POMPEII – baths to Rome
After paying our respects to the ancient Pompeiians we move on to our next stop – the Forum Baths. On our way our tummies start to rumble and getting up so early this morning is taking its toll, after all we have been on the road for a while so a little bit of sustenance will not go astray.
The local cafeteria seems good so we go inside, find some seats and get some pizza and cold drink. Food is OK – nothing spectacular so if you are looking for restaurant type meals you will be disappointed. It is good to have a rest and I know my little tootsies are very grateful. After being fed and watered and availing ourselves of the rest rooms we head off once again.There are three main public baths in Pompeii – the Stabian Baths; the Forum baths and the Central Baths. The Forum Baths are the smallest but the most elegant of the three. They were built shortly after the establishment of Sulla’s Colony in 80BC. Despite their small size, they contained everything necessary for the full bathing ritual – dressing rooms; gymnasium; exercise field; hot, tepid and cold rooms and toilets.
The baths were also divided into separate facilities for men and women. They were the only baths still functioning in Pompeii after the earthquake of AD62. Today we visit the mens section.
The garden courtyard above left is the gymnasium where those great looking Pompeiians could ‘get physical’ and the not so great looking ones could only sigh and admire. The photo above right is the dressing room and the holes in the wall held wooden poles on which the clients hung their clothes.
After a brisk workout they could then immerse themselves in either a warm bath (tepidarium) , hot bath (caldarium) or cold plunge (frigidarium). So let’s go see the ‘baths’.
Over the non-slip mosaics and we find ourselves in the tepidarium.
The tepidarium is ringed by many statues designed as supporting pillars and also used for dividing the lockers of the male patrons. The men could also have a massage on one of the warmed bronze benches. If you look up at the half crushed ceiling, there is still some magnificent blue and white stucco work.
Next room is the steam bath room or caldarium. The double floor was heated from below which made the tootsies nice and comfortable.
The terracotta tiled walls held the heat while the ancients soaked in the big tub filled with hot water and I would hasten to add no bubble bath!
Opposite the tub is the fountain that spilled water onto the hot floor creating the steam which rose as condensation. The ceiling grooves were used to direct the condensation back down the walls.
Unfortunately we do not get to see the frigidarium so after a good look around and to escape the ever increasing tourist numbers we head outside. Across the road from the baths are what Steve calls ‘the fast food joints’.
Most Pompeiians did not cook for themselves. The houses of the ‘lower classes’ were small with no kitchen so you ordered out. The well-to-do had kitchens and servants to cook for them.
Located on several corners and looking like open-air bars, these one-room establishments were where busy citizens could grab a quick meal and glass of wine on the run.
They were identified by colorful signs and awnings over their wares. Like modern coffee bars in Italy today, customers stood at an L-shaped brick counter to order. There were jars full of containers with lids to keep food hot or cold and to keep the vermin out. There were also amphorae of wine, which they could consume on the spot, take out to a few wooden seats provided on the street, or, in some cases, to a small back garden. To use words by our friend Rick – McCaesars – Julius in the Box and Burger Emp were very popular.
Seeing that there is no food on offer today we make our way to the next point of interest – The House of the Tragic Poet. Mmmmm – interesting name to say the least. The house derives its name from a particularly fine mosaic with a theatrical scene which was found in the tablinum along with paintings representing episodes from the Iliad.
The house is of a typical Roman floor plan and the entry is flanked by two family owned shops. Yep – due to restoration – we cannot venture inside but Rick gives me an indication of what I would have seen. The only thing I can see in detail is 
a mosaic depicting an almost life size growling dog, complete with such details as eyes, collar and chain and the well known words of warning “cave canem” or “beware of the dog” is the decoration found near the entrance.
Past the door is the atrium with an open skylight and a pool to catch the rain. Next is a ‘den’ where the shopkeeper struck deals with his customers and once through the house is the garden where there are various domestic rooms facing around the perimeter and a shrine remembering the gods and the family ancestors.
There are a quick few Kodak moments and we are on our way once again.
Down the narrow street with the ever present chariot grooves and we come across a picture-perfect postcard view of Mt Vesuvius with an ancient aqueduct arch in the foreground.
Water was, of course, high priority to Pompeii and this arch, which was originally covered in marble, was part of the ancient plumbing water delivery system. A long aqueduct carried fresh water down from the hillsides into a main reservoir at the highest part of the city wall.
The water pressure was not very good so many arches were built to improve it. Consequently the water from the reservoir flowed downhill to the tank which was atop the arch. The water was then supplied to the neighbourhood.
Next stop – The House of the Faun.
In front of the house, on the ground, is a tiled sign ‘Have” meaning ‘hail’ or ‘be well’. This house was the largest and most expensive residence in ancient Pompeii, and today it is the most visited of all the houses.
