VERGINA – underground tombs and the treasures of Alexander’s dad

‘We are ephemeral; What truly is man? Man is but a dream shadow’ – Pindar 518-438 BC

At the southern end of the Macedonian plain is Aigai, (modern name Vergina) the premier city of Macedon.  It was here that critical sacred rites and ceremonies were performed and major feasts were celebrated – the place where the palaces and the tombs of the monarchs were located.

I am going to leave this as one post – it is going to be long so be prepared, but before we enter we must buy our tickets and of course the usual suspects start complaining about not being able to get a discount.  Listen up – a bit of wisdom from me – if you don’t do your homework before travelling and are such tight arses that you won’t part with 2 or 4 Euro, then do us all a favour and stay home! End of sermon!

It is time to enter the Great Tumulus (the entire burial area) which was constructed in the 3rd century BC. perhaps over smaller individual tumuli to protect the royal tombs from further pillaging after the marauding Galati had looted and destroyed the cemetery. Obviously time, weather and pillagers have taken their toll and the site has been improved and reconstructed for modern day activities.  Walking down the long entry to the tombs, our wonderful guide Demetra warns us that it is very dark inside and photography had always been banned here but the regulations have been relaxed and now it is allowed to take NO FLASH photography.  I see you all smile because you know what is coming up don’t you?

Doesn’t this entrance look fascinating?  We are at the Royal Macedonia Tombs – – Demetra was right – it is pitch black and it takes a while to get accustomed to the dark.  Another reminder by both Demetra and the officials that it is NO FLASH photography and off we go.

On the left as we walk in is a selection of Grave Stele.  Of course, the flashers go beserk – so they are told again and also told if they cannot take photos without a flash then they must put their cameras in their bags.  This goes over like a lead balloon with these pompous fools.

Below left is a stele dating 330-320 BC. Labelled as the Stele of Kleonymos portraying two men – a seated father and standing is his son, a woman, most probably the son’s wife and a small boy. There are inscriptions with the names of the persons who appear withing the frame.  Kleonymos son of Akylas, Adymos son of Kleonymos, Peukolaos son of Adymos, Krino wife of Adymos,

In the centre is the Stele of Antigonos dating from 340-330 BC, portraying a young man with his servant and his dog.  There is an inscription of his name – Antigonos. On the right is a very picturesque funerary krater.  Once I have enough photos I proceed further into the darkness.

On the left is Tomb IV.  It was discovered in 1980 and had an impressive entrance with four Doric columns though it is heavily damaged and may have contained valuable treasures.

It was built in the 4th century BC and may have belonged to Antigonus II Gonatas another Macedonian ruler.

The flashers who continue to ignore the rules have now been told to put their cameras in their bags or they will be confiscated.  Chuckle, chuckle, chuckle.

Next up is The Heroon of which the foundations and a few marble bits survive.  The Heroon was violently destroyed before the construction of the Great Tumulus when the adjacent tomb was pillaged.

The Heroon was a shrine dedicated to the worship of one or more dead, however if rites were performed here then it implies that the deceased were no ordinary mortals but persons to whom worship was due.

The tomb adjacent to the Heroon is known as Tomb I. It is a large grave constructed of poros blocks – and is the burial place of a young woman of about 25 years who died with her newborn baby. Because it is close to the tomb of Philip II, it possibly indicates that she was one of Philip’s seven wives.

The interior walls were adorned with incredible paintings that now rest behind protective barriers.  Below left is the painting of the Abduction of Persephone by Pluto – this was on the North wall.

Above right is Persephone’s mother Demeter which was on the East wall.  Below the Tomb of Philip II.

His last resting place is a large two chamber tomb with a facade that resembles a temple.  Usually there would have been a triangular pediment but it has an unusually high Ionic frieze depicting a royal hunt. Portraits of the two kings, father (Philip) and son (Alexander), are depicted in this scene as well as on the gold and ivory deathbed in the chamber.  Alexander wears a purple chiton (tunic) and is crowned with a wreath.

In the tomb’s antechamber, Philip’s Thracian wife, Meda (we presume), is buried with him, more about her later.  I imagine that when Philip died, it was his son Alexander that stood on the entrance step and sealed the door.  I am thinking he actually stood here!  Isn’t that a moment to treasure?  Speaking of treasure time to discover some more fabulous items – –

Weapons were for men what jewels were for women – they became symbols of his status and then followed him to his grave.  Spears, javelins, shields, swords and in rare cases helmets have been discovered in many burials and Philip’s armour (left) was all of the above.  There was also a wonderful suit of armour which we will see later.

