle.
Mohamed has chosen the tombs of Ramses VI – Tuthmosis III and Ramses I. These are – from what he says – the best decorated of all the tombs. I was hoping to see Seti I and Merneptah but they are closed for restoration. Most of the tombs are closed – – maybe one day I’ll get back and see them – no – I will get back and see them.
Below are photos from the tomb of Ramses VI.
On the right is the stairway leading from the burial chamber to the entrance of the tomb.
HISTORY LESSON : Ramses VI (reigned 1144 – 1136 BC) was a pharaoh of the 20th dynasty. The tomb (KV9) was prepared for his brother Ramses V who ruled for only 4 years.
It is not known why Ramses VI took this tomb instead of making his own.
The fundamental elements of the tomb are the sun and its daily journey in the world of darkness from which it emerges perpetually victorious.
There are scenes from the Book of Gates and from the Book of Caverns.
The artistic work in Ramses VI is incredible with the astronomical ceiling beyond belief. The colours are still as vibrant as when they were first painted.
Took lots of photos – no flash allowed, so I am keeping my fingers crossed that they all turn out. This is an incredible ceiling (above left) and the detail that the painters used all those ages ago is such an art. A time of no modern conveniences and to come up with artwork like this is astounding.
Next tomb on our list is that of Tuthmosis III.
Before you get to the entrance – there is a very, very long set of stairs to climb. Joe and Judy cannot make the climb – – but I am off like a shot. The entrance to the tomb is about 30 metres above ground level.
HISTORY LESSON : Tuthmosis III (reigned 1479 – 1425BC) was a pharaoh of the 18th dynasty.
He assumed power after the death of Hatshepsut – his father’s sister and he was an exceptional ruler. Discovered in 1898, his tomb reflects his achievements.
The large burial chamber, holds a wonderful red quartzite sarcophagus on which is carved an image of the goddess Nut. The mummy of Tuthmosis III was found in 1881 inside tomb no 320 at Deir-el-Bahri.
How on earth did the ancients ever get this sarcophagus into position? It must weigh more than a ton!
No modern lifts – no modern anything and they still managed to place these things with precision.
The carvings are also enough to take your breath away. Artisans in every sense of the word.
The last tomb on our list to see is that of Ramses I 1295 – 1294 BC. (KV16). This is another tomb of incredible artwork with colours as vibrant as if they were painted yesterday.
HISTORY LESSON : KV 16 is of small dimensions but it’s wall paintings and workmanship are excellent. Ramses I was regarded as the first pharaoh of the 19th dynasty.
The tomb (KV 16) was discovered on or before October 11, 1817 by Giovanni Battista Belzoni just before his discovery of the much more significant tomb of Seti I. It is located in a small lateral valley perpendicular to the main Valley of the Kings Wadi.
The photo on the right is Ramses (in the centre) being welcomed into the afterlife by Anubis (on the right) and Harsieses (on the left).
The short duration of his reign forced the craftsmen to complete his eternal dwelling quickly and this accounts for the unusually small dimensions of the corridor and the burial chamber.
Now to the tomb I have dreamed about for so many years and the one that I want to see the most – – the tomb of Tutankhamen. (KV62).
Tutankhamen is the only Pharaoh to remain in his tomb after discovery. As with anything worth seeing and experiencing, we have to pay extra to go inside LE 40 (about AUD 5.00) – but I don’t care.
There are no photos allowed – we are not even permitted to take our cameras inside. We have to leave them with the ‘Keeper of the Tomb’. A bit apprehensive about doing that – but if I have to – so be it.
HISTORY LESSON : In November 1922 Howard Carter discovered the tomb of a practically unknown pharaoh whose name, Tutankhamen, soon became so famous that it obscured those of the great pharaohs.
Tutankhamen was a Pharaoh of the 18th dynasty – (reigned 1333 – 1324 BC). His father is believed to be the heretic Pharaoh Ankenhaten. (or Amenophis IV before he changed his name). The burial chamber is the only room of the whole tomb that is decorated with paintings.
It contains the red quartzite sarcophagus on whose corners are carved four protecting deities (Isis, Nepthys, Selkis and Neith). Inside the sarcophagus there is a wooden coffin covered with gold leaf that contains the mummy of the king. It is the only royal mummy to remain in a tomb in the valley.
All the other objects from the tomb were removed and most are now in the Cairo Museum.
Painted on the wall is the ceremony of the ‘Opening of the Mouth’ performed by Ay – his successor.
I could not complete my journal without a photo of the tomb so a quick search of the web and hey presto. I actually stood here! Do you believe it? My little touristy heart is practically leaping out of my chest just to think of it.
I know I have read that the tomb is very small but I can’t believe how small it is. To know that Tutankhamen was a ‘lesser’ Pharaoh and to realise how much treasure was discovered here makes me wonder about the tombs of the great Pharaohs.
It was spellbinding time to stand before this eternal Pharaoh and look once again into those eyes.
I could have stayed there for hours but we were on a tight schedule. So after a return journey to the entrance of the Valley on our little train – here’s Kylie looking very Egyptian and that is our guide Mohamed next to her.
I think it is a great idea to have this form of transport to the tombs. Sure beats having a lot of smokey old tourist buses up there clogging up everything.