With 40 rooms and area of 27,000 square feet, the house covers a whole block. Built in the late second century BC, the house is remarkable for the lavish mosaics which covered the floors, some still in place, and some at the Naples Museum.
Once over the ‘welcome mat’ I am greeted by an area that holds two shrines high on the walls – one to the Gods and the other to the ancestors of this wealthy family.
This area leads us to the atrium and the famous bronze statue of the Dancing Faun which is well famed for its realistic movement and fine proportions. It is in prime position being the first thing you see when you enter.
This is only a copy – the original is in the – you guessed it – Naples Museum. An atrium is a rectangular open air court, sometimes paved and sometimes with an interior basin (impluvium) for catching rainwater.
The statue is set in the so-called ‘Tuscan’ atrium which is floored with a layer of plain black mortar, and in the center of it is a strikingly white limestone impluvium paved with a pattern of colored limestone and slate. The statue stands in this, giving it a watery surround.
Moving on to the piece de resistance – the famous mosaic of Alexander and Darius.
It’s 333BC and Alexander the Great (on the left riding a horse) is defeating the King of Persia, Darius III (on the right fleeing in a chariot) during the Battle of Issus. After this battle Alexander established the great Greek Empire.
This is a copy of course – the original is – well you know where. The exit through the back of the gardens takes us onto another narrow street and of course we get lost. Well not lost really – let’s just say we temporarily don’t know where we are. We head up the hill to discover we are nowhere near where Rick reckons we should be, but hey, let’s just go with the flow.
Back down the little street and we find our way to the House of the Vettii.
This is the best preserved house in Pompeii and was once owned by two brothers. The house retains most of the mosaics and frescoes and standing at the entrance door, and this is as far as we get because it is closed for restoration, we are confronted by what some would call pornographic art.
The picture on the left has a particular meaning. The penis and sack of gold balance each other on a goldsmith scale above a fine bowl of fruit. ‘Only with a balance of fertility (the huge erection) and money (the gold) can you enjoy true abundance (the bowl of fruit).
The Vettii brothers made their fortune as wine merchants and were then able to essentially purchase the elite status of freeborn aristocrats. Along with the rise of the wealthy freedmen in Pompeii, a notable decline in moral standards could be observed. This is evidenced by the graphic and sexual nature of the artwork that dominated the post-earthquake decorations.
This is all that we get to see so we head off to the bakery. Unfortunately this bakery shut for business many, many years so no hot Cheeseymite rolls today!
Passing some interesting taps (above left) we discover more ancient artwork at the House of the Boar. The house, also known as the House of the Ancient Hunt, had been renovated following the earthquake of 62AD. The walls retain some of the original frescoes but most of it is in poor condition.
Arriving at the bakery we have to work hard to imagine the smells of hot pizzas, rolls and other baking delights.
The huge grey mills were made out of volcanic rock and were turned either by slaves, convicts, or mules using a wooden framework. You can see the holes where the turning rods were placed. The grain was poured in the top of the mills, crushed between the surfaces of two stones and then collected as flour around the circular stone base that was protected by a thin sheet of lead. Obviously the flour also contained small pieces of the original grinding stones.
Wood was used to heat the ovens which were beside the mills. A layer of sand under the floor of the oven and on top of the oven cover prevented heat loss. The opening of the oven was made of slabs of lava and was closed with an iron door.
Continuing down the road we are heading for the Taberna Hedones. An ancient tavern – and unfortunately once again no service here. In close proximity to the tavern is the Lupanare or what we call today – the brothel. The ladies of the brothel were called Lupar or She-wolves. These ladies came from all parts of the world and are always shown with white skin.
The lupanare was the official brothel of Pompeii. As a trading town, it was visited every day by large numbers of people, especially traders from other towns. The brothel was a simple place with the beds and pillows made of stone, although for comfort they did have a mattress.
On the walls there is ancient graffiti which probably depicted what type of service was offered by the lady of the room.
After the delights of the brothel it is time to head to the Temple of Isis for some purifying thoughts! This Egyptian temple served the Egyptian residents of the community.
The Temple which sits on a raised podium in the centre of the Courtyard has a porticoed entrance with niches on either side of the entrance. The walls were originally covered in white stucco and along the back wall statues of Isis and Osiris were situated.
The Temple’s main altar – above right – is to the left of the steps. I find it extremely strange to find a Temple to a Goddess of ancient Egypt here in Pompeii.
This is the last port of call on our self-guided day tour of Pompeii. It is getting late in the afternoon and we still have to get back to the station for our journey to Rome and home.
Back up the narrow streets to the Marina and we find ourselves in front of one of the local refreshment stands that sell fruit juice and snacks. Does look good I must say, and a cold glass of orange juice would hit the spot but we need to get to the train and anyway the prices are really over the top.
A short walk to the station and then a relaxing journey back to Rome. Glad to get home and relax – remembering another day in the Eternal City awaits tomorrow.
Highlight of the day : The House of the Faun