2003 Discovering Britain & Ireland – Day 21

DUBLIN to CHESTER – I’ll be here in sunshine or in shadow

Saturday – today we leave Ireland behind us and travel back across the Irish Sea. The sky is clear with just a touch of mist so let’s hope that it will be a good crossing.  This ferry is bigger than the first one that took us to Ireland!!!!

Same story – drive on in the coach – get off the coach – go up the lifts to the decks – and by the time we do that, the mist and fog are back so – nothing to do but have some lunch, a drink or two and some more shopping.  I am thoroughly demoralised with the lousy mists so no photos on this journey.

We dock – go down the lifts – get into the coach and off we go. We land in Holyhead in North Wales and make our way through the Welsh countryside.

Paul tells us that we are coming up on the place in Wales with the longest name – however we do not stop and therefore we don’t get off the coach – we just get to take a photo of the name – if we are lucky enough to be on the right side of the bus and have cameras in our hot little hands – which I am and do –

LLANFAIRPWLLLGWYNGYLLGOGERYCHWYRNDROBWLLLLANTYSILIOGOGOGOCH

Now of course everyone knows that means – ‘St Mary’s Church in the Hollow of the White Hazel near to the Rapid Whirlpool of Llantysilio of the Red Cave’.  You didn’t?  Well shame on you!  Am glad I have my Advantix camera so that I can take a landscape photo of that one.

Some people miss out but too bad we are on our way again. A few groans and grumbles are heard from certain sections of the coach.

We pass houses on little islands and I take photos just because I think they are nice.  Wouldn’t it be great to live on something like this?

We arrive back in England at Chester – what a great place.

The buildings are very Elizabethan looking with their Tudor Rows and split timber decorations.

These unique streets with two-tier part timber shops are located in the very heart of the city centre branching out along Eastgate Street, Foregate Street, Northgate Street, and Bridge Street.

Perhaps the most photographed sight (I don’t argue with that) in Chester, the Rows date back 700 years and were built shortly after the Great Fire of Chester that destroyed almost the whole city in 1278.

Back then there were shops and warehouses at street level and living quarters on the upper level with long galleries acting as a hall.

In the Tudor and Jacobean period the upper floors were built out over the gallery, supported on long poles down to the street level. This now gives a feeling that the shops lean in over the street.

Paul gives us a little tour in his very informative way and afterwards we are left to roam by ourselves. I once again take off to see as much as I can and take some more photos.

Time for a walk around the walls of Chester where I discover a large clock that forms part of the wall.

HISTORY LESSON : Chester city walls consist of a defensive structure built to protect the city of Chester in Cheshire, England. Their construction was started by the Romans when they established the fortress of Deva Victrix between 70 and 80 AD. It originated with a rampart of earth and turf surmounted by a wooden palisade.

From about 100 AD they were reconstructed using sandstone, but were not completed until over 100 years later. Following the Roman occupation nothing is known about the condition of the walls until Æthelflæd refounded Chester as a burgh in 907.

The defences were improved, although the precise nature of the improvement is not known. After the Norman conquest, the walls were extended to the west and the south to form a complete circuit of the medieval city. The circuit was probably complete by the middle of the 12th century. Maintenance of the structure of the walls was an ongoing concern.

They were further fortified before the Civil War, and were damaged during the war. Following this they ceased to have a defensive purpose, and were developed for leisure and recreation. The walls are now a major tourist attraction, and form an almost complete circuit of the former medieval city, providing a walkway of about 2 miles (3.2 km). Upkeep and repair of the walls continues to be a problem.

Walking along the walls I come to the Roman Amphitheatre.

HISTORY LESSON : The amphitheatre is the largest so far uncovered in Britain, and dates from the 1st century, when the Roman fort of Deva Victrix was founded.

It would have been primarily for military training and drill, but would also have been used for cock fighting, bull baiting and combat sports, including classical boxing, wrestling and gladiatorial combat.

The poet Oppian wrote that the Romans inherited the Greek passion for the cockfight, which was held “on anniversaries . . . as a solemn rite”, a consecration, in effect a sacred cockfight, to remind men that they should be “perpetual imitators of the cock”. 

In use through much of the Roman occupation of Britain, the amphitheatre fell into disuse around the year 350. It was only rediscovered in 1929, when one of the pit walls was discovered during construction work. Between 2004 and 2006, excavation of the amphitheatre took place for Chester City Council and English Heritage.

Finishing my walk around part of the walls I head for Chester Cathedral.   

HISTORY LESSON : The cathedral, typical of English cathedrals in having been modified many times, dates from between 1093 and the early 16th century, although the site itself may have been used for Christian worship since Roman times.

The cathedral, formerly St Werburgh’s abbey church of a Benedictine monastery, is dedicated to Christ and the Blessed Virgin Mary. Since 1541 it has been the seat of the Bishop of Chester and centre of worship, administration, ceremony and music for the city and diocese.

The town is packed – but finding a spot on the River Dee it is nice and quiet.  Much too soon it is time to leave Chester City for our overnight hotel – Holiday Inn South which is right out of town in a quiet place so it’s no going back if you miss anything.

From what I remember the hotel was nothing flash. Dinner is provided tonight, unfortunately I cannot remember what it was. By this time I have stopped writing in my journal.  Bummer.

Why are we staying so far out of town?  Would have been nice to go for a walk this evening. This is definitely not one of Insight’s centrally located hotels!

Highlight of the day: The buildings of Chester.