Below left is a set of gilded greaves made from a bronze sheet lined with leather.  They fitted on each calf.  How do we know they belonged to Philip?  He suffered a penetrating wound to the leg from a spear that left him severely handicapped. His skeletal remains represent the first and only case of an injury from ancient Greece that can be directly compared to its historical record.

Centre is an gorytos – a bow case that was hung from the shoulder like a bag.  In it were kept the arrows and the bow.

Above right is a bronze wine jug with the magical face of the Gorgon which was supposed to turn away harm or evil influences, as in deflecting misfortune or averting the evil eye.  I love this piece!

Found scattered over the top of Philip’s tomb were the remains of his funeral pyre. Half burnt mud bricks, charcoal, charred animal bones and seeds.

Found inside the small gold coffin containing the burnt bones of Philip were half-melted elements from the gold oak wreath.

Furnishings of the dead spouse were also part of the burial.  Included in these treasures includes a wonderfully woven gold and purple cloth, used to wrap her bones

Made of  very fine woolen yarn, gold thread was used in the weaving and parts were dyed purple with porphyra the most precious pigment in Antiquity.

In the centre of this display is a glass case containing the suit of armour worn by Philip II. Consisting of a helmet, a gorget (neck covering)  breastplate, greaves, a sword and a shield.  Not only is this the fullest but also the most splendid, most precious, best preserved and perhaps the most valuable ever to have been made in Greece.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The helmet is the classical Athenian helmet – made from iron sheets which were beaten separately into the desired shape and then soldered together.  The crest plume is also of metal and not the usual feathers.  The breast plate was lined with leather and could be opened easily as it was fitted with hinges and decorated with thick gold straps.

The chryselephantine shield which completed the armour is impressive and certainly the most precious weapon known from the ancient world.

It was made of wood, leather and cloth which covered the inner surface.  Gilded silver strips were nailed to the inside – these were the straps that passed over the warrior’s grip.

The outer surface was coated entirely with gilded stucco giving the impression it was of solid gold.  There are pieces of ivory, cast glass and gold strips. It is very decorative and you really need to be here to appreciate the stories that go with the decoration.

In another case is the Gold larnax (small coffin) of Philip II.

It was made entirely of 24 carat gold sheets and weighs almost 8 kg.  Inside were the dead kings bones and this item is one of the most precious objects to have survived from the ancient world.

The knobs used to seal the casket indicate that it was designed to be opened and closed, so it seems that before it became a coffin it was used in the royal treasury.

Hanging above the larnax is a gold oak wreath which was found inside and it seems to have crowned the head of the deceased when his corpse was placed on the funeral pyre.

It is considerably damaged with several small leaves distorted and melted.  Other leaves and acorns broke and fell off and were found in the residues.  It has taken incredible skill to repair it to this stage.

It imitates branches of the oak, the sacred tree of Zeus.  It definitely was made by a highly skilled goldsmith.

Buried in the antechamber of Philip’s tomb was a young female aged about 22 years and it is presumed she was one of Philip’s wives – Meda, a Thracian princess that Philip married around 339 BC.

According to her traditions, the wives of men accompanied their spouse to the grave and she seems to have committed suicide.  Her remains were placed in a golden larnax, together with an exquisite wreath.  In following her husband into the flames of the funeral pyre, she became the king’s sole bed mate in Hades.

Tomb III is known as the Princes Tomb.  Alexander IV was killed when just a youth. His tomb resembles his grandfather’s but not as decorative.  At the back of the main chamber lay a cinerary urn (below left) containing the burnt bones of the young man.  Around the shoulder of the urn lay a wreath made of gold oak leaves.

There was also  a wooden couch with chryselephantine figures. Unfortunately due to the poor state it is not possible to reconstruct them.

One of these figures is above right – a gold wreathed Dionysus holding a torch in one hand while tenderly embracing his alluring female companion by the shoulder while Pan plays his pipes.

While not as glittery and eye catching as all the gold, a display of silver banquet vessels is on display.  Found in a heap close to the door of Philip’s tomb, they bear witness to the extravagance typical of this period.  Plates, cups, pans, dishes, pourers – can you image what it would be like to sit down to a meal served on this?

We have spent an incredible time in this complex – even though in some parts really dark as if I was in Hades and then moving into the golden light of the treasures.

Demetra is rounding up her charges – yes, even the grumpy flashers and as we enter into the light I take a deep breath and realise how privileged I have been to visit with Philip and his relatives.  Back on the bus and heading for Athens I get the time to look at my photos and imagine being back there.

It has been a long day and I do apologise for the long post – but now it is time to relax back at the hotel – grab some dinner from a local eatery – a wonderfully fresh ham, cheese and salad roll and get ready to pack again.

Tomorrow we head for Rhodes – – –