This way, you can walk around without fear of someone honking behind you. We wait here for a short time and then we are off back to our ‘real’ bus and away to the Temple of Hatshepsut.
On the way we come to the house of Howard Carter called ‘Castle Carter’ and Mohamed lets us get off the bus for a quick Kodak moment.
Carter was an English archaeologist and Egyptologist who spent nearly 50 years unearthing historical tombs and artifacts. Although he received no formal education of any sort, Carter became one of the foremost archaeologists of his time. His early work involved excavations in the Valley of the Kings, where he was responsible for much of the work on the tombs of pharaohs Hatshepsut and Thutmosis IV.
He is famous for discovering, with the support of Lord Carnarvon, the tomb of Tutankhamen. It’s hard to imagine that Howard Carter actually lived here – right out in the middle of nowhere. The house now stands empty, but plans are to turn it into a museum in the future.
Next stop is the inevitable alabaster factory. We are shown how the raw alabaster is carved into objects and of course there is a shop – surprise, surprise – and being the typical tragic tourist I am – I buy a small alabaster sphinx and pyramid, along with an alabaster egg! After that – it’s back on the bus and off to – – the Temple of Al-Deir Al-Bahari or in other words – the Temple of Hatshepsut.
To know that less than 12 months ago this site was the place where tourists were tragically massacred – well, it’s just weird. We go through security checkpoints when we enter – and then we have a long walk to get to the temple and there are guards everywhere even on top of the hillsides.
HISTORY LESSON : Hatshepsut reigned from 1479-1457BC. She came to power after the death of her brother Tuthmose II and assumed the regency as Tuthmose III was too young, then she had herself enthroned as Pharaoh.
The design of the temple is attributed to Senenmut (rumoured to be Hatshepsut’s lover) – and he was certainly inspired by the concepts already realized by the builders of the Temple of Mentuhotep which is part of the complex. The Temple of Hatshepsut is undoubtedly the most impressive building of western Thebes. On the upper terrace there are Osirian statues of the Queen, now mostly destroyed.
In the photo on the right – Hatshepsut (on the right) making a ritual offering of wine to the god Re-Harakhty. The temple is lovely – what a masterpiece. It is on 3 levels but we can only visit the bottom two. The hieroglyphs of her expedition to Punt and the colour still remaining in the paintings is incredible.
On my way out of the temples I stand at the top of the ramp and look over the valley. Now I know this sounds ridiculous – but I get a very eerie feeling of being there again – it is very familiar somehow and I imagine all the temples around me and the gardens. I think I must have gone into some sort of trance – maybe it was the sun and excitement – or just maybe I was there thousands of years ago!!! I like to think it is the latter.
After staying here for an hour or so it’s off to the Valley of the Workmen at Deir-el-Medina.
HISTORY LESSON : The village was founded in the 18th dynasty and was originally called Set Maat which means ‘Place of Truth’ or ‘Place of Order’.
This is where the artisans, who worked on royal tombs lived with their families. Although the village was inhabited well into the Roman-period, its function as the residence of the artisans lasted for only the three centuries leading up until the end of the Ramesside period.
The village then housed approximately 1200 people and was separated into two halves by a main street – sort of a cardo maximus – from which tiny alleys branched out. The dwellings were modest and made up of a few chambers. The village was once walled and gated, and the gates were locked at night. This is because the community was heavily guarded and under surveillance, due to their detailed knowledge of the locations of the royal tombs, which were under constant threat of robbery.
Mohamed arranges for us to visit some of the tombs – and we have to pay the ‘Tomb Keeper’ LE5 so that we can take a photo. Of course no flash photography.
The first tomb we visit is that of Sennutem – ‘Servant of the Truth’. He lived in the time of Seti I and Ramses II (19thdynasty) and his burial chamber was found intact in 1886. Sennutem was an overseer of works at the royal tombs who lived in this valley like other workers.
He built his tomb only steps away from his family’s residence and the tomb was reused by his family over time. Upon discovery, there were twenty mummies found in the tomb along with many objects – all intact. Although small, the tomb’s walls are painted with the most astonishing hieroglyphs and images with an incredible state of preservation. Scenes of farming fill the walls, as well as many images of Sennutem and his wife. The god Osiris is also depicted on one of the walls.
His funerary equipment is now housed in the Cairo Museum. The richly decorated tomb is in a state of perfect preservation and is considered among the most beautiful of the necropolis.
The second tomb we see is that of Anherkha (see right) – 20thdynasty. ‘Foreman of the Lord of the Two Lands in the Place of Truth’.
He lived several decades after Sennutem during the time of Ramses III and Ramses IV. His role as artisan was very important and his tomb, although very small, reflects his position in the extremely rich and refined decorations in scenes from ‘The Book of the Dead’ and ‘Book of Gates’. The walls contain hieroglyphs and images of Anherkhau, his wife and descendants, as well as the god Anubis.
After the excitement of fulfilling all these dreams we head back to the boat and more pool relaxation before dinner. In the night we sit on the pool deck and look at the brilliant stars hanging in the black Egyptian sky.
It’s like it’s 3,000 years ago all over again.
Highlight of the day : the Pharaoh Tutankhamen lying in state.
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