NAXOS – A temple with a really big gate
Wednesday – today the plan is to walk 20 minutes to the Temple of Apollo and see the magnificent Portara Gateway – but first a couple of photos of the hotel.
Below left is the walkway from the bottom of my stairs, through the archway and into the main area. Once through the arch the pool (below right) greets us with some happy water. I hope that it turns out hot today as I wouldn’t mind a nice cool swim after my travels.
It is a nice breakfast area – inside or outside – looking out over the pool.
The food is the usual but today there is potato cakes. As I plan to do a lot more walking – I decide to give them a try and they are delicious.
I have left my camera gear etc in the room so it’s up and down the 3 flights and away we go.
It is a nice leisurely stroll up the street – a bit hilly but not too bad. Lots of interesting little shops and cafes and also lots of car and bike hire places.
This is the town roundabout, rather quaint don’t you think?
The aromas coming from all the bakeries and cafes around here really get my senses going, but no time to stop as it is heating up and I still have a bit more walking to do.
Maybe on the way back later I will stop in or even get some food to go.
Now it’s time to head down the hill – at the bottom is the harbour and the walkway around to the Temple of Apollo and the Portara Gateway.
From Naxos Town Harbour, a causeway leads to the Palatia islet and the striking, unfinished Temple of Apollo with Naxos’ most famous landmark – the Portara Gateway. At the entrance to Naxos harbour, the Gateway comprises four marble parts weighing about 20 tons each.
Construction of the temple was initiated by the tyrant Lygdamis in the 6th century BC according to the specifications of the temples of Olympic Zeus in Athens and of the goddess Hera on Samos. It measured 59m in length and 28m in width, and its entrance was on the western side of Naxos –an unusual feature for an Ionian-style temple.
The monumental gate seen today, which led from the vestibule to the main part of the temple, lies amidst traces of its foundations and those of a peripheral colonnade that was never completed.
It is a climb to the gate but I take it slow – there is so much to look at – if it isn’t the harbour it is the temple ruins which are scattered all over the hill.
As you can see, there are not many people here. Maybe I am too early or maybe everyone is waiting for sunset which is supposed to be fabulous when seen through the gateway. My plan was to return at dusk but the path up is rather treacherous and I do not know what the lighting would be – I think I would have to bring my torch as I cannot see any lights. Never mind – I will enjoy the blue sky, the blue sea, the refreshing breeze, the smell of the salt air and the scattered white marbles.
I should imagine that this temple would have maybe reflected somewhat the Temple of Poseidon at Sounion which is also standing on the top of a hill. Fortunately that one is still standing; unfortunately this one is not.
Actually when you come down to it – there really isn’t much to see, there is only the Gateway which is magnificent but it still gets the imagination going trying to work out what part of the temple is what. After wandering around for quite some time – doing about five laps of the complex – stopping every now and again to take in the sea air and think how wonderful it is here – it is time to descend back into mortality –
It looks a long walk doesn’t it, but rest assured it is refreshing being able to stop every now and again and just relax near the sea.
I love being near the sea, but I guess I have told you that before. To walk on the sand, maybe have a little paddle or two – ah – this is the life.
I would love to go for a swim but I don’t know what the currents are like and last thing I need is to be taken out to meet Poseidon so paddles it has to be.
Getting a bit hungry so I suss out the eateries along the way back through the town. I have plenty of time so just wander looking at the menus but nothing seems to take my fancy until I spy a bakery right on the corner.
The smells and the sights are amazing so in I go – and what a decision to make. Freshly baked baklava – pastries just oozing sweetness and sugar shock – and on the other side – Naxos Bakery bread and rolls with healthy fillings. Do you like the look of this pastry? Filo pastry filled with custard and almond cream, honey dripping all over the place – definitely not on the weight watchers diet!
OK – time to stock up and then head back to the hotel – walk up three flights of stairs – enjoy my feast and then a sleep. I doubt if I will be moving again today.
More discovery of Naxos tomorrow – –