NEWPORT RHODE ISLAND – millionaires and their mansions 

Friday – Today we are going to Newport Rhode Island to visit the humble housings of the rich and famous of former times.  Vanderbilts, Oelrichs and Wetmore – the last two being not so familiar names but wealthy just the same and really who needs to be known if you have truck loads of money.

Today the weather forecast is gale force winds (great) and rain.  OK – so what has happened to our lovely Autumn skies?  But ever the adventurous threesome – we press on to the car park to collect our little friend and soon we are on the road.

Mmmmmm – the weather is not so bad so far although every now and again a gust of wind hits us and leaves start to blow all over the place.  Still just the occasional sprinkle is acceptable and the countryside is still lovely and anyway we are looking forward to a bit of opulence in our lives as stated above – the mansions or Summer houses of the rich and famous.  Not the same as the rich, tawdry, and no class famous of today – but rich, classy and famous of a more genteel time.

We arrive in Newport – and this sign greets us (see below left) – they are so helpful in aiding us to find the mansions! Driving through the quaint town we arrive at our first stop – The Breakers.  We have a pass that gives us access to the four mansions we want to see – so off we go.

The Breakers is the largest and most magnificent of the Newport Summer house mansions. It was built by Cornelius Vanderbilt in 1893 and has over 65,000 sq feet of indoor space along with a 13 acre lawn overlooking the Atlantic Ocean.

Our first view of this Summer cottage – jaw dropping.

I am beginning to think that there is more to this Summer Cottage than meets the eye.  A special parking area not too far from the house and then a glorious walk up the drive that makes the most fabulous impression.

Arriving at the front door – there are signs – No Photography allowed inside. Oh Bummer.  But I suppose that between everyone flashing around you could not enjoy the mansion to its full capacity.  Anyway, I can always buy a book if needed.

Walking through the grandiose doors we are given Audio Tour Guides that are great.  We can walk around at our own pace and linger longer if the moment requires.  First stop – the majestic entrance way – the Great Hall.  Marble walls and floors, statues, chandeliers and grand staircases all assault the senses and  do not know where to concentrate first.  Really it is a nuisance not being able to take the occasional snap – that way I could snap and then look up the information when I get back home and more fully appreciate the surroundings. But never mind on I go.

I have scavenged some photos from the web – this will give you an idea of what is inside –

The photo on the left is the Great Hall – the main reception area when you first walk through the door.  How impressive is that? Most impressive.  The photo on the right is, of course, one of the bedrooms.  Not overly furnished but tasteful and extremely large.

We move through the house looking at servants quarters and the kitchens with their immaculately polished copper pots.  Of course when it is time to exit – we get a chance to visit the Breakers Loos and then the typical exit through the gift shop.  Some beautiful momentos on sale but out of my budget so it is the usual fridge magnets and post cards.

Stepping outside the wind has picked up and not forgetting we are right on the ocean – the waves are crashing.  Out come the cameras after their lengthy rest and it is Kodak moment time.  We walk around to the back of the house that faces the ocean and there is a huge, mega huge lawn.

Can you image just running and playing on this area?  Summer picnics under huge canopies, being served chilled champagne and chicken by liveried servants – yes, I am digressing AGAIN.  But you have to admit – it is a wonderful thought!

It is very windy  – that’s a bit of an understatement – it is blowing a gale!  Still, I love the ocean when it is being whipped up and the wind and salt air is blowing on my face – so refreshing.

My companions have had enough fresh air so it is back to the house to look at the Attrium where we can take photos.  Of course – opulent like everything else – if you look in the above photo of the back of the house – it is situated on the bottom floor behind the three arches in the middle.

This concludes our visit to Mr Vanderbilt’s The Breakers.  Time to move on to Mansion #2 Marble House.

Another little cottage built by the family of Vanderbilts, Marble House was built as a summer “cottage” retreat between 1888 and 1892 for Alva and William Vanderbilt.  (I should have such a cottage!) It was also a social landmark that helped spark the transformation of Newport from a relatively relaxed Summer colony of wooden houses to the now legendary resort of opulent stone palaces. The fifty-room mansion required a staff of 36 servants, including butlers, maids, coachmen, and footmen. The mansion cost $11 million ($260,000,000 in 2009 dollars) of which $7 million was spent on 500,000 cubic feet (14,000 m³) of marble.  They certainly didn’t skimp on manpower or marble!

