NAIROBI to AMBOSELI – head ’em up and move ’em out

Sunday – Another great night in that most comfortable bed, but once I realise what day it is I jump out with excitement because this is the day we start our trek.  Yesterday I met some ladies who had returned from the first CB safari and by the sounds of things they had a great time – although they said it was pretty full on.

I suppose it all depends on what you think ‘full on’ means but am so looking forward to seeing and experiencing what they did. How on earth am I going to decide what photos to put in this daily adventure?  SPOILER ALERT – at the final count at the end of my journey there are over 6000 taken in 14 days – I can see plenty of medicinal alcohol coming up.

Anyway, as usual I digress – back to the story –

Once we have organised our luggage and are all together we head off to the conference room for our chat with Chris and Jess about what we should expect from this safari. We then have to say a few words about ourselves and why we came on this Safari (to see animals without fences and to experience that I am now in their totally wild territory).  This is followed by some camera tips, reminders to drink plenty of water and take our malaria tablets and Chris strongly advises us not to forget that T.I.A. Anyone know what this means? This Is Africa.  Yep, sure is.  WOW!!!

Let’s go – we also have to remember to make sure our bags are in the jeep before we leave anywhere as we cannot go back!  I am in the jeep with 3 other trekkers, Jess and John the driver who has made sure we all have plenty of water in our bottles.  I don’t know if it is the excitement or anything else but my bottle is half empty and we haven’t even left!  Quick refill.

We have a journey through the outskirts of Nairobi that is worthy of a safari title in itself and John deserves a medal – (we deserve a drink, and not water) before we reach our first stop – the African Fund for Endangered Wildlife.  It is also known as The Giraffe Sanctuary, and is a place where rescued Rothschild giraffes, (who like so many species are endangered) are kept so that they can breed and keep the species alive.  Hopefully they can be released back into the wild –

Considering that giraffes are very tall animals, a very sturdy raised feeding platform is used so that they do not place strain on their necks and we can feed them at ease.  We are all given a handful of pellets and our long necked friends know when they are on a good thing because now I have lots of friends – they are so pretty.

Everyone knows I hate having my photo taken but just had to put this in – they are the cutest things – not me you fools – the giraffe!

They just roam around in the acres of land and you can tell that they are so well looked after and loved by the people here.

There is also an auditorium inside the viewing platform where visitors are given very interesting talks about the centre’s activities, conservation and giraffes (well worth attending if you are visiting). The platform also contains a display of various pieces of art done by the local school children during the annual environmental competition which are sold out to raise funds for the ecology trip programme for the underpriviledged children.

Apart from the giraffes we also had a chance to say hello to some warthogs, which shall be referred to as Pumbas in the days ahead – and also a Leopard tortoise who devoured his food ever so slowly.

Poor old Pumba – granted he is not the most handsomest of creatures and to add insult to injury he is missing a tusk, but he commands enough interest for us to take photos and he does look as if he needs a cuddle.

Our next place of interest is the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust where they take care of baby orphaned elephants.

The aim of Trust is to rear the orphaned elephants in such a way that they can eventually return to a wild life and integrate with other wild elephants. The reintegration process is one that can take up to ten years and varies for each individual, depending on what age it was when it was orphaned and how well it can recall its elephant family. The orphans remain in care as long as is necessary, until each orphan makes the decision to leave the Reintegration Centre and live independently of their human family.

It is only open to the public for one hour every day and the babies arrive at the special enclosure to receive their midday feeding and mudbath.  When we arrive there is already quite a few people but not so many as to make it uncomfortable.

After gaining admittance we line up around the feeding area and are given a talk about the elephants and some of the reasons why they are here. The first group of babies come in – they are the youngest that can go ‘on parade’. There are much younger ones that are kept back in the nursery as this experience could make them agitated.

Some babies were found down wells, some still standing by their mothers who were killed by poachers; it really is enough to break your heart to think that people can do this for the sake of money.

The front leg (on the left looking at the photo) has been injured because of a snare.  It’s enough to bring tears to your eyes, but he is on the mend and should regain full use of his leg.  The keepers are so great with them and you can see on the elephants’ faces just how much they return that love.

The little ones are then taken back to their nursery under the watchful eye of the ‘Ostrich Guards’ and the next group of older ones come in.  They have stories to tell as well.

These are just as cute but a bit more ‘grown up’.  They seem to be a bit more gregarious and are not bashful in coming up to everyone to see what they can get.  They also like rolling around in the red dirt and then throwing it over their heads and backs.

This little one (photo above right) has been severely injured as you can see.  Snares damaged the right front foot and there is a hole in her trunk.  Hopefully she will make a full recovery.

Ultimately, elephants need space, and the Tsavo Conservation Area with over 64,000 square kilometres can provide the space an elephant needs for a quality life. Of course, having already invested so much into their care and well being throughout the reintegration process, and with the goal to see them enjoying life in the wild, keeping the ex-orphans safe remains very much a priority.

For that reason, the Trust operates nine Anti-Poaching Units working in conjunction with the Kenya Wildlife Service, of which eight are based within the Tsavo Conservation Area, as well as four Trust and Kenya Wildlife Mobile Veterinary Units.

Together with the Aerial Surveillance Unit, all of which cover thousands of kilometres on patrol every month.  The ground and air teams are working around the clock to keep the ex-orphans, wild elephants and other wildlife safe.

After our hour with these wonderful babies it is time for us to regroup and head for lunch at a venue called Matbronze – a place that produces bronze sculptures of African animals and artefacts – most interesting.  There is also a cafe and an open area under the trees for us to play and enjoy our lunch.

The outcome of our lunch here is that I buy a small elephant – about 4cm high –  to take back home.  It is not very heavy and will not be a burden in my luggage and will be a nice way to remember the start of our journey.

Now we begin the alleged 4 hour trek to the first of our venues  – Kibo Safari Camp which is located in close proximity to Amboseli National Park.

The first part of the journey goes smoothly – sunshine and blue skies, the never ending traffic swerving from lane to lane and even overtaking on the side of the road, cattle grazing along the roadside – just the usual afternoon Kenyan jaunt and as we continue further South the skies start to show a sign of things to come.

One semi has left the road prematurely (it is not raining yet) and is now sitting on the side of the road with the cabin at a 90 degree angle to the trailer.  This is the first of many more truckie tumbles as the rain starts to fall and creates another problem.

The small roadside stalls harbouring hundreds of people selling their onions, potatoes, tomatoes etc all try to take shelter (seems pointless) but every now and again with a break in the rain and the slowing of traffic due to more truck accidents, some locals even walk down the centre of the road when traffic slows. They are braver than me Gungadin!

Finally we arrive at Kibo Safari Camp and are all glad to get out to stretch our legs which is easier said than done.

Welcomed with wonderful lemon scented hot towels and icy cold melon juice, I am instantly refreshed – to a certain degree.  We are whisked away to our tents and they look very comfortable to say the least.  Four poster bed with mozzie netting, plenty of room for our belongings, power and wifi only at certain times (but this will not interfere with charging of batteries or downloading if I plan it right), hot shower – yep everything is fine.

No photos of the inside tonight – I am beginning to feel exhausted and now I have to get ready to meet the group at the bar for pre-dinner drinks and a briefing about what we are going to experience tomorrow in Amboseli – home of the mighty elephants.  As we sit enjoying our alcoholic beverages, they bring out large dishes of hot, salty popcorn. Yep, could get used to this for sure.

I am going to end every day with what was to become lovingly known as ‘bum shots’.  This one was of course taken at the David Sheldrick Trust.

Highlight of the day: Those sweet, innocent baby elephants.