LUDLOW to CARDIFF – cheeses and leeks
Today we head toward Ludlow in Shropshire. Lovely little town with a very ancient castle which now lies in ruins. I make the most of my time and make a dash for Ludlow Castle – entry fee ₤3.50.
HISTORY LESSON : Ludlow Castle is a partly ruined uninhabited medieval building in the town of the same name in the English county of Shropshire. It stands on a high point overlooking the River Teme and in the Middle Ages it was an important strategic stronghold for control of the Welsh Borders, and at times the seat of English government in Wales.
The castle was probably founded by Walter de Lacy in the late 11th century.
Possession of Ludlow Castle descended through the Lacy family until 1115 by which point had Hugh de Lacy died without any children and his property taken over by the king.
Pain fitzJohn (yes that is the correct name) married Hugh de Lacy’s niece, Sybil, and through her acquired a good deal of the family’s lands.
During the Anarchy Gilbert de Lacy, Sybil’s cousin, laid claim to the family’s estates and during the course of the civil war control of the castle change hands several times. Gilbert regained the property and control of Ludlow Castle once again descended through the Lacy family. In the late 12th and early 13th centuries Ludlow Castle was taken into the care of the crown on multiple occasions to ensure the family’s loyalty.
The family owned the castle until the 14th century, when it came into the possession of the Mortimers through marriage. Early in the 14th century, the castle was enlarged into a magnificent palace for Roger Mortimer, 1st Earl of March, then the most powerful man in England.
The earls of Powis began renting Ludlow Castle from the Crown in 1772, and bought the structure in 1811. The castle has descended through the family since and is owned by The Trustees of the Powis Castle Estate on behalf of the family of the earls.
Climbing to the top of the tower I have to negotiate the really narrow staircase and once at the top you get a great view. The countryside is so green and it is not hard to imagine what things would have been like all those years ago when this castle was fully operational.
Today there is a market in the town square which I will fully discover after the castle. Can you see the market? The skies are sort of clear – – so I make the most of them and walk around the top of the castle taking a view from just about everywhere I stop.
I manage to get back down the staircase without doing myself a mischief – it’s harder going down than what it was going up and then it’s off to discover the town AND the market. Lots of bric-a-brac and interesting items and there is an oh-so-cute teddy bear but I really do have to be strong and not buy anything as my bags are getting heavier by the day.
The buildings are very Tudor-ish, a little bit like Chester with the split timbers. This is a very old hotel called The Feathers.
HISTORY LESSON: The oldest part of The Feathers, including the world famous timber façade, was built in 1619 (during the reign of King James I). The name of the hotel springs from the motifs of ostrich feathers forming part of the timber framed façade constructed in 1616 for the investiture of Charles as Prince of Wales (Later King Charles I).
Ludlow was a town with Royalist sympathies and remained loyal throughout the English Civil War, during which it is thought that Royalist soldiers were billeted at the Feathers until it was converted into an inn around 1670.
As well as providing food, beer and accommodation, the inn was occasionally used as a venue for cock-fighting and prize-fighting.
We cross back into Wales at Monmouth and go through the Wye Valley where we stop at Tintern Abbey which is about 4km north of Chepstow. Founded in 1131 by the Cistercian monks who cultivated the surrounding lands it is now one of the greatest monastic ruins in Wales.
By the 14th century this was the richest abbey in Wales with buildings being added until it, along with other monasteries, were dissolved by Henry VIII in 1536. We don’t go in but I can still take lots of photos from the streets. Very eerie feeling about this place. It’s strange that when you are near these ruined abbeys – everyone talks in hushed tones. Ever since the 18thcentury, travellers have been enchanted by Tintern’s setting in the steep and wooded Wye Valley.
After a stretch of the legs (read more photos) and a bit of shopping at the little tourist shop we get back on the coach and head off for Cardiff. The country side is fabulous – it is still very green even though we have not had any rain.
Our hotel for the night in Cardiff is the Hanover International. Very nice and clean, big comfy bed and the bathroom has a huge big bath. WOW!! Am just relaxing on the bed in my undies (because it is Summer and hot remember) when I hear a noise and some family comes trekking through the door. Hello says they – hello says I, what are you doing here?
This is our room – says they; no it is mine – says I – and a quick grab for anything to cover up. The family is very apologetic and embarrassed (aren’t we all) and I am not too happy with what has occurred let me tell you – so after I recover from the shock, I throw on some clothes and head down to reception to give them a mouthful.
Apparently the hotel computers went down and when this family checked in they gave them my room number. Apologies, apologies. I think the family got a bigger shock than me. Anyway all is settled so back upstairs to relax some more and then it’s time for –
#13 OPTIONAL: Welsh Musical Evening and Dinner – Cost ₤32.50
Hidden away down some very interesting narrow laneways and roads that are just wide enough for the coach is the oldest house in Wales – Kemeys Manor.
HISTORY LESSON : From the sixth century onwards the Kemeys Estate was steeped in historic folklore and fact. In 1066 John Pain assisted William of Normandy at The Battle of Hastings and he was given the Kemeys estate in recognition of his loyalty. The fearless Bowmen of Gwent practised their skills here before and after Agincourt.
A carved stone portrait of George Kemeys, lawyer and member of parliament, dated 1623, is set above one of the massive fireplaces in the great hall.
A lovely old house, it is privately owned and the owner gives us a little guided tour around the grounds before going in. The chimneys on the house are really special and are called barley sugar.
The staff – 3 ladies who are serving us are all singers and they have fabulous voices and together with the man playing the harp (who is great) the music of the Welsh resounds through the building. We have a really nice traditional Welsh meal with fine wine, enjoy some wonderful stirring Welsh singing and have a wander around the inside of the house. What a great night. Even though I think it is a bit overpriced (I can’t help converting back to Aussie Dollars) – if the money goes toward keeping the house in this condition I am happy to pay it. 
I also buy the CD of them singing – just can’t help being a tourist of the First Degree. A wonderful evening.
Three likely lads. Left to right – – Paul – our Tour Director; Kenny – our Coach Driver; and the owner of Kemey’s Manor whose name I do not remember.
We leave the house and head back down the narrow lanes which seem a bit narrower at this stage. The night is pitch black and Kenny does a fabulous job of driving – he is a real hoot.
Highlight of the day: The singing at Kemeys Manor.