PHILADELPHIA – VALLEY FORGE – LANCASTER – history on the move

Wednesday – A late brekky as everything to do with National Parks is still closed.  Obviously my little rant on national TV did not work.  Just wait until I get to Washington!  We check out saying goodbye to our wonderful hotel staff and then head off to pick up our car from Budget.  Yep, staying true to form another stuff up!

Our designated driver Kylie has booked the car but the name of who is paying and the driver must match. Who makes these stupid rules? I bet it is the Tea Party.  Much heated discussion with Mr Budget No People Skills – but he does not budge – so to cut a long story short – we have no other way out so I pay – meaning I can drive but I have to pay for an extra driver (being Kylie).  Talk about a cash grab – this day is not starting out too well.  I am in need of a drink and it is only around 10am.

We finally sort this out, get the keys and head to the car which is smaller than we thought.  Finally cramming everything in, including us, we depart Philly on the Washington trail.  Working our way out of the city we pass Boathouse Row that we were going to see at night remember?  HISTORY LESSON : Boathouse Row is a historic site located on the east bank of the Schuylkill River, just north of the Fairmount Water Works and the Philadelphia Museum of Art. It consists of a row of 15 boathouses housing social and rowing clubs and their racing shells. Each of the boathouses has its own history.  

Bugger the lights are not on but at least we get to see it and I imagine it would be great at night.

It’s only about a 30 minute drive to Valley Forge so today’s plans are out the window seeing that we were going to spend nearly all day there.  The morning is so refreshingly cool and misty and the Autumn colours are fabulous.  On our arrival we are greeted with the entrance sign – always a Kodak moment – and then of course – the closed for business sign of which I will not bore you by showing here.  We continue our drive through the area and note that even the roadside parking areas are barricaded so we cannot pull up and have a look at anything.  Who decided to put up these barriers? Someone needs to answer for this stupidity, but we are fortunate to arrive at Washington Memorial Chapel which has a large parking area.  Grabbing cameras and jackets we head off for a walk.

Across the road from The Chapel is a monument erected to the ‘Soldiers of Washington’s Army who sleep in Valley Forge 1777 – 1778’.  This was erected in 1901 by the Daughters of the Revolution.

There is a pathway down to The Monument and around us on all sides are reminders of the war.  Small huts and canons occupy the vast area where Washington’s troops became part of history.

HISTORY LESSON : On 19th December 1777, when Washington’s poorly fed, ill-equipped army, weary from long marches, staggered into Valley Forge, winds blew as the 12,000 Continentals prepared for Winter’s fury. Only about one in three of them had shoes, and many of their feet had left bloody footprints from the marching.  Grounds for encampments were selected, and defense lines were planned and begun.  During the bitter Winter starvation, disease and exposure killed nearly 2,500 soldiers by the end of February 1778.

Today as we stand here in rather warmer temperatures than Washington and his men had to endure, it is difficult to imagine the hardships that these men had to fight just for their very survival.  It is a desolate area and would be more so once the snow starts to fall.  After about half an hour we head back up the pathway toward the Washington Memorial Chapel.

Before we cross the road I spy this hut amongst the trees. I cannot see any sign with any information on it but I would like to think that it is an original building and maybe even Washington visited whoever was billeted inside.

Doesn’t it look cold and drafty? Then again so pretty sitting underneath the Autumn leaves.  OK – on to the Chapel.

HISTORY LESSON :  On 19th June 1903 – the 125th anniversary of the evacuation of the Continental Army from Valley Forge -the cornerstone was laid.  A small framed building preceded the present structure. The original structure was named the “Theodore Roosevelt Chapel”, in honour of President Roosevelt after his visit to the site and address in 1904.  The Chapel was completed in 1917 and is currently the home of an active parish in addition to serving as a National Memorial to Washington. The Chapel serves as a wayside chapel to those who visit Valley Forge National Historical Park, and welcomes visitors from all over the world.

What a pretty place.  Washington Memorial Chapel is surrounded by wonderful foliage and to the left of the main area is a walkway that takes you to the Cemetery which is located in a wonderfully wooded area.  Around the outskirts are cannon which I presume were used in the Revolutionary War.

Back to the main Chapel and first thing I feel on entering is a sense of history and calm.  The stained glass window and the woodwork have been crafted by those who really were committed to their craft.

We are allowed to take photos – no flash – so off I go – reading the history and appreciating the artifacts and craftsmanship that has gone into such a wonderful place and of course, taking photos to appreciate even more when I get back home.

Our next stop is the Chapel shop, situated outside at the back of the Chapel.  They have wonderful home made goods including jams and spreads, both sweet and savoury.  Kylie and I decide that coffee and cookies is a good idea – mainly to warm us up and secondly because the cookies look fabulous.  (As if we need an excuse to eat).

The ladies in the shop are so welcoming that it is hard to not buy something.  I settle on a jar of Christmas Jam – made with cranberries, strawberries and all sorts of good things.  Spoiler alert – this jam will create a drama at JFK airport.

Time to head towards Lancaster where we will be spending the night.  Lancaster is in the heart of Amish Territory and I can hardly wait to see first hand how these people live and work using just the basics of life.

Heading West along Highway 30W it is only about an hour drive before we arrive at tonight’s accommodation – the Fulton Steamboat Inn.  What an incredible place to stay. 

Before you all think how wonderful it will be to stay aboard a steamboat – let me tell you now that it is not a workable steamboat – as seen in the MGM movie ‘Showboat’ – consequently I will not be breaking into a medley of Jerome Kern songs, although Old Man River springs to mind.  It is bedecked both inside and out to look like a steamboat but it is not on a river – even the rooms are nautically themed.  We check in and our room is on the Sun Deck (the children free top floor) – everything is going to plan.

Our room is very spacious and it even has a fireplace so we turn on the electric fire – whacko.  What a cosy place – outside it is overcast and doom and gloom – inside all snuggly – what more could we want – well maybe food.

After getting unpacked and settled in it is time to explore this part of the world.  Kylie is after some quilting supplies so we drive around the area and see quite a few horse-drawn buggies which are being driven by the Amish.  We also find a few quilting shops – some of which are staffed by Amish ladies who are making handicrafts which will then go on sale.

There is also a shopping mall where we buy some kettle chips and they are the best I have tasted.  All cooked in front of your eyes – and using this as an appetizer we go in search of an extremely late lunch or a very early dinner – either will suffice.

Driving along back toward our Steamboat we go through a town called Bird-in-Hand and in this town is a wonderful eatery called ‘Bird-in-Hand Family Restaurant and Smorgasbord’.  Let me tell you that the food is incredible.  We are seated immediately in a corner booth, order our drinks and then it’s time to wander down to the trough.  Every type of food you can imagine is here and I settle for a bit of everything – roasts, veggies, salads, pasta, desserts – you can check it all out on the link.  Once again I have made a pig of myself but the food was delicious and from memory I think the price was around $15.00 each including non-alcoholic beverages.

After devouring everything in sight (including some incredible cherry pie, jelly and ice cream) we look at each other and wonder how we are going to get out of the booth – yep – wasn’t easy.  Lumbering back to the car we collapse into the seats and I am sure I heard the car groan under the weight!

Back to our Steamboat, all we want to do now is shower and crawl into our lovely comfy beds – after the gluttony of this afternoon I am sure we will not have to eat for the remainder of the trip!

Highlight of the Day : Washington Memorial Chapel and the lovely ladies.