Another walk up the drive to the main door – we are given audio sets and told, of course, no photos inside please.  So it is time to hit the web and find some photos for you –

How am I doing so far?  This is a more ‘let’s get as much gilt as we can in here’ mansion.  Very reminiscent of the luxury of Versailles but on a smaller scale – and in saying that, it was based on the Grand Trianon at Versailles, so there you go!

The idea of audio sets is great. You can walk around and listen to whatever you wish – even repeat it until you are satisfied.  Much better than listening to a guide drone on, although I must admit some guides I have experienced are great and full of enthusiasm, others are just drones.

Still blowing a gale we venture through the gale force winds and come across the back of Marble House (left) and the Chinese Tea Room (right).

Alva Vanderbilt Belmont commissioned the construction of a Chinese Tea House at the back of the Marble House property in 1912. She celebrated its opening on July 25, 1914 in conjunction with a lavish Chinese costume ball at Marble House. It also provided a backdrop for political rallies and teas to raise funds for the “Votes for Women” campaign. Sadly, when the U.S. entered World War I in 1917, Alva closed Marble House and the Tea House and never reopened them.

This is the view from the back of the house.  The bay is called Sheep Point Cove (don’t ask me why) and as you can see there are loads of magnificent mansions along the Cliff Walk.  Our third mansion for the day is Rosecliff.

Marble House is the furthest on the point that we will go so now we have a short drive back towards The Breakers.  Rosecliff is a rather more stoic mansion.  Commissioned by Nevada silver heiress Theresa Fair Oelrichs in 1899, architect Stanford White modeled Rosecliff after the Grand Trianon, the garden retreat of French kings at Versailles.

After the house was completed in 1902, at a reported cost of $2.5 million, Mrs. Oelrichs hosted fabulous entertainments here, including a fairy tale dinner and a party featuring famed magician Harry Houdini.

At the back of the house is a magnificent garden which includes this wonderful area.  Not being seen today in its magnificence due to the rain – I can imagine the Summer and Spring parties held here.

Unfortunately we did not get an invitation to dine in splendour at any of these mansions so it is time to return our headset and head off to Newport for lunch.  Not much is open due to the old cliche ‘end of season’ but we head to the wharf area in search of more seafood. The Lobster companies are closed so we have to settle for a place called ‘The Black Pearl’.

A small establishment on the edge of the docks – it is a haven out of the cold and wet. The outside dining area is all closed (of course, who wants to sit in the weather?) so we venture inside where on first impression it is rather crowded.  We are shown to our table in The tavern – rather cramped – but it is OK.  Full of a sea-faring atmosphere and I don’t mind the smell of the sea close by.

I order Clam Chowder and then Swordfish Steak (pictured – yes it is served on a bread roll – don’t ask me why) and then being a really big pig – for dessert Key Lime Pie.  The customary glass of wine completes the lunch and needless to say we are now full to the brim.  The place is really, really crowded so it is time we head off on another adventure.

Our last mansion for the day is Chateau-Sur-Mer. Looks a bit like the Addams Family house to me but I am sure that the inside will not be so frightening. Let’s just hope that Lurch doesn’t open the door!

Chateau-sur-Mer is a landmark of High Victorian architecture, furniture, wallpapers, ceramics and stenciling. It was the most palatial residence in Newport from its completion in 1852 until the appearance of the Vanderbilt houses in the 1890s.

There are no head-sets here and we are not able to wander around – there is a guide who has one of those ‘drone’ voices and she does not seem to want to make things interesting to anyone who doesn’t know anything about the place.  I loose interest very quickly and just wander aimlessly through which is a shame because I am sure that it would be very interesting if she could capture our attention, and on that note it is time to head back to Boston.

The rain has stopped – still windy and overcast and the drive back is tolerable.  Loads of traffic – but we arrive back in one piece and get ready for tomorrow’s little jaunt – to the JFK Memorial Library.

Highlight of the day : The Breakers and all